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It seems that red 2x is all one piece but there is a force power spider available.

That's messed up. How come the spider comes up in some places but doesn't seem very common?

https://www.cyclepowermeters.com/quarq-power-meter-spider-red-force-axs-d1-107bcd.html?utm_source=google_shopping&m=simple_associated&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2NyFBhDoARIsAMtHtZ4rOk94ZQuhYLGUBnTCr-0xOGYc94_vqIJTamoMjD-jfN1dgg052tAaAtkiEALw_wcB

Is it possible to buy the SRAM Red AXS power meter spider only without the rings?

What is a good third party axle? I've yet to come across something that I really like.

Brand X with the lever is my current favoured budget option. It also has a large 8mm on the thread size so 3 options to remove. I don't like their non lever ones though.

@hippy combination of failure to grease, soft aluminium and heavy washing. The Tripster axles are actually good but haven't been able to find them in MTB sizes. Rondo & Xfusion axles are also particularly bad designs.

Actually having a lot of success removing these in the shop right now. Quality drill bits (presto), a pedestal drill and a secure fork/frame jig. Drilling the threaded sided of the axle in 0.5mm steps up to 0.5mm less than axle thickness. Few days of plus gas soaking and an eze out does the trick. Have done 4 this month.

Only kicker at the minute is my favoured replacement thru axle is out of stock everywhere and I often have to replace with a SRAM maxle or brandx.

They shouldn't 'pop off' but it is removable and should move a little freely.

No fluid flows through the lever from the cup/syringe even with the hoses all disconnected.

The fluid starts to seep from below the reservoir cover as I gradually loosen it off.

Bleeding a Shimano st-rs785 and finding the fluid blocking and building up at the reservoir (part in red in below image).

Had the same issue with the left one and it was solved with a gravity bleed but the right one just won't play ball.

The metal cover is held in place with two small flathead screws and has a rubber seal below that seems to create the blockage.

Anyone got any advice?

Bleeding a Shimano st-rs785 and finding the fluid blocking and building up at the reservoir (part in red in below image).

Had the same issue with the left one and it was solved with a gravity bleed but the right one just won't play ball.

The metal cover is held in place with two small flathead screws and has a rubber seal below that seems to create the blockage.

Anyone got any advice?

Turns out there is two positions for the wheel to mount and an appropriate bracket. Wheel was in the low position with the high bracket.

Can't say I get many frames through the door with it but have had puzzled customers in the past who try and do their own work and are miffed when I mention the B2 link. Sounds more like a tunnel for commuters.

Is the frame direct mount or are you using the b-link that comes attached to the derailleur?

I'm going to test that tomorrow but still doesn't feel right especially when the adaptors have 160/180 on them. Customer has been riding like this for 2 years and always knew something wasn't right but 2 other shops never bothered investigating.

Am I missing something simple here? It's a kickback cross max scooter. Came like this out of the box to the customer. Have tried a few different adapters with no success. Pads not engaging fully with the rotor.

Bottom bracket service would be my first port of call on BB30.

As @snottyotter said main culprit is too much cable tension.

That's a lot of bike for the money. Good luck

We had a mortgage approved pending all our documents checked out to what we had stated.

Halifax then pulled the mortgage and have refused to tell us why.

Is there any legal requirement for them to give a legitimate reason? Or even a courtesy to let us know what we fell down on?

Looks like the spindle has moved or is very short on the drive side.

I've huge regrets for not 'purpling' my neon yellow Tripster.

Can't sleep at night since. Hence the late reply.

Sounds like you may have maxed out on the micro adjust in the outboard direction.

If not then a simple answer is to plug into etube and reprogramme the rear derailleur. Pretty sure you can still do this with your charging cable.

Having a problem with bleeding the above lever. Fluid flows no problem from caliper syringe to lever cup during the bleed.

However I get no 'pressure' when I pull the lever and maximum travel.

When I remove the reservoir cover the fluid quickly seeps out as if there is a build up of pressure in that area.

Lever blockage or a busted seal?

Arm as far from the caliper body as possible is what I had best results with.

Had problems with my own recently and below is the bleed procedure I got from UK distributor. Recently upgraded to the 4 pot gt-f and they have been flawless.

Universal bleed kit with port adapters to fit caliper.
Shimano bleed block
Mineral oil.

Take out pads and clean caliper.
Fill one syringe full and attach both to bleed port.
Place bleed block between pistons. Pass mineral oil from one syringe to other.
Operate actuating arm.
Once you are happy no air in caliper press down on both syringes to push pistons out to meet the bleed block.
Remove syringes and replace bleed screws.