Search results for:

Thanks a lot. What do you stick it down with? Reckon tubular tape will be enough to keep them in place, as I have some of that, or need something more super gluey?

After my post I went and had a 1st phase rummage and found this, which looks like it fits the bill and can be trimmed to fit easily enough.

I got these ITM Dual bars for a vintage build, and after I'd stopped making pew pew pew laser noises and pretending R2D2 was summoning me to the X-fighter, I realised it doesn't have any arm pads.

These are obvs 20-30 years old so my googling didn't readily reveal any ITM replacements. Is there any other ones that will fit, they dont seem to be 1 size fits all. Or do TTers just cut and make their own pads out of foam or gel or something? If so any recommendations before I start scouring the flat for foam or gel things.

Cool bike but is it Columbus Max? Tubing doesn't look fat enough to me.

..the dream bus.

..and did lol at the little and large. The Fiat was an og Abarth with the engine hanging out the back. And talking of small vintage Fiat's, have to give @jonny a mention, think the Seat would be in his dream garage. But the coolest vehicle by far I've seen all year I'm going to post here as I dont think there's a show us your favorite bus thread, but this is so cool it made me want to convert it and move to Bristol.

Nice, getting on for 100 years old. Driver could do with cheering up, or is that the normal face of the owner of a near 100 year old Ford;)

I not seen much in the way of classics in recent months. Did see a Lambo Jalpa which you don't see every day, a lovely baby blue Triumph and the ultimate pink Cadillac....

Saw this yesterday, based on a Robin Reliant 850 engine, behold the Quasar!

It's as if Akira was being remade with zero budget by Ken Loach. Kaneda and Tetsuo being played by Keith and Trevor on their Quasar's in the rain running out of fuel somewhere on the M62 corridor.

Yeah you're right I guess, but like u say those posts are now quite speedy (not so much when I got them) so having a carbon and a ti one out of action just cos of dodgy brackets is a bit annoying. I especially want the ti one back in action.

I'll keep an eye on the bay for cheap replacements, but as u point out I should probably get an alternative so I can escape the doom loop of buy break buy break.

And heh yes Max is a good sturdy commuter/beater, not flexy and hasnt rattled itself to death or done the same to me so far :)

Not the work beater bike, it'll make it more stealable. My other bikes are clean...should be a sticker.

I've had other previous issues with alu....
https://www.lfgss.com/comments/17174078/

and....
https://www.lfgss.com/comments/15750931/

I do love Campagnolo seatposts, but 80kg'ers hammering many miles around London's shit roads I've concluded the weak link is the clamp (not the lump on board, honestly guv).

Broken my 3rd lower clamp in 6 years, one exactly same as this and other one both front 'ears' snapped off, and this time sheared clean thro the bolt too. Anyone else broken these? I'm not doing hippy or skinny miles or anything , more of a relentless plodder, approx 65,000 miles in last 8 years. Just alu fatigue from larger gent with sub par eyesight and shit roads?

Have full set now of having broken this clamp on campag alu, ti and carbon posts, the posts of this era all seem to use the same clamp.

Campag do replacements but new hips are cheaper I think. I couldn't even find any in Europe on my brief search. Saw one in USA for 85 dollars, so with taxes and postage over 100, which for something i've proven I will likely break in a couple of years is a bit of a stretch.

Don't suppose anyone has any knackered campag seatposts in their shed with those lower brackets in tact they can sells?

Otherwise looks like i'm better of buying a whole new seatpost on eBay.

Ps if the industrial might of china is listening in, can you make some of these seatpost clamps in steel, in both the 0.5 and 1mm pitch interface versions, I'm sure they'll sell like hot cakes. Id rather more durability than less weight. I'll have 3 please, thanks.

Great success that looks like them, Sachs Great Success with the logo rubbed off.

Many thanks

Anyone know what model these aero alloy levered Modolo brakes are?

Wow excellent, Somec already looks fast. Are those ITM dual bars? And is that a dinner plate size 55t chainring you've got to go on it?

I don't want you curse mine by declaring I've got a bike I don't have yet. I'm already anxious as the tracking info hasn't updated for 2 weeks so hoping it's just customs and parcel force being slow and slack, and am awaiting the 'we.have your frame hostage, pay us extra money now, including extra postage even tho I've paid postage already. #cheekybastards

Hopefully I'll hear something about frame arrival in the next week.

So all I'll say for now is mine is also italian, also yellow and about 5 years older than yours. Seems we've got some similar parts lined up., the shifters, I've got the quill version of the ITM dual bars, I've got a silver groupset with a Record crank that I've got a 55t dinner plate ring for, but the hidden bolt on my crank was stupid tight and the bolt has rounded off. I've tried dremeling in a groove to screwdriver it out but still can't budge it, so am admitting defeat on that and taking yo my LBS to see if they can get it out for me.

I'll post it on the forum when/if frame arrives and I've built it, and will follow progress on your wild Somec. Thanks for the replies.

Fantastic! Thanks very much :)

Thanks a lot Arthur, I'll await your findings with interest:)

Here are the ones I have, on the left hand shifter the silver bit has very faintly '10 speed' etched into it, so I guess that's what they are, assuming internals are as they were originally.

I guess the indexed versions have slightly different internals with a ratchety/indexed bit the friction ones don't have, but have no idea if such parts are still available and if changing a few parts you can change them from friction to indexed and vice versa. I plan to run friction not indexed so hopefully I've already got the friction version and I'm good to go. I am still waiting for the frame though so need that to arrive before I can actually start.

@ArthurDent any more pics of the full bike you're working on there, what is it?

@Shump @ArthurDent thanks for this, very timely as I've got some of those campag bar end shifters I'm about to fit to a bike, and having never used bar end shifters before I've got no idea what I'm doing.

A couple of things I'm still not sure on, did these shifters come in indexed and non indexed/friction versions or are they able to do both?

I got a set in a box of parts I bought but neither shifter has any noticeable clicks when moving the lever so I just assumed they were non indexed/friction. I was planning on using them with a 10 speed campag chorus rear derailleur.

Sadly the exploding diagram in shump's link above does not work and I can't find one online, and i find the Campag website bloody terrible for trying to find these diagrams for older spec stuff, so I'm not sure if the ones I have even have all the internal parts they should have, so would be nice to check if anyone has a copy of the exploding diagram for these.

And finally what does the little adjuster knob on the right hand shifter do?

I've only ever used Tubasti glue before which works fine but for a noob like me was a mess, was like bubblegum and applying in a fully carpeted flat resulted in some, ahem, glue residue on carpet. I've just bought some new tubs so this time have gone for the Effetto Mariposa Caragna tape for the first time. As tester says fitting looks a piece of piss and tidier, bit bloody expensive for not very much tape tho.

And cheap quick and easy way I found to remove tubs, get a plastic tyre lever, get it under tub and push it thro so the lever is above both sides of the rim, then twist your hand/lever 45 degrees and just push the plastic lever along the rim and it should dismount tub easily in seconds as you go round the rim. A chopstick also worked I found.

Then rummage through your cutlery draw in the kitchen and pick a metal spoon or fork where the end of the handle fits best in the groove of your rims, then scrape this around the whole rim a couple of times, using sunglasses or goggles as that dried glue can be like shrapnel. Takes fuck all time but smoothes out the glue/rim ready for the new glue or tape application.

Depending on how precious your cutlery is, or how agitated your other half is about using kitchen cutlery for bike tinkering, the last step may be best done stealthily :)

Got a good deal on a Ghibli recently. The frame it's destined for is still at least a week away from escaping the clutches of the Italian and British postal services and customs, so while I wait impatiently for it to arrive I thought I'd test the assertion that rear disc wheels make nearly any bike metal or plastic look faster, even when they're stationary.

Here it is on 3 of my bikes, and yes I think they all look faster than they did before, but will look slower again as soon as I climb aboard.

Oof fecksticks, sorry to hear it, heal the fuck up ASAP.

Good job, glad you sorted the electronic shifting without drilling the frame.

Looked better on the old ones :)

Agree with the top tube comment, just can't unsee a dog having a pooh.

Nice Eddy's!

I've had some saddle switches and new bar tape and gum walled up all my Eddy's for summer. The green and white one now taking advantage of the wide Pacenti Brevet rins and is fitted with 30c tyres, along with the ti one, with the others all rolling with 28c's.

But sadly its looking increasingly likely summer is not coming to the UK this year.

Set up for 10 day tour.

Putting the oof into MGOOF.

Custom chrome side pipes and some fancy Campag clamps ftw.