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maybe not easily but lever effort is quite a bit more than i'm used to is all.

so you are saying the sram hydro rims are only marginally better than cable calipers?

and well yea isn't it? the big difference is that there is essentially no friction in pushing a fluid through a tube compared to a cable in housing.

yea i have 6800 calipers, standard (new) housing and cables. calipers look centered, not sure i have toe-in right though. pads are standard shimano ones on hed ardennes aluminum rims. the rear feels considerably more spongy. it goes through a port on the front-underside of the top tube and out a port on the left side of the rear of the top tube. think i have the run done well (at least according to a mechanic i showed it to). i have to grip pretty hard to lock the rear wheel.

i guess maybe i should try polymer coated cables? is there another pad that is significantly better for alloy rims? i thought the kool stop salmons were for carbon rims? the bxp is for alloy though?

although i agree you can pair their mtb rd and cassettes with a wolftooth tanpan. i run 50-34 x 11-40 and it works pretty well. currently the only option that gives you good range and spacing. you also get the clutch which is nice for really rough stuff.

i'm thinking about getting the sram red hydro rim brake shfiters/brakes and derailleurs and pairing them with shimano 11 speed crank/cassette/chain.

i'm a bit unhappy with mechanical rim brakes given my first "road" bike had hydraulic discs.

any opinions on this combo/idea? it would have been cool if there had been an etap hydro rim brake group...

jamis renegade
tcr advanced
santacruz highball

lol this is a bit painful

i don't think that is true. as he doesn't post to strava or anything i can't be sure but many of the rides he talks about in seattle are mostly paved.

looks like it is on backwards

yea exactly. and i believe that is the case here.

i am not so sure. if the stem on the smaller frame is not such that it makes the stem parallel with the ground then you have rise, and if you are in the same position, roughly the same frontal area.

you can also reduce stack i'd say by about 5-10mm via headset changes. i've had a shitty slamthatstem.com cover on mine for a while (i think the stock headset cover adds about 10mm) and have ordered cane creek's slamset which ought to work similarly.

that is exactly what i do with that frame.

@hippy i don't think it really makes it much more aero. with that hta a -17 stem looks almost flat. fwiw i haven't had any problems dangling all manner of fred shit off of mine. an added benefit (actually) is that you can have more tire clearance for hanging a big handlebar bag off the front.

56cm jamis renegade has near those numbers.

yes it generally works fine, until it doesn't. but if you have enough clearance mild singletrack is fine.

really wish you could get the carbon frameset separately, i'd really like the newer flat-mount version in a 54 instead of the 56 i've got. maybe i should just crash it?

m785

i've run a xt 48/28 w/ an xt fd bottom pull with ultegra 6800 shifters on a salsa vaya. trim doesn't work but it is otherwise fine.

that guy runs ultegra di2 (i think both 6750 and 6850) and says it works very well. i think he has the rotor spidering now but hasn't reviewed it yet.

fsa makes 2 46-30 cranks and i've heard good things.

http://www.gravelcyclist.com/bicycle-tech/review-fsa-sl-k-modular-adventure-bb386evo-crankset-subcompact-chainrings/

spiffy bike

where is this? looks like the northeast US? PA?

that looks like a force 1x rd, which from my understanding won't work with a double up front. wonder what is going on here...

I have one and it is awesome. the stack is a little higher than i'd like but otherwise fantastic.

they are awesome tires.