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I read some online discussions that digital vernier calipers using a larger CR2032 battery retain their power for longer.

However, some of the cheaper digital ones are only accurate to 0.2mm so I don't think that would be sufficient to measure seat-post diameters, which come in increments of 0.2mm. For example, a Moore & Wright Polycarbonate Digital Caliper retails at £23 with an accuracy of 0.2mm, while their IP54 Water Resistant Caliper costs £67 and has accuracy of 0.03mm.

They have an "off" button and they may even auto power off, but all that does is blank the screen. They're still tracking the position of the slider and that's what consumes most power.

For occasional home use, maybe I'll just to get the £20 from Screwfix and remove the battery between uses. I assume setting the zero position cannot be that much trouble.

These are very nice cranks, it's good to see a happy ending.

The problem with cheapo callipers is they're on all the time (even when "off") in order to keep track of their position, so the battery is always dead.

Do you mean the cheaper ones cannot be manually turned off when they are not being used, or just that they don't auto power down when left idle for a while?

Literally every 2 speed Brompton owner issues…

Yes, it is a shame they couldn't sort this out for the new range (e.g., fitting a super strong derailleur return spring with sealed bearings to its pivot), rather than just changing the names of the bikes :-(

mine after 1 weeks worth of winter commuting

My old commute, also (well maybe it would take a while longer to get like that). It's why I prefer the SA 3-speed hub, the two-speed derailleur is so exposed to grime in those conditions.

It sounds like you have pretty much exhausted the options. Maybe just fit the new rubber to the Zipp and move it to another model of pump, e.g., Lezyne?

Favourite ever is the original blue Zefal Plus double-shot track pump, but they are no longer available (though replacement plunger washers still can be bought new).

My current favourite is the SKS Rennkompressor with the EVA head, the only drawback being the choice of dial-face colours and fonts which make it harder to read from above.

[Edit: whoops, enthusiastically joining this zombie threat for appreciation of track pumps. ]

@hippy, other crack pipe heads include that by Silca, also the compact lever-type ones of Hirame from Japan and another from Silca might do.

BBC short video item `Plumber Martin Broer from Derby explains why he swapped his van for an electric cargo bike.':
https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/av/business-58929721

He's using an Urban Arrow e-cargo bike financed with the aid of a local council grant.

This happens a lot with bullitts unfortunately, it can be fixed with the gates dropouts that have a bulit in chain tensioner.

Those dropouts are neat.

This is my gripe with a lot of 645 cameras too, fine if you take mainly portrait photos I guess.

Yes, at least the 645 SLRs are the `right way round', but bulkier and awkward to use vertically without a pentaprism accessory viewfinder. The Pentax looks better than most in that respect.

If I was still using medium-format I would try and find a nice Mamiya 6 and get the rangefinder and lenses calibrated. For a one-lens system, I have fond memories of a Rolleiflex 2.8GX, which had a convenient built-in meter and great lens.

With moving subjects I think one really needs to zone focus with these cameras, and rely on depth of field. Though I have never tried the medium-format autofocus systems, I imagine they would be slow from that era.

Fuji GS645 is worth considering, does all except no electronics.

I had a GS645S with its 60mm lens when they first came out, and I can recommend it over the 75mm lens version as it is always available to take a photograph with no bellows to extend (and develop pinholes over time). It is a very compact and neat medium-format camera, but I never got used to the vertical rectangular format and having to rotate the camera 90 degrees it every time I wanted a horizontal photograph.

Has anyone got a right-hand (i.e., non-driveside) Karrimor Iberian rear pannier in red, nice condition, they would like to part with (or even a full set).

Somehow, I have ended up with two left ones which is okay for commuting with just one pannier but rubbish for touring with two!

Some inspiration for @nick_h. 's carbon rack/tent pole project. The Ti Parts Workshop Titanium / Carbon Rack for a Brompton, weight 135g:

Image source:
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/carriers-racks/ti-parts-workshop-titanium-carbon-rack-252mm

I'm using the 5 speed and the range allows me to ride up to about 30 (down a hill obvs). Very usable first 3 gears. 3rd has me going at 15 with a cadence of 70-75 which I find comfortable on an electric bike.

With hi-torque motors this would seem to be a way to go as the technology develops, i.e., fewer gears needed. I suppose two or three gears below the cut-off speed of 25kmh, when the motor assists, then closer spacing for optimal cadence with human power above that.

5 speed, ebike specific, will likely do the job ok.

That Shimano STEPS E-BIKE 5-speed hub has a range of 263% which looks useful and I guess it would also be a tough unit for non-electric bicycles. One drawback is that, according to the dealers' manual on their website, the inner unit needs to be removed and soaked in their maintenance oil every 2000km, which is more of a hassle than the Rohloff which just requires an oil change without disassembly every 5000km.

SKS is £21 at Tredz (plus an extra £5 off discount code applied)

I read review complaints that the early SKS ones did not update live when one operated the pressure release button -- the unit had to be removed and refitted each time to the valve. Apparently this has been changed for the current revision, but it is worth checking when it arrives.

The Toppeak D2 looked rather bulky in a video I saw, so I'll also take a closer look at the SKS gauge.

Anyone have any experience with Topeak D2?

The Topeak D2 looks good and takes commonly available CR2032 batteries, the same as most cycle computers. Have you tried/got one yet?

My old analogue gauge became obsolete when screw-in presta valves appeared, as it leaks air around the flattened sides of the valve insert.

The Clavicula is 104 BCD, so I suppose I'll be needing custom rings for the rest of my life.

There are plenty of alloy chainrings in 104 BCD so they look like a replacement option (e.g,. at SJS Cycles) -- you could just drill a lot of holes in the those for a drillium weight-saving finish.

It's in blue. Like a link.

So are all the other links. The "replied" one has the nice property of taking you to the latest post in the thread, which is why I suggested distinguishing it in some way.

Also, clicking on the thread title should take you to your last read position in the thread.

Not if one uses a browser without logging in, then it takes you to the beginning of time.

Usually I check the Today list of changed threads and I just would like to go straight to the latest message in a thread.

For a over year I was clicking on the thread title, then the highest page number and scrolling down, a three-step process every time to check the latest message. Then I discovered that by clicking on "replied" next to the posters name it went straight there. Perhaps the word "replied" could be in bold or a different colour, then it would hint at this special behaviour.

Thanks for the information about the tyres. It looks great, especially with drop handlebars, GLWS.

It looks like a longer mudguard clip would solve the problem, if the stay cannot be bent into shape.

It's a junior Lee Cooper track bike posing as a Steamroller

Ah, that explains it.

The purple, black and silver combination of frame and parts looks nice.

A mountain walker's favourite, I use the Buffalo pertex/pile mitts on my Brompton in snowy/sub zero conditions and I have been nice and warm. They are light, totally breathable and work in very damp weather:

Image source: https://www.meanandgreen.com/articles/product-review-buffalo-cold-weather-mitts.php