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Solid choice! They were surprisingly popular during the 90's dual sport movement. Way more reliable and better against corrosion (engine casings and frame) than the 2000> models, and the fork dropouts don't snap off like basically every one of the 2000's models have by now or folk are terrified of them snapping. However the injection system on the newer ones is stop, heard of folk retro fitting onto the OG just for fun. Loads of project bikes and information on the US forums.

You got an actual funduro, later on they made a funduro and a stelvio (?) one which had smaller front wheel and slightly different fairings. I've got that type with the sticky out plastic indiciators that break off every time you drop it or ride past a bush.

Mine has done massive mileage, at least 60k, 35K+ under me, and plenty under about 20 different previous owners. Make an excellent B road and C road with gravel all over the place, type of touring bike, strap some luggage or panniers on and your good. Change the bars for something more modern and you can get a reasonable standing position, but these 90's dual sport 'style' bikes ride better sat down if i'm honest, pegs are in the wrong place for standing unless you make drastic seat, riser and bar changes.

Seat IS too damn low. I dunno if they were all sold with the low seat in the UK, but damn peg to ass heigh is short, your knee's are like nearly 90 degree's the whole time. Mine was recovered already, un did some staples and fired a 30mm thick wedge of firm memory foam across the ass pad, comfier and reduced knee angle just enough. However a proper new bit of foam with much much less ass indent, and so to increase ass to peg height would help massively in the dynamic of the bike.

Stock gearing is too steep for anything off-road apart from fire roads, 1st it won't putter along at idle usefully and 2nd is too high.

Rear shock, often the hydraulic preload ring is leaking or has lost its prime. So half of the rotations your putting into the master knob, isn't affecting the slave ring. Easy enough to take off, bleed using shimano mineral oil or citroen LHM fluid you can get it basically perfect with zero fancy tools, just with a bit of clever topping off of oil and holding the different parts of it in the right orientation to bleed air. Front and rear suspension is too soft for off road unless you weigh 40 kg, but fine for aformentioned puttering about.

You can raise the ride heigh by swapping in a Dakar shock off the newer model. Theres a few versions, I got the longest one with resivoir + hydro preload and it fits with some air box modification and a tiny bit of grinding on the frame. However centre stand will be useless (won't touch ground, and then also fowls chain and swingarm's new reach) and side stand will be too short, coupled with a firmer spring in front it makes it WAY WAY nicer to ride off road (except geometry of rider is still all wrong) and on road the damping is so much better controlled feels 20 years newer in the ass.

Screen. This bike aerodynamically is a pig. It looks smooth and aero at the front and maybe a taller, wider, or some kind of amazing screen might make it more tolerable above 35 mph right? Wrong. Spent fecking years whilst riding as a courier to make this bike not buffet your head above 35 mph. Yes 35 mph this thing just whacks you in the head with popping tupperware boxes all the time.. Tried various screens, only one that worked I think was a Givi or a UK made one? Then cut some holes in it low down and fiddled with the angle massively, added winglets and two devices inside the fork tunnel. Its now bareable at 60 mph for about an hour, anything higher than that and its just torture to be honest. ABS plastic winglets along sides of tank and along sides of below the screen made the most difference, but still never perfect. I never buy bikes unless I can actually test ride them, have laughed at several folk who don't allow test rides (new bike dealers included!!!) as cannot fathom how folk can make a purchase not knowing if its even tolerable to ride the bike at normal speeds.

Even tried no screen, not even the speedo cover. Nope. Like someone blitzing you with anti aircraft flak all around your head. Nope not my helmet, tried several folks helmets, same turbulance, differing levels of noise transmitted to ears.

Becoming a scooter guy now, big burgman with monster screen all the way

Welcome to the club. Now to complete your entry you need to load as much s*** as possible into it and ride around being sure to take photos in-front of a decent coffee or pastry place, bonus point for children or dogs (Don't have to be yours, can just find some of the street) burried underneath the stuff.

For the box, just sand it and varnish or wax it, paint it if you want but will likely flake off unless you have high level prep skills. Or keep as is, like a form of anti theft ;)

Enviolo system is a good idea but the shifter tends to destroy cables very quickly. They aren't hard to adjust correctly but I think from factory (UA) they are left a bit loose so the cables can get some air time as the shifter is turned = seems to fray the cables at the heads really quickly, like within 2 months of family use quickly.

Latest HDD ultra X cargo beefy boy version of the Enviolo is hopefully more rugged than previous versions, though if you are a mechanically sympathetic person and use the full range without just leaving it in one spot the whole time you will not encounter as many problems. Its partly due to most bikes that have the Enviolo hub fitted are family use or courier use and get blasted. Latest version is hopefully the ideal though, always going to be saggy and mushy feeling.

I worked briefly with a guy who was making a different version of an infinite IGH, cool idea, very cool design, but only moderately efficient in the mid range like many others, as you get outwards from direct drive the efficiency was basically unsuitable for manual bike use, mid drive or hybrid hub direct drive would have been ideal, but still lossy. From an engineering perspective though would have certainly been harder wearing than Enviolo's hubs, but more expensive than a Rohloff, hence never made it to market.

Almost everything from Adventure, Ridgeback and Genesis is catalogue bike or just nothing special.

The hub motors are the suntour ones? They are pretty good, probably the most torque, or at least feels like it with low loads of any hub motor I've tried (carrera/halfords brands use them aswell).

Some of the ridgeback et al brands use the Italian "sport drive" mid drive, which is pretty good, on par with the average Brose units that you see on equivalent European local branded catalogue bikes.

Brose aren't all good though, their biggest baddest '100nm' or 110nm (?) cargo performance top daddy motor launched in about 2022 is very quiet compared to almost all other mid drives due to the belt arrangement. But does not have 100nm+ of torque, no way. Tested back to back with my now old shimano e8000 and newer e6100, Bosch cargo on a nice hill with bags of aggregate.

The e8000 certainly has the most mid range kick and then allows you to rev out to over 100 rpm with stable assistance, 120 rpm its basically zero. E6100 is OK but kinda flat feeling. Bosch activ line is less, performance is similar to e6100 and just feels flat on a cargo. CX Cargo line has probably the most actual torque down low, so would suit folk who grind and start off in the wrong gear, but if your a keen rider and cadence is up above 85 rpm it gives much less at the top end, pretty quiet though and reliable enough, had a few failures but always within the first month of use, if they get past that point they are all still out there doing their thing haven't come back!

BTW anyone fancy SE Asia, very much recommend Vietnam. Covered approx 14,000 km of Hanoi, north west, central and south regions, plus a healthy loop of Cambodia into the actual arse belonging to nowhere.

Some of the best riding roads anywhere in the world, surfaces when they are good, are best of european quality good. Sure other drivers are lunatics, but your all riders, you get used to everyone around you being a problem so not too much of an adjustment TBH. Some of the good bits require hours of slogging through about the worst "roads" you've ever seen, forests, jungles, truck roads to nowhere, with nothing on them because road is so totally obliterated (new one will route around the bad bits, but then miss out the absolute gems) and then, you have 20 - 40 km worth of just unreal riding with absolutely nothing else on it. Too hot for half the year in the north, and 10/12 of the year in south central and south south.

Cambodia for me was 39-44c for 10 days straight, minimum night time temp was around 32-36 if you were lucky, big heat wave unfortunately killed and hospitalized a lot of folk out here the last month or so.

No need for big bikes TBH, tried a few and for the few times when having more than 30 hp is nice, outweighed by the rest of the time it feeling like your trying to thread a HGV through a bustling market street. And when police clock its a heavy motorcycle, the potential for fines go up as most heavy motorcycles are large % more than they are in the UK, so you must be loaded = more coffee money for them.

Ideal bikes? Get a maxi scooter and put some decent tyres and screen on it. PCX + many mods = fastest thing on most roads most of the time and all day comfort, 350-400km on 5 quid of fuel. Needs double the power to be perfect scooter IMO. Nmax, Tmax, NVX, Forza 300 are all also ideal. Suzuki were never popular here so no big burgmans to be found.
Honda Winner/Winner X 150 or 160cc, or Yamaha Exciter 155/ 155GP are the daddies here. 16 hp water cooled, 6 speed, nissin brakes, decent tyres like michelin pilot 2 or pirelli diablo rosso fit, again some suspension mods, air box mod, exhaust and remap and you've got maybe 18 hp, but way more torque. Lightweight, frame is stiff enough if you weigh under 80 kg, skinny and fits through traffic easily, handling is pretty neutral on both and because they weigh so little you can get away with so much on them.

Heavy motorcycles if your on a line, close to limit of grip or ability and you have oncoming wanker in an SUV or truck, your done. The small skinny bikes on decent tyres, always got the option of just dipping right in and hoping for the best.

VF750 and VFR800 inc most of the more recent vtec ones (?) suffer from suspension being way too soft unless you weigh 55 kg. I think its the reason so many folk are put off them, underwhelmed by a ride on one.
Gold or YSS cartridge emulator in the front + correct spring.
Correct spring and rebuild of rear stock showa with a little more compression damping. Totally transforms from soggy tourer with weird geometry (because bike is sagged too far in the front and/or rear) and crashy front end into something genuinely brilliant at doing most things for most people.

Seen those rabaconda's in action, makes an utterly miserable task mildly tolerable.

Get a decent penetrating oil, Kroil is my go to, expensive in the UK but pays for itself in the first quarter of a can every time. Oil, tap, days, oil, tap, days. Don't even bother trying to move it the first few days. The more valuable the item, the longer you leave it.
Get geodore or knipex pump pliers the really good grabby ones, again, pricey but pay for themself within the first few uses tbh. Wiggle back and forth the smallest amount, often for an item that failed during loosening, you actually want to tighten it first, get the threads pushing the other way on the fastner. Can use heat, but wouldn't in that situation.

Welding a bolt on the end, MIG if your good, TIG would be better, more control and less heat. Want the absolute smallest amount of heat pumped into that tiny alloy fitting in the fork.

Good shout, make sure to screenshot or download the page and all the details then reupload in stolen thread. Ebay takes them down once reported or taken back down by 'seller'.

Normal bike theft is a really low blow, rad dad wagon cargo bike theft is sick. Currently in Vietnam and theft here basically just does not happen, if it does happen, and police are stirred into motion (especially if something stolen from a foreigner), things happen, quickly and harshly*

*Not going into an argument of punishment practices. Proof is you can live your life without the continuous threat of loosing your transport at any given moment. Loads of old guys here with museum grade 50's to 80's French and Belgium origin randonneaur, touring and city bikes, none of them have had a bike stolen in their life span, and these guys are OLD, reduction in theft or attack related anxiety and stress probably a contributor to them reaching a mighty age.

Thats a really unfortunate amount of damage for a little drop and catch something on the way down kind of a deal. I think we've all had an injury (maybe not that bad!) thats caught us off guard and been a right PITA from something really mundane like stepping on lego and rolling an ankle fully.
Hope it doesn't get him down, 3 months is a lengthy recovery.
Did an ankle twice racing MTB's as a teenager, second time I very much broke it, pins metal work and then metal work back out. Honestly after 18 months it really has never bothered me again. The other ankle and knee though, I guess I walk weird or asymmetric as the other side is a bag of spanners compared to the bolted back together one!

He's probably got a bunch of stuff to do, but get him onto learning a new language or something that'll soak up 3 months of time being on the recovery into a positive new thing*

*or endlessly shop for bike parts and spanner away in the front room :D

This sort of stuff is why I'm maybe trying to avoid myself getting into dirt riding in Vietnam. No ambulance here really at all, air ambulance ha, no way, language barrier alone is enough to make even a bust ankle or wrist in a not even that remote location into a major event.

The most dangerous thing here is.....

1) older women on beige coloured Honda Leads, they ride with hood up, horse blinkers on, pull out directly into any traffic, whether its 20-30 kmh city traffic, or 100 kmh highway traffic directly infront of anything you can imagine. They just expect that everyone will avoid them.

2) Guys who have bought or lease SUV or pickup truck recently. Unbelievable overtakes and head on murderous intent kind of driving. Uniquely only new SUV and pickup truck, you know the exact kind of people, they exist in the west, but they exist here too, only their driving skill is even smaller than the content of their pants.

If I'm ever hit out here, it will be due to someone from category 1 or 2. Imagine your on a large A road, huge, wider than any normal single carriageway in the UK. Broad daylight. COming the other way is a bunch of bikes in the hard shoulder, a regular truck, bus or car in the opposite lane doing nothing wrong. Around that comes 1 or 2 new SUV or pickup truck, fully taking the entire road infront of you, literally right up to the barrier. I've twice now considered going for the gap BETWEEN oncoming vehicles as there is basically NO gap between ongoing SUV small prick and barrier.

Even worse, they don't get on with it when overtaking. Numerous times when been behind a truck and an SUV, SUV goes for the overtake, and I'm behind the SUV doing only 30 to 50 kph, image my surprise when instead of getting out of 4th gear into something sensible to get on with the overtake quickly, expose his entire family and every other road user to the least time in danger as possible yeah?
No.
Chooses 6th gear, car either nearly or does infact stall, ran into the back of two brand new SUV (toyota fortune is the worst offender) as they've stalled by changing into a ridiculous gear. Someone must have told them along the lines of '6th gear is for going fast', and not how a car actually works? Seen it enough times in just a few weeks to see its a large scale problem.

Traffic police here are a force to be feared, stun guns, batons and incredibly small man syndrome issues. Been stopped plenty, but every time so far for breathalizer, they either just pass me because 1) not been drinking 2) they see a white guy and don't want to have to deal with me. Should be have been done for mega speeding the other day, but nope, pulled over, guy was preparing to get really angry as I was going a bit quick (a road dualie in middle of nowhere), pulled mask up, saw I was a white guy and waved me on faster than my engine start stop could even knock off.
However Police do not really offer any real road policing, i.e. stopping the murderous intent SUV and pickup drivers from their daily chaos. Every single Vietnamese person fears traffic police for their out of the blue crazed baton wielding violence when you dare question their auth or tear AND new SUV/pickup driving pricks. All of them have dozens of stories of having to just ride completely off the side of the road and suck up the minor injuries and bike damage instead of the instant death the front of a Hilux would offer.

I'm not ashamed to say I now leave my rubbish water/pop bottles in a carrier bag hanging from centre of bars, when pickup/SUV prick goes the other way they get an empty bottle at the windscreen. This kind of person will only learn from financial pain. UK is infested with them too.

It was the mudguard! Annoying as I'd spotted it ages ago and asked numerous respected mechanics about it and their answer was all firm 'no this is not your problem'.

Repaired mudguard with araldite and some wire to enforce it. Mudguard is also the fork brace as its a short travel single crown scooter fork.

Fork and shock now feel basically bottomless, pretty good for 85mm travel. I knew it could be achieved despite most folk constantly saying 'just buy a CB500x' (the only big bike thats easy to buy new/used and is legit on paperwork), which of course has orifice tube dampers too.

Emulators are great. Change the oil weight for rebound, fiddle the compression adjuster for low speed compression adjustment, high speed is blown off by the weight of the spring/size of the holes in the metal piece. Wont' fiddle with it anymore, does now exactly what I want it to do which is make an under powered midi scooter tolerable for 8-14 hour days.

Its epic. Will be here a year total, option to extend to 3 years. Got some UK stuff to deal with at some point so can't be out here long term, but will be hard to go back. Place is just so much more social, people are happier, economy functions, food is great, drink is great, weather gets too hot for half the year, but you get used to being up at like 5am, then do an AC cafe snooze around middle of day like everyone else.

Bikes here are great, but none of the good ones are ever for sale. Most used car/bike dealers are epic level scammers, very hard to find decent bikes, cost isn't the issue, scammers charge same for junk as real sellers for decent bikes. Been trynig to find a decent super cub or dream 100 for months and keep getting on the receiving end of a scam or just shady junk over and over again. This is even with VN friends who can navigate their way around assholes and time wasters. Average joe here buys a bike new, and then rides to death, or in event of bike still working (old cup and dream) passes down the family. Normal people do not sell a bike that works hence why the market is so shady, your only ever buying crash damaged/rebuilt/chinese aliexpress chocolate engine rebuild specials/stolen/or just trashed bikes on the used markets. Its a different culture in terms of transportation.

Though private domestic cars are starting to become a massive problem. HCM is already chocked with car traffic, and GOV has spent 20 years demolishing ever more of the city to build more car infrastructure. Hanoi is going that way too, people buy cars, roads don't move, gov has to be seen to do something, so compo purchases the next swath of housing, flattens it and builds express way sized roads. Guess what, traffic still terrible.

There are a LOT of western dirt bike guys. Maybe buy a WR250 or KLX250 and go play in the dirt. But risk of injury higher, a bust wrist or collar bone etc = spring time is wasted.

Theres a thread I found on stromtrooper forum (Suzuki) thats a possible.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_32nl_FByU0

https://www.stromtrooper.com/threads/metallic-fork-rattling.433847/page-2?nested_view=1&sortby=oldest

PCX has a similar but more basic assembly. Outer chromed stanchion, but at the base there is a recess with a very thin metal guide washer held in by a smaller chromed piece of stanchion hydraulic pressed into place. Mine both rattle in all directions, but they did on the good used forks as well. I think their purpose is more to restrict the volume of oil that can attempt to blow past the damper rod (orifice tube type) at certain % of fork travel. I.e. as fork is bottoming out it restricts compression flow as the orifice tubes will have 'passed' by this slight restriction. And then when fork proper bottoms out the 'oil lock's' will receive into the bottom of the stanchions inner taper = oil is locked forming a hydraulic compression lock out = prevents total mechanical bottoming of the fork. Basic, but works for small size MC and scoot.

So could this be my issue? Only way to find out is buy new stanchions as they are not fixable like in the suzuki forum details. Or I'm barking up the wrong tree.

Always a struggle to find people who PROPERLY understand suspension in any country. Remember back in Scotland sending away my old bikes WP cartridges for service, they came back with just the worst noise and feeling over and over again, ended up totally loosing my shit with the guy. FINALLY found the issue. He'd mixed up one of the forks internal spacers with those from another fork that were just slightly shorter, so the damper cartridge had a tiny bit of play before being engaged. But you could only feel it when on the bike and being ridden, dyno and by hand revealed nothing. Guy was a respected suspension builder in northern England and had to basically scream and stomp my feet at him telling him he'd done it wrong until he finally REALLY looked at the fork again, and then, we found the problem, no apology obviously, was a simple mistake, but yeah, will never forget that ordeal.

Head bearings or fork.
Honda PCX. driving me insane. I'm over in Vietnam. Entire bike has been gone through multiple times (roads are much less potholed than UK BTW, hilariously so).
Head bearings, all of it, new by Honda, who have looked at it maybe 6 more times and keep saying its fine, its not the problem. BUT they refuse to actually take it apart and actually inspect. Get the feeling its like the crown race is not the right size, or is installed over the top of an old dust boot. On a road bike with old press in EC type cups, you get this exact sensation, no physical movement, perfectly smooth, never comes loose or needs adjusted, but you get this metallic rattle tappy tap on all uneven surfaces.

Fork, have upgraded with YSS PD emulator valve, as orifice tube damping was shite half a century ago and stock spring is too soft (average SE asian person is maybe 60 kg, i'm 85 + luggage + wife unit). Had it done by a suspension 'expert' who didn't drill out the old orifice compression holes so ride was like having a compression lock out on. Now rectified, but also have replaced lowers, bushs, glide rings, oil locks, seals again, tried various combo's of 'extra' washers between components like preload tube to spring, preload tube to top cap, spring to top of damper rod etc. Noise is still exactly same.
Fork performs now like a boss. Only 80 mm of travel, but sag is correct, damping is sublime for a scooter. Reasonable gravel roads are now 70 kph instead of 30 kph being basically out of control and unbearable.
Rear shocks put RCB VD+ which are preload, rebound and compression (slow speed compression adjustable only I suspect by feel) and have brought the rear end under really good control (for a scooter which has about as much unsprung mass as is possible with an entire engine, drive, cvt and assembly hanging off it).

But the noise is stll there. Have dismantled entire front of bike, all plastics off, riddden around, still there. Wrapped up ECU and other modules with old inner tube so that its impossible to make a sound. Still there. Did the same to fuel tank and just about anything else that was possible and stll the same. Cannot make the noise stationary, only when riding 5 kph +hippy

Noise is metallic, can feel it through frame and handlebars. Bike wonders at low speed 0 - 10 kph as if front wheel is going off line. Compared to a new PCX it feels fine for higher speed handling (30 kph+), but the low speed its twitchy and nervous. No brinnaling in head bearings detectable under any condition.
Changed the wheel bearings and spacer tube incase it was worn or incorrect.
Swapped parts with other used bike known good. Both wheels/tyre combo. Axles. Rear shocks. Entire fork legs from a bike that was not making the sound (damping and spring rate awful, but noise the same).
SO I'm very confident its not the fork legs. Only thing it leaves is new head bearings installed wrong or incorrect part. Dimension issue with crown race (should be whacked on there, could be loose or wrong part?). Or the axle to bearing reducers (little alloy top hats), feel fine, and if the axle is tight they surely cannot move, but maybe they can? Or actual fork crown/steerer tube has some kind of bizarre issue*

*Rock shox 2011-2014 basically all those forks are in the bin by 2017 as the steerer tube was swaged into the crown in the wrong dimension or tolerance or machine was worn = this comes loose and makes an annoying creak crack sound.

So yeah, driving me nuts. Lots of mechanics out here, but 99% of them are like 'well it feels smooth, and the bike rides OK, so what you complaining about?". Noise is loud enough a pedestrian can clearly hear it over engine and road noise if I ride past at like 10-50 kph.

Or someone is fucking with me and has put a bolt inside the frame and its just jangling away.

Glad I'm out of the cargo bike business for a bit (still got Omnium frames if anyone wants), market absolutely flooded with old, broken, 'as new', and auction disposal bikes.

Beware, the bike part will be fine. Nexus 5 is a crock of a hub, if you baby it you can sometimes make them last, but do you think paid per hour, working in all conditions couriers care for their venture capitalist owners hardware? No.
For around £2k they are very well priced still. Also beware shimano are now tight on motor warranty again, so if motor goes south, you'll be out for a new one, again, think about the usage of these.
Still would buy one, maybe actually get the cheapest most broken one you can find and then stick a motor + pinion kit from Bullittbike.de. For way less than a new one you can build and epic machine. Get it powder coated any way you like. I pay £90 for glass bead blast, undercoat and top colour in powders. SE/LDN price more like £200.

The UAV though, very much a suck it and see what happens. They are too heavy and cumbersome to be really useful, Fin who've bought Urb It over are going with a smaller narrower 4 wheel cargo and disposing of the UAV 4 wheelers. Frames and suspension arms are known to break for various reasons. Battered up graphics and side panels are part for the course with courier bikes, any of them will look like that within 2 months of use regardless so wouldn't' focus too much on that.

Yup. Happens sometimes! Especially with cheap ebay pads and salty conditions. Superstar components had a terrible reputation for it ten years ago or whenever they started. Changed mftr or process slightly and now you only get very rare fails. Usually gravity/uplift day bikes on DH tracks that are being cooked then splashed through deep puddles on the track.

IF it ever happens, just keep pumping the lever, brake will still function on the metal backing plate to a reasonable extent.

Ah interesting, a regular brought an babboe with strange handling into me last spring, frame was snapped clean through on one side near the kickstand. He bought it used, but had literally a few hundred miles on it from new, never heard what happened, but suspect he got a local metalworker to sleeve it and weld/brace it.
Saw another where it started to crack on the top tube infront of the seat-tube, just about 10mm away from the welded area (too much heat, or mismatched tubing types, a proper metal worker will know what type of defect that is). They got it repaired locally and been fine ever since. Big benefit of basic steel tubing, any bugger can fix it. That bike had probably 50k KM on it though, stored out doors, used every day, Glasgow roads so getting an absolute pounding in the big pot holes, dutch guy, very tall, automatically makes the rider 110kg or more and always in use, always with lots of stuff on board. So to be fair, he got his money's worth until the failure.

Thats rough! You'd think LDN was hard enough trying to keep a bike from being robbed, vandalised, knocked over by assholes, but now foxes are at it too?

A skillful vinyl seat repair place might get it into not so bad status if your trying to keep it as original as possible.

Loads of these in Thailand, starting to see them appear in Vietnam as the CT125 is still not officially sold through Honda HEAD dealer network, only importers which means (regardless of what they say when you buy it = ZERO WARRANTY and parts are through importers only, so your paying UK price for any part that isn't already on a Vietnamese Honda model already). Super cub is now finally on the official dealer sales portal, but they are quite pricey compared to other bikes, around £3k, so a tad more than an SH160i with ABS.

Yamaha are about to steal the market in them as the super cub equivalent and the PG-1 are now freely available and priced around 48 million VND which is about £1850, something like that. Just starting to see them arrive at dealers the last few weeks but some folk already got them and been modifying and adding all the accessories in the world to them.

Out in SE asia the CT125 or PG1 are pretty much IDEAL do all the things bikes. No traffic is that fast, 100kmh is basically impossible or stupid to ride that fast here. MC of all sizes are banned from the toll motorways (the only place with constant concrete barriers to keep poppers (folk who just do not look and ride perpendicularly directly in-front of you, regardless of your speed or size of vehicle), so anywhere you ride, you must be prepared for someone to just pop out directly in-front of you at all times. Been here nearly 3 months and already seen a few serious casualties and unfortunately 2 instant fatalities due to this behavior.

Back on topic, some bike thats low to the ground, upright, super comfy armchair like seat (because doing 300 km in a day is a 12 riding hour + task), got suspension, easily to modify, good on fuel (if its slow it might as well be efficient right?) and you can easily attach a bunch of luggage to without dropping £600 at the kriega shop. And good off road, or where the good tarmac road that you've been enjoying at 80 kmh for hours suddenly has holes into the centre of the earth (this is a UK thing too).

Seen reports of super cub and CT125 in the USA selling for near double msrp, and their msrp is higher than it is here by a good chunk despite the (current) still requirement to import almost individually and pay all the extra taxes and fee's (vs Honda HEAD import program from other ASEAN nations which basically waves all of that*).

I.E SH 125, 150, 160 are made in Vietnam so are cheapest in the world, but they only gain a few hundred USD being transferred and sold in Indonesia, Philippines, Malaysia and through legit Honda dealers so full warranty and parts support. And vice versa. UK used to be part of something like ASEAN, I think it was called the EU? Distant memory now....

Old 8 speed Nexus is solid enough given some care. The 7 speed nexus is awful, they regularly explode or just reduce to 3 selectable gears within days/weeks of being new on a brand new regular hybrid. Maybe some folk get good ones, but personally would be glad to never have to warranty another one.

Legend status Dad'wagon machine.

So so so many people just nay say Bullitts as the stock off the peg box and canopy isn't the size of an SUV back seat. Most of us are quite handy with the tools and relish the challenge of making something for our needs (why else are we on this obscure bike forum?). Goes for any cargo, buy the base bike, add and make things to your own needs for it, unless your utterly loaded in which case hire an unemployed industrial designer to sketch something up for you.

Well done Sir

benno boosts in the best colour. Only sold 1 in a colour that was not THAT blue!

This seems in direct contract to a lot you've said the last year or so promoting GSD? Or are you joking, kinda hard to tell from this end.

But to OP @Jackytwoshoes, GSD is not in reality any smaller footprint than a Douse, Bullitt, Load 60/70/80 or any of the others, talking a few centimeters here and there. Find a way to keep your existing cargo if you can I guess is simplest.

dragon scales