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1 -> That's precisely what I tried to do, I know the technique, but it wasn't doing anything to my stainless steel mudguards. Was wondering if it was because of the material (all the articles about re-radiusing mudguards talk about aluminum ones, whether from VO or Honjo), as I feel I put as much force as I could trying to spread the edges apart.

2 -> Mine have been terrible, they'd rattle loose if I didn't clean the eyelets before using loctite again (I assume that the residue from past application of loctite prevents the new one from sticking to the eyelet correctly). I don't remove mudguards too often, but it's happened enough times that it's an annoyance.

Hey Gravelers© !

I'm thinking about replacing my fork for one with better mounting points. The problem is that it has 50 mm rake, which severely limits my options. The Enve adventure fork would be the ideal replacement, but it's expensive as fuck. Fairlight Cempa 2.0 works too, but it's in the same price range (I live in France).

The requirements are as follow :

• around 50 mm rake and ~ 398 A-C
  
• mudguards eyelets close to the dropouts, no middle of the fork blade bullshit
  
• normal hole at the front of the crown, which ideally goes all the way through the fork crown
  
• TA 12 x 100
  
• 1-1/2" -> 1-1/8"
  
• flat mount brake mounts
  
• carbon or steel, with the caveat that I'll probably find all 1-1/2" -> 1-1/8" steel forks terrible looking unless they're segmented.
  
  

Optional but strongly recommended :

• Dynamo cable routing
  
• Three pack mounts
  
  

Any recommendations?

My mudguard troubles continue :

1°) Is it possible to slightly re-radius stainless steel mudguards? My Berthoud fender cracked at the seatstay due to poor installation on my end. I had put it under tension with the stays instead of re-radiusing it by pulling the edges outwards, as instructed by Weigle et al. (I was actually removing the fender to do so when I noticed it was already cracked).
I tried my hand at re-radiusing it after the fact, and it wouldn't budge. In your experience, is it something you can't do with stainless steel mudguards due to the ductility of steel? Wondering if I should buy aluminum mudguards next.

2°) The eyelets at the seatstay bridge and chainstay bridge are pointing towards the hub, like on fancy custom rando bikes. It's pretty, but as someone who periodically removes mudguards, it's also a pain in the ass, as I have to clean every eyelet with alcohol then slather every bolt with loctite everytime I put the fenders back on, to make sure the bolts don't rattle loose.
I'm thinking of having the holes drilled throughout, so I can put a nylstop nut instead of relying on loctite. Aesthetics aside, is it a bad idea?

See the pic below for a better idea, though I won't put a pretty wingnut.

I think M18 and other rando racks are inherently flexy. Mine was mounted on fork eyelets and it flexed all the same. If you intend to carry heavy-ish things, maybe take a look at Pelago's rasket? (cracking work on the raleigh btw)

Exactly what I was gonna write : unfortunately M18 have gotten stupid expensive, I bought one 3 years ago, sold it, and it has doubled in price since then :/

Bought a BLB front rack for half the price of an M18. It does the job just fine, though the finish is obv a bit worse than that of a Nitto. BLB specced some ridiculously short struts though, but they can be replaced by Tubus ones.

Mine reads like a bad short poem today (spoilers in the link).

Wordle 257 3/6

⬜⬜⬜🟩⬜
⬜⬜🟨🟩⬜
🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩

@amey, I might be interested if @MCamb isn't!

Linear inner tubes might be worth looking into?

Wordle 245 3/6

⬜⬜⬜⬜🟨
⬜⬜⬜⬜🟩
🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩

I must have been in tune with the cosmos tonight as I didn't know that word existed (not a native speaker).

Sorry about that, poor reading comprehension today...

I would buy that in a heartbeat if you shipped to France, perfect commuter, GLWS!

I've got an old Pentax K200D that won't turn on anymore, and a LumoPro LP180 flash that turns on, but overheats immediately, then shuts down. Both of those were lightly used (the Pentax was used heavily used during vacations, but that's around 10 weeks of use max, after that it mostly sat on a shelf; the LP180 flash fired at most a 100 times). The Pentax was bought somewhere in 2009 or so, the LP180 in 2016 or 2017, so they're both out of warranty I believe.

In your experience, is this the kind of issues that can be solved by a photography shop, or are they just good for the bin? Thanks!

In hindsight I kinda regretted not having one built into the rack, so a big thanks for letting me know this exists!

Had the exact same problem, except the hole for mine was underneath the fork crown. The bike manufacturer sold a 3D printed alumide bracket which I wasn't happy with. Got a friend to mill one from aluminum, a bit thicker than @Albb 's, but I wasn't too happy with it either (not sure I even tried it tbh, it needed some additional work with a file that I never took the time to do).

Very happy with my solution (not my work, got that done by a local framebuilder), which looks exactly like the one in your pictures :

I like it better than simply having a bracket, as having a third fixation point for the mudguard is super useful, and the wires run neatly inside the "rack". Haven't mounted my Edelux yet, still waiting for Son to restock on their coax cables unfortunately.

At this point my only hope is reprogramming my brain into thinking long bibs and helmets look cool.

By myself a Rick bomber and eytys blade boots with the proceeds
Look hot
Ride the big bike in them

My love for fashion is conflicting with my love for bikes. Right now the bikes are winning but I'm tired of looking like shit. I wanna look straight out of Rick's 2009 FW runway but be able to ride my bike more than 3 km in that, please enlighten me.

Is it time to make a spin-off of "stylish cycling kit"?

Aha maybe I should actually pair it with some Cosmics!

Missed your reply, thanks for the tips! I will definitely try adding leather washers between the mudguards and the frame when I get the chance.
I think I also need to re-radius them, they're too big for my tyres (50 mm Berthoud with 32 mm GP5000), so I pushed the mudguards in so they follow the tyre, which isn't good.

Regarding contact points, I've got a third mounting point on the front (custom rack for my Edelux) which has definitely helped.

I'll let everybody know what I did once I'm happy with the noise level :)

And once again thanks @motoko as well!

Thanks, that means I will probably have a local framebuilder drill through holes on the bridges so that I can use nylstop nuts instead of having to rely on loctite. A little less pretty but I don't want to have to use a q-tip and acetone each time I remove my mudguards.

@motoko : I've been looking for this article for a while, but I can't manage to find this issue in France (BQ 34 I believe?), and I don't think they're available online. Any chance you could tell me what JP Weigle recommends when it comes to leather washers? Does he put them between the mudguard and the bridge exclusively, or does he also put one under between the bolt and the mudguard?

I might try plumber tape to see how it fares!

I don't think the loctite (I'm using 243) or the threads are the problem, I keep reading that you're supposed to clean the threads when reapplying some. I'll try to find the one you mention, but that might be hard as I'm in mainland Europe.

Same problem no? Would have to reapply each time I put the mudguards back on, I think it gets shredded when you screw the bolt once.

This is probably hard to find in the wall of text, but I tried blue loctite and it isn't working.

I might have to clean the thread thoroughly with acetone each time I remove the bolt? Again, this isn't ideal, the plan is to be able to easily switch between endurance road bike with 700c wheels and fenders and 650b gravel bike without fenders, and I don't want to have to clean each eyelet with acetone everytime I do that.

I'm having a lot of thoughts about mudguards right now, let me share my anxieties all at once :

1°) Stainless steel mudguards noise :
I fitted Berthoud stainless steel mudguards on my bike (the ones that are epoxied black).
They look pretty, but they make very sketchy noises when the road is ever so slightly bumpy. I’m never sure if it’s coming from my steel bike or the mudguards, and I don’t need this kind of stress on rides. They aren’t mounted with any rubber washer, as I’m a little strapped for space in the rear triangle. They might also be under a bit of tension : they’re 50 mm and I’m running 32 mm tyres, so I have to push the rear part in quite a bit to have a nice fender line.

Is this noise unavoidable with stainless steel mudguards, even when mounted with rubber washers everywhere? This is not about stuff hitting the inside of the mudguards by the way, just the mudguard making lots of noise when vibrating. I’m considering moving to SKS longboards for this sole reason. I’m very happy with them on my commuter, they’ve been completely quiet so far.

2°) SKS Quick release :
Speaking of SKS, can their automatic stay release be used as a quick release, or is it solely a security feature made to be used once or twice ? I’m having thoughts about QR full coverage mudguards using fidlocks and the SKS stay release.

3°) Has anybody found a way to reliably prevent loosening of mudguards screws ?
My nice bike has vertical threaded eyelets at the chainstay bridge, the seatstay bridge and under the fork crown. Again, this looks nice, but I’m not a fan functionality wise. Through holes instead would be better and allow me to use nylstop nuts, which have been perfect for me in the past. For some reason, blue loctite isn’t working. I remove my mudguards periodically, maybe the threads are dirty and loctite isn’t sticking to anything ? Serrated washers have never worked for me. I have never tried wedge lock washers (would they work on plastic mudguards though?). I also have considered simply putting tape on the bolts, maybe that would prevent them from turning, and thus loosening ?

All suggestions are welcome !

4°) Attaching mudguards to seatstays :
I am looking for a way to attach fenders struts on the seatstays, as my bike currently has hidden eyelets on the inside of the seatstays, which are a pain in the ass. P-clamp are the obvious answer, but I’m looking for something which wouldn’t have to be removed when I remove the fenders. I considered using a Tubus clampset, which has two holes, but alas the smallest diameter they have is 14 mm, while the seatsays’ diameter is only 10 mm. Will I be able to bend them to fit nicely around my seatsays ?
I will eventually have eyelets brazed on the dropouts, as God intended, but in the meantime I’m looking for a temporary fix.

Thanks both for your help! I asked Hunt directly as @farewell suggested, they confirmed that what I have aren't the right adapters, I need a whole axle, basically. They also told me my wheels are Superdura V1, if anybody with the same problem stumbles upon this thread.

Thanks @hippy for the offer, but this is just a temporary replacement while the other wheel is getting fixed, it'll probably arrive too late (I'm in mainland Europe)! I've been riding the nice bike with a backpack, and it's been ok so far.

Broke too many spokes on the rear wheel of my commuter bike. While said wheel is being repaired, I'm trying to fit the Superdura wheel from the good bike on the commuter.

For that, I need to swap the Superdura from TA to QR. Problem is that I bought them second-hand, the seller included a bunch of doodads but no user manual, Hunt tutorials are kinda vague, and I'd like to know if I actually need to strip the hub completely to change the axle.

Here is what I'm working with :
Drive side

Non-drive side

And this is what I believe are the adapters?

The adapters fit on the end caps as is, but then the hub ends up being at least (totally eyeballing it here) 1 cm too large.

All I could find on Hunt's website was this video but it looks like none of the parts they're showing look remotely like my (alleged) adapters. Not sure if I have a v1 or v2 Superdura as well.

Any idea on how to proceed?