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This is why I didn't want to name the frame maker or the spray shop as wouldn't want to unnecessarily point the finger, especially in an open forum.

@hippy frame has been shot blasted by the spray shop working on the frame. It's hard because they are are well known spray shop so would like to assume the error wouldn't be their end but I guess no way to be sure.

@Howard don't happen to remember the refinishers from the previous post, would be interesting if it happened to be the same place.

Hey All,

Thanks for your input so far.

@hippy didn't see any rust in the bb shell etc when I disassembled the frame or have an difficulty removing parts etc.

@HousecatHST that's my opinion i've got an ancient Fuji i've commuted on for a lot longer and has been left locked outside in the rain for weeks on end that is seemingly fine.

In terms of the spray shop noticing it they said it was hard to see when it was the raw metal and only when there was the white for contrast was it visible which I kind of get.

@dubtap not really interested in naming until i've had a reply from the frame maker. Currently been chasing them for over a week and not had a reply as of yet.

@hippy currently it's been blasted and prepped for a respray with a base coat...That was when the paint shop spotted these holes.

Hey @hippy cheers for the quick reply... Should have mentioned the one by the dropout is for drainage (I think) and has always been there it's the those other almost like pin prick ones that are of concern and the ones that look like they're forming in the first image but not yet come through.

Hey All,

Looking for a bit of advice from the forum as am fairly stuck on next best steps on this one.

Bit of background, purchased a hand built steel frame in 2016 from a reputable frame maker. Have put around 3500 dry miles into it and the bike has always been stored inside. Frame was made with Columbus Zona tubing.

Was in the process of having the frame resprayed and the paint shop noticed small pin holes throughout the frame and welds which they think is the frame rusting all over from the inside and not worthwhile to repair as would involve essentially replacing all the tubes and relwelding.

Still awaiting a response from the original frame maker but in my opinion doesn't seem normal based on other steel frames i've had in the past.

Guess i'm after peoples opinions on.

• Is the frame ruined / repairable?
  
• Is it normal for a frame to corrode like this based on usage?
  
• Should this be covered under the frame builders "Lifetime Warranty"?
  
• Should I just accept i've got reasonable usage from the frame and let it go?
  
  

Have included images for reference.

4th dibs on the Cranks if you split

Hey @Overuser155208 after a few days searching for a bearing that'd work, I fell for the easy option and ebayed the forks and replaced with a TRP CX fork that worked with the original bearings out of the box.

Been experimenting with / hoarding different bar & stem combos for my track bike to try to combat me becoming old and less flexible.

Few stems all either new / installed or lightly used.

Fizik R5 Stem 100mm £15
FSA Energy Stem 100mm £15
Deda Zero 100 Stem 110mm £15
BX 110mm Stem £10

Also a 40cm Deda Velocita Track Bars with Soyo grips. £15

Collection from Farringdon during work hours or can post.

Hey @Overuser155208 cheers for the info been hunting for a bearing with the 36deg chamfer however can only seem to fi d the size i need in 45x45. Sounding like its easier to shift the forks and replacing with ones without the intergrated crown race.

Hey Everyone,

Thought i'd be clever and pick up a new fork for my cross bike off the Wiggle ebay page.

Thought i'd got myself a bargain however realised the fork as an integrated crown race that has a different bearing angle to the bearings in the headset.

Currently the bearing angle of the fork is 36 and the bearings 45.

Can I make this work by just replacing the headset bearings?

Is this a terrible idea that will affect handling of the bike etc?

This really melts my mind trying to work it out so if anyone can point me in the direction of an alternative bearing that would work i'd be grateful.

For reference the frame is a Terra X and this is the bearings that fit the frame.
https://www.condorcycles.com/products/condor-headset-bearings?variant=11177610631

Nice one cheers @M_V that looks like it will fit the bill. Will give it a go.

Here's a mtb cable next to it for comparison

Cheers @dogtemple that was my first thought however is quite a but smaller. For reference more like the size of a campag gear cable end.

Hey Everyone,

The gear cable on my Jet Black Whisper Drive turbo has corroded and unfortunately snapped.

Have contacted the manufacturer but not holding out for a replacement part as it's quite old now.

Have taken it apart and looks like a fairly simple fix if I can find a cable / shifter combo that works.

I've attached a picture of the cable end that slots into the socked on the turbo....Any clues on a possible replacement?

Also will need to work out the best way to connect to a new shifter. Only option I can currently think of is using something like a Jtek Cable Splitter and a friction shifter.

http://www.jtekengineering.com/other/cable-splitter/

Any help would be much appreciated.

2nd Dibs Miche Crankset

Levers are now gone, anyone interested in the rotors?

And some pics

Sorry size would help is 47-52cm @sacredhart

Nice one @BillyPhil

For sale is my Blackburn frame pump.

Recently purchased off ebay new however doesn't fit my frame.

Looking to get back what I paid for it. £7.50 sound good?

Collection from Farringdon during work time or can post ay buyers expense

For sale ive got a pair of Avid flat mount disc brake levers and 180mm Clarkes Rotors. Both came on new bike but switched out.

£15 for the lot sound right?

Collection around Farringdon or can post at buyers expense.

@kinchy cheers for dropping me a line, no worries was after 31.8....Still looking if anyone has a set knocking around?

New Velo Orange 80mm quill stem w/ removable faceplate. .

80mm. 31.8 clamp. ‘Nickel’ colour — i.e. silver but not highly polished mirror finish.

These typically go for £70 but seem to be out of stock.

Bought from @Browndonneur for £50 couple of weeks back however wasn't suitable for my build.

Looking to make back what I spent.

Collection from around Farringdon during work hours or can post.

Cheers @AlphaOmega did you have one you were looking to shift or was it more a product recommendation?

Looking to try out slimmer handlebars does anyone have any standard / shallow drop they have knocking arohnd they'd be interested in selling on?

Work around Farringdon most of the week so can collect from central.