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I've seen that they have metal as well but their "shaved out" design I'm not terribly a fan, would have preferred a classic shape. thanks for the suggestion though, I'll keep searching!

EDIT: seems like I found what I need, from Custom Riders (Dia-compe spacers), but the store does not ship to France I am afraid

hello, I've bought KCNC hollow headset spacers, identical to those in the pictures below:

I couldn't manage to take of the logos with nail polish remover (whereas I could on my stem), so I guess it is probably laser marked or something similar.
Would somebody have a link for 1 1/8e headset spacers, of 5mm or 10mm or 15mm or 20mm height without any logo on the cylindrical surface, that are available in green and red (same colors as above)?

EDIT: did not precise, but as located in France preferably on EU web shops!

ah, good shout, hadn't thought about it

I can see that you can buy separately front and rear Deore V-brakes (BR-T610) ; genuinely interested to know what is the difference between the two? Aren't they identical except pad orientation (which can be adjusted)??

the problem solvers one? did you use the Surly QR adaptor with it as advised by problem solvers, or just the derailleur hanger? any chance you have a picture of the set-up :)?

ah, thanks for the tip! based in France but it appears he can post to Europe, which would be great.
However, I am still trying to figure out why the adaptor is needed ; probably centering the QR axle in the track dropouts that are larger in dameter?

I am considering using a bike that is currently used as fixed gear, that has 130mm rear spacing with track dropouts.
As far as I can see, the problem solvers derailleur hanger could be an option.
In the description they precise "If you want to use this tensioner with a quick release hub, check out the Surly Bikes Tuggnut QR adaptor" ; however, this doesn't seem to be available anywhere in Europe. Would the derailleur hanger work without these adapters?

EDIT: alternatively, seems like SunXCD does one also, adaptors are not mentioned but I can't see how it is different from the problem solver one

any idea of the bars ID?

what a shame!

cheers!

ok so good leads are M47 for diesel and M54 for petrol. many thanks!

I don't find N47 engine on E46, maybe a typo error?
So the M47 diesel engine is a good first lead then, cheers!
if anyone has also other inputs that would be great :)

question to @Fixedwheelnut (who I remember has been in touch with BMW) and other BMW users/experts, what would be the best engine for the E46 for petrol and diesel?
Currently contemplating an E46 purchase for the next car, not looking for power at all just looking for best reliability in the E46 range?

I don't know your exact car application but I belive it would be better to bleed it properly. You might not notice that you have air pockets within the system, but that can create cavitation which basically destroys the inside of the water pump.

thanks!

so the combination Shimano mini-V (do you know the refernce? is it one of the references mentioned by tester above) with Sram S500 worked well for you? no pad close to rim problem and the breaking is better than canti?
I am currenlty wondering what brake use on a next build, would like to keep SS levers so probably mini-V but wondered if it was really better than canti (I only ever used dual pivot caliper so genuine question)

for a next build to keep current gear (no disc brakes in the fleet) considered either going for canti or mini-v, to keep options for road brake levers, but it seems like it could be worth going for V-brakes instead (even if options are more limited for levers).
what would be the forum recommended option if there is one for a good solid V-brake, without breaking the bank? (in silver would be even better)

ah, interesting. so mini-v against canti, it is easier to have good clearance between pad and rim if adjusted correctly? seems to be the case with the post above from @M_V

ah well, thanks for the detailed clarification! There should not be any issue with singlspeed levers in this case.

alright thanks!

Got a little bit confused with the description on Bike24, the BR-R353 (and the other ones you mentioned as well) can be used with traditional road bike levers?

will have a look! thanks

Looking for good options on mini V-brakes (Paul minimoto seem out of budget at the moment).
Any good options from Shimano or Tektro used on the forum?
(in silver preferably but not mandatory)

what is the best thread in here to discuss frame geometry? asked the question in a thread but not sur it is the relevant one

Not sure this is the best place to ask about frame geometry, feel free to redirect me to the correct thread.

I have a current bike that I quite like how it rides, it is a 650B fixed gear custom frameset that I based on another bike with slight tweaks.
Current main specifics are:

• 280mm high bottom bracket (to avoid pedal strike)
  
• 75° seat tube
  
• 75° head tube
  
• 42mm trail
  
  

I am beginning to think about a kind of rando bike inspired by french 650B bikes, to start making longer rides in tarmac and light dry gravel ; and I would like to base it on the current custom frame I have with adjustments:
1) Thought about changing the headtube angle to 73.5°, but with changes in fork rake to have the same 42mmtrail, this would help me limit toe overlap (already using 165mm cranks) without changing how the bike steers as I quite like how it is now. Is this coherent or the reasoning is wrong?
2) Thought about lowering the BB to 270mm high. I don't like pedal strikes, and have the habits of fixed gear pedaling almost constantly, but as this one will be geared and I read that low BB is preferable for bike stability, I thought it could be good to lower it. But I don't want to have it too low either ; so what are the advised BB height for this use? is 270mm coherent? is it really necessary to lower the BB? I guess it can also help to increase stack and thus comfort. Is it coherent thinking?
3) Current seat tube angle is 75°, what would be a benefit of changing it? Currently my fixed 650B has porteur bars as I always feel too stretched on drops, but I believe this is also due to the drop between saddle and handlebars. Basically I need a frame that is taller than long similar to @edscoble 's bike in this thread I believe which is another reason to go custom. Would 75° be problematic for a randonneur frame, as it is my current set-up, or it won't have any impact at all?

Thank you in advance for the advises