ultra roadie

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  • Ultra as in for riding ultra distance?

  • Pretty much, and also for general road riding and training.

  • sad that the s3 did not work out

  • It would have been a great bike, and cheap to put together.
    But I don't think it would have actually been that useful for me.

  • Sweet. I'm building up an '18 SLX rim at the moment, stuck at vinyl wrap design, everything else is ready to go

  • Sounds interesting, have you got a link?
    Nevermind, it took a bit but I found it.

  • I'm slightly confused about where to place the B-Junction.
    It seems the only way to place it inside the frame would be to put it loose into the BB shell?
    There is a small hole between the bottle cage mounts on the downtube. I wonder if this has something to do with it all? But I can't seem to find any documentation.
    Has anyone got an idea?


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  • There is a small hole between the bottle cage mounts on the downtube. I wonder if this has something to do with it all?

    No that is for a ziptie to hold cables/hoses.

    https://www.canyon.com/on/demandware.static/-/Library-Sites-canyon-shared/default/dwfd12d4d4/explosiondrawings/2019/endurace/R36-19_R054-01-AM_BOM_ME.pdf

    https://www.canyon.com/en-us/canyon-hose-guide-e389-16/167698.html

    B junction goes in BB shell near and below the battery, watch the video I posted earlier

  • Think that hole is a clip to hold the cables in place inside the downtube. On my Canyon there is a small plate under the downtube above the BB which you can remove to access the B junction and battery (although you need to insert it through the BB shell)

  • Thanks, that makes sense.

  • So the B-Junction does just sit loose in the BB?
    As the battery bracket has no way of holding the junction box.

  • B junction is always just loose but normally in the bottom of the DT. Wrap it in a thin layer of something to stop it rattling if you want

  • Thanks for the help, everyone.

    I'm looking for a pair of NOS Vittoria Pave Open, in 27mm.
    Specifically the green stripped version. For the Flandrian style.


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  • cannot believe i've this excited for the building of a road bike , when it gets the eventual withslingers bag, my humble suggestion is something mille migallia inspired?

    The first Mille Miglia jackets were produced by C.P. Company in 1988 and were initially given away to the organisers and competitors of the Mille Miglia (1000 Miles) endurance race, which the brand sponsored in 1998 and 1989.


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  • Filth. I love you.

  • You should make yourself available for build consultations, colour combinations and retro fashion pairings. Inspiring suggestion as always

  • Great look with the frameset

  • Please don’t be disappointed when it looks like every other Canyon at Regent’s Park.

  • .


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  • Either super shallow for the ‘training wheels on a race bike’ style or deep section for the ‘Sunday 80km with the team from digital marketing’ look.

    hmm, call it boring but somewhere in the middle, 35mm minimum, 40-46mm spot on... Not sure where that look sits.

  • Shallow with tanwalls plz :)

  • Next up, cleaning the shifters.
    They were in a pretty bad state when I got them but I'm happy to put in some work to get them functional.
    There was a huge amount of grime underneath the rubber covers (which are going to be replaced) which I've spent sometime getting off. Once these are working I'll give them some more time with Isopropyl.

    The major problem is the left shifter's bleed port screw is rounded.
    Has anyone dealt with this before and can offer some advice?


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  • Get a screw extractor set, i reckon it would easily drill out

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ultra roadie

Posted by Avatar for samrensho @samrensho

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