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Strong page!

Thanks for that perfect explanation. The trick is to not specify how you pulled the threads ;) In all seriousness I have no plans to use a rando rack atm but it's good to know!

I'm not sure what makes a fork rated for a front rack or not tbh, can the carbon experts chime in?
I'm not sure if the Fairlight one can take a front rack either, and their website is broken for me most of the time, so I can't check.

Spork, Enve Adventure, the one by Allygn (and I'm sure many others) are rated for a front rack, if you're so inclined. Seido also has this one, which is explicitely rated for a lowrider.

Better?

I hate that fork with a passion, sorry! It truly is a marvel of engineering, but I think it deserves a better rider than me!

In my quest for a 50 mm rake fork with fender mounts at the dropout, integrated dynamo routing and eyelets at the fork crown both front and back, I've stumbled upon Seido, a components company by Bombtrack. They make this fork which would be available at a local shop in two weeks, and seems to fit the bill perfectly.

It would cost me at least 200€ less than the Fairlight Cempa 2.0 I was about to order (and that's excluding shipping).

Is there any important difference I'm missing here?

It's been said before but incredible paint (and bike). That gold streak on the headtube is the icing on the cake.

The "external rim" doesn't spin, it's an internal one which does, which is why you can see a cut out around the brake pads.

Thank you both @moog and @Tijmen! I will continue handstitching my binding for now then.

I wish I could own one or two nice industrial machines, but unfortunately, as someone trying to work in academia, I'm bound to live in an apartment and to switch countries quite often, so that is out of the question for now. Having two bikes and the tools to maintain them is enough of a constraint already.

@Tijmen, I will probably PM you later about that foot :)

Thanks! I will see if I can find one locally (I live in France). Is the attachment system pretty generic or do I have to check compatibility with my machine?
And does it help maintain a consistent distance between the stitch and the border of the bias tape?

Didn't know Mack Workshop did videos, I will check them out! Most of the videos I can find on youtube don't deal with technical fabrics and so some techniques aren't super useful (no need to fold the ribbon I'm using onto itself for instance, unlike what seems to be common in "classical" sewing).

Trying my hand at sewing (bar a very poor attempt at a mini frame bag 2 years ago).

My first project is a phone + cash pouch. I'm trying to sew some fairly elastic ribbon (I believe it's this) on a curve. The prototype is in denim, but the final attempt will be done in VX21.

Below are attempts 1 to 4, as well as a more detailed picture of my fourth attempt. Sorry for choosing the worst colors possible, hopefully you'll still manage to see something.

The relative success of the fourth attempt was made possible by hand stitching the ribbon with a simple running stitch before using the sewing machine (a Brother CS-10).
However, I'm still a bit unhappy with the result : there is still a bit of "waviness" in the ribbon, and most importantly the stitching is all over the place, not uniformly following the curve of the ribbon (esp. on one side).

I think one possible improvement would be to lower the stitch length (I was using a 4 mm stitch length, when my machine can go down to a 2.5 mm I think) so that it's easier to follow the curve, but apart from that I'm a bit lost.
What is the proper technique to obtain a nice curve?

Very interested, PM-ing you :)

Holy fuck why am I broke. If the fork happens to be black I'd be interested in buying it or arranging a deal with whoever ends up buying the frameset.

Yeah I'm saying that, starting from the bottom of the bar, on the left side, the tape should go anticlockwise at first, then reverse direction (i.e. wrap clockwise, or "towards you") once you go past the brake lever. The reason is that in the drops your hands tend to rotate towards the outside, while on the tops they tend to rotate towards you.

If you've never had it unwrap the way you do it all is good, but I'm stating what's usually considered the canonical (i.e. posh) way to do it, as this seems to be the spirit of this thread ;)

Thanks for the late night ramblings, I'm also still here! I was scratching my head trying to figure out your first post, pictures help a lot.

I will give it a try next time I need to wrap some bars, alas I am noticing two things : it is definitely bulkier than my method, and the bartape on the tops seems to wind up in the wrong direction if I'm understanding your pictures correctly.

Hard disagree! Doing a figure 8 with 3 mm thick bar tape will look like shit. Up, over and around technique (which requires that little bit of tape) >>>>>>>>>>>

Personal pet peeves are stems which aren't parallel to the top tube (when using drop bars, with flats it's ~ fine), might start building a folder as well...

Dibs, will PM when I come back home in an hour or so :)

Edit : PMed

Alright! I'm a terrible photograph who basically doesn't know anything about photography. My method when travelling has always been to take thousands of pictures, which then results in around 30 nice-ish pictures, out of pure luck.
Thus, all suggestions are welcome, whether it is about photography itself, or post-treatment, as I never do any (don't know anything about it).
I'll try to post my pictures in chronological order over the course of several weeks, so hopefully you can see some progression.

Some memories from Ecuador first :

I would like to slowly get back into photography, and posting some of my older pictures on here would be a start.
Which website do you recommend using? Is flickr still good or do you just upload them directly on lfgss?

Metrea shifters come to mind if you ever want a more integrated solution, where you wouldn't have to give up the brakes when shifting.

edit : nevermind it seems to be hydraulic brakes only.

I'm very very tempted (had been since you mentioned you were selling it in another thread) but stack is like 2 cm too low for me and steerer seems to be cut very short. Somebody else please buy this before I do something stupid.

To use some aircraft terminology (that might make it even more confusing?) :

• tightening the two screws holding the loop causes it rotate around the "roll" axis, which makes the loop very dissymmetric : it goes towards the left of the bike, but also kind of deforms : the left side of the loop ends up higher than the right side.
  
• the loop can be rotated around the "yaw" axis using the central bolt, but this doesn't fix my problem :)
  
  

I'll try to take a picture whenever I take the chance.

Mine were kinda loose to begin with, I think. The loop rotates around the top tube actually (one side ends up higher than the other, basically), so unfortunately it's not something that can be compensated using the central bolt.

Amazing. I highly recommend zooming in to bask in every little detail : this is the bike of someone who knows what they're doing and dgaf, an inspiration.

Is the Bagman (QR Expedition in my case) supposed to be kinda shite? Mine goes waaay off center when I tighten the two screws that hold the steel loop.

Am I missing some insider knowledge on how you're supposed to set them up?