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The RPM/output is the same as the newer Shimano hubs 72/80 but the drag is significantly more and it's not as well sealed. Fine for commuting but you won't want to compete or long tour with it. Can't advise on the USB (that wouldn't be right).

The digital monitoring I best not get into, otherwise a Plug 4 might come out! It's internal, no display I'm afraid. Basically it monitors the dynamo rotation and uses it in logic operations.

Updates will be here: https://www.facebook.com/igarod1/

Do the usual "Like" nonsense and you'll be notified when the free unit draw starts!

Don't buy yet.

The price of the next gen is roughly the same (< £100) but will only be available through distributors, one being a large cycle store in the UK - can't say which one right now. I can no longer sell them direct I'm afraid, part of the RoE.

ETA three/four weeks - I hope!

Regards, Andrew

Allow me to shoot myself in the foot...

Hold off on the D1, the next generation version is coming in a few weeks - features a titanium case at 2/3 the current size, external serviceable USB port, digital dynamo monitoring, a slightly higher efficiency (it is already excellent but will be 1-4% higher) and 25yr rated military grade components. The IP69 rating and life-time warranty remains in place.

Will pm some thoughts as it's not making too much sense, when going slow the protection wouldn't be active, and it definitely wouldn't be active if the light is charging.

It sounds like you're going fast enough to charge both (or the light is charged), there's no other explanation for it.

Sorry I just caught the post. He must have been going at some speed with nothing plugged in for the overvoltage protection to kick in. Even then it'll take a while for the case to heat up as it's a pretty chunky bit of aluminium. Don't worry about it, in bag or outside, it's not going to overheat.

Are these standard size bearing size and how easy to swap out without specialist tools?

I've been recommending SP-8x (for efficiency) without much feedback on the bearing life. Previously I recommended (and personally run) Shimano dynamos as I have had experience with these cup/cone bearings lasting for a lengthy amount of time under arduous riding conditions, while sealed bearing hubs I've found never lasted more than a couple 1000k's.

The D1 will begin to dump unused power as heat at about 19-20V to protect it's electronics, in one of the two conditions;

1. Going very fast downhill with a USB device in or,
   
2. going fast without a device in (still talking racing, not touring speed).
   
   

If you're going fast most the time it'll be better to keep a device plugged in so that it doesn't trigger (can I ask why your plugging/unplugging so frequently)? The case is aluminium and is used to heatsink the power loss should it need to occur (the usb wire isn't) so would be more noticeable inside a bag. It's not a problem though.

Hope that helps!

I thought the input voltage wouldn't make that much difference in the efficiency between units, but I was wrong.

Using a small 6V power supply and a light load (a rear LED light) the D1 is 19.6% more efficient.

I'm awaiting on a larger 6V transformer to redo the 500mA test.

Whoops, this is the Plug 3, which comes with a "Pat 2" cylinder. My apologies.

Using the chart provided by Supernova, that means if you want 500mA, (a good standard on which to know your phone is going to charge and be able to still use GPS), then you will have to average 21kph.

Source: http://www.cyclingabout.com/review-tout-terrain-the-plug-iii/

I had a brain fart and used the non input voltage drop. Corrected in the data below.

Here's the results.

I'm using a 11.28V AC transformer but the efficiency difference should be the same as neither is dropping the additional voltage as heat (both use switch mode converters) and if any zener's are apparent in The Plug (as they are in the D1 to protect against very high speed with no device attached) then they've not activated.

I'll repeat it with a 6V AC transformer soon but the difference between them should remain the same. The actual efficiency for both will probably go down a little (this is due to rectifying diodes having a relatively constant voltage drop).

Load is a 10 ohm resistor, which best simulates a 500mA output (aka USB2). This is also the typical output at normal speed (6V*0.5A) = 3W.

Edit: see image below, I was off by 1%.

Conclusion

D1 - 10% more efficient @ USB 2 500mA load.

Benchmarks against Supernova The Plug coming up soon. Thanks to @hippy for sending one in!

Edit: I better not publish any figures just yet.

In case you missed it, Rose do a build service using this dynamo hub and Mavic A319 and a few others. Price is very competitive.

PM'd you the form.

Ready to begin testing, I was waiting for some further benchmarking equipment to arrive.

Also after a Sinewave and B&M Werk. Will pay the postage both ways and guarantee survival/condition. It'll only take a day to record the figures.

Currently in Tajikistan with the D1. It's powering my Sony M4 aqua at 10.5kph. An Austrian friend with the Plug 3 has to go 15kph. Quite a difference on bad road conditions. Will have proper stats comparing the lot in a month.

A device that accepts 3W of charge power will take twice as long to charge. If the 1.5W is less than its power consumption it will indicate it is charging but will discharge (more slowly). 3W is on the threshold for many devices (smartphones especially). Personally I wouldn't buy a 1.5W dynamo.

The 3W XT version isn't much more, it's what I use (over here in the UK it's called the 3N80). There's also the cheaper 3n72 (LX) version if you can stomach the 100g weight penalty. The internal electrics are identical. These are the only Shimano hubs worth considering in terms of resistance -v- efficiency.

As I recall the 3n72 was painted black and became an Alpine. Can't remember the model number however.

Hi all, I'm cutting it close with other matters at the moment, I'll PM you lot after June 6th when I'll be in a better position to benchmark them quickly, but that's the 'big three' covered.

Regards, Andrew

Brill, send me an email: ac at igaro dot com

(used is fine)

I'm after multiple products for efficiency benchmarking against the Igaro D1 because these companies wont release performance figures. If you'd be happy to send yours to England I'l return it within a week along with a free Igaro D1.

Required: Sinewave Revolution, B&W USB Werk, Tout Terrain Plug

Update is up. Ignore the "10th" on the form, it's live from now.

Thanks chiroshi, will be with you in about a week. Iceland is third on my list, probably going to be next year if I don't make the summer window (riding Tajikistan in May!)

Regards, Andrew

It's always up for review. When I have greater capacity there may be the means to create two versions; same electronics, different case.

There's a 15% off offer going up on the website later, and for anyone that can't decide, I've always said if it doesn't work for you, you can send it back for a complete refund. I can offer that because I make them to a) work and b) continue working.

Not a single D1 returned to date. (touch wood).

Regards, Andrew

It's tricky as the long distance touring market prefers items which are fixed to prevent theft. They also tend to want to charge both a phone/gps on the handlebar and a device inside the rear pannier, hence the original bottle mount idea.

However you only need an M5 hole - the fork mudguard mount for example? It's also possible to put under a stem, as the tab is long enough to pass a long cable tie through and around.

For mounting on the stem / handlebar etc, something like this;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360-Mountain-Road-Bike-Bicycle-Water-Bottle-Cage-Holder-Bracket-Handlebar-Mount-/381590459981

and remove the black piece and bolt the D1 straight on? It looks like an M5 fixing.

1. cache battery -> li-ion only last for ~500 charges which is nothing for touring or long term use and they reduce efficiency to 75% (approx), while super capacitors can't give out the amperage (charge fast, high internal resistance). I've tried both, but it's better to be ultra efficient with what is available.

2. with the Werk you still need to ensure the USB port runs down at an angle or the pins will corrode. Werk replacement cable cost needs to be factored in, plus availability if you're touring, while a USB extension cable is £0.99 and available mostly everywhere. For this reason I'm reluctant to move the USB port externally.

Regards, Andrew

Presently it's limited by the size of the USB port. I'm looking at getting the electronics side manufactured in mass to cut down on production time but it's a little way off at the moment. 50% of the internal space is took up by capacitors and the only way to reduce them is to add frequency detection to prevent on/off switching at low speed, of which the frequency differs per dynamo manufacturer!

I could make them without the fixing tab (or you could hacksaw it off). How would you affix it, tape? Those circular plastic ties Cateye use for their older lights would be ideal if I could find them.

Andrew