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• #877
Grav boards
Or
Mosa -
• #878
Mosa - interesting, thanks - that's been the gateway drug to the world of posh tiles.
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• #879
Anyone know anything about designing / installing a balcony railing / balustrade?
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• #880
It's a fucking pain . Problems can arise with :
- How do you affix the railing to the existing structure? Will it be stable and secure ? Will it move over time? Do you need to place extra structural support for the railing ?
- If installing over an existing external roof or terrrace- how can the installer / builder guarantee the thing will be waterproof where it's fixed into the existing roof structure.
An architect may or may not care about the above . An installer will likely take the job/ deposit before flagging any of this
- How do you affix the railing to the existing structure? Will it be stable and secure ? Will it move over time? Do you need to place extra structural support for the railing ?
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• #881
Umm, not to stick my oar in but that's exactly what architects care about - at least the ones that design stuff like balustrades. I used to do it but not for a while.
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• #882
Oh I get that they should ! Unfortunately mine didn't
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• #884
Wouldn't you want a structural engineer too, at some point?
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• #885
Dunno. The existence of the existing wrecked balustrade has so far suggested otherwise to me - replace rather than new - but if it’s a job that requires SE support and an architect then I guess I could / should go down that route.
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• #886
I'm sure you've got a cousin you could ask...
Depending on what/where it is, you don't necessarily need to design one from scratch - a suitable product (custom-made) will come with the structural calcs for the balustrade part, the fabricator may be ok with calculating for the fixings or that might need an engineer.
Protection from falling - height and resistance to loading (and design so your child can't easily climb it or get stuck) - comes under Part K of the Building Regs. I assume if you're replacing one you still have to get building control, but actually I don't know.
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• #887
replace rather than new
what's the difference?
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• #888
When you see something that’s there but fucked you think ‘ok I can just do that but less fucked’ - obvs not a line of thinking that always stands up to scrutiny…
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• #889
Unless it's got some historical/conservation get-out, at the very least you need to make sure the replacement is up to regs.
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• #890
Yeah - super glad I posted. Ta. Know anyone who can sort this mess out for me? Assume process is
- design the installation to regs and working with the as is structure
- Pick a suitable product
- Make drawings for build
- Get approval if needed
- design the installation to regs and working with the as is structure
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• #891
Outside of my expertise :|
Is it the pic at the top of the page - is it a small bit of flat roof at first floor level?
Simplest might be to find a product you like, find out whether it would work (size and what it's fixing to) and quote for fabrication and install altogether, they will do drawings etc and they should be able to provide info needed for building control. But I don't know if you would need it - maybe not if it's considered a replacement. Phone call to local authority building control or a private one should tell you.But basically design and fabricate =/= pick a product, and the latter is easier if you find one you like that works.
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• #892
Yeah it’s this. Doubt it was done to any particular standard and the installation is really poor.
They did match the railing motif the original though! I’d like to keep it, so I’d like the same style, but less shit / ducked.
Originally these houses all had a half width balcony with a wooden railing. This one has been extended to full width but obvs the railing design / install needed a support thus making it incredibly stupid.
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• #893
Hmm this is well outside my comfort zone for advice, but I would suggest giving building control a call to find out if you replace it with a similar design whether it would need to go for approval. If you want something similar it's unlikely you'll find a product to match so yes then you are back to drawing up a design and asking an engineer to give you some comfort that the load-resistance is ok. The balusters and handrail resisting lateral forces is less of a worry than over-turning which depends on what the main uprights are fixed into and how. However, an engineer will not (usually) give advice on things like detailing to prevent water sitting on/under the bottom rail or waterproofing the connection to the building - a practical architect, builder or joiner may be a better bet for that.
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• #894
Thanks!
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• #895
Think I've got to a good position with our plans (original/current layout here) - thanks everyone for your input and help so far.
@chrisbmx116 - your suggestion about some sliding/double doors very much helped trigger the idea of bricking up the existing door out to the back yard, giving more room for worktop/cupboards in the kitchen (and thus not needing to extend further than the chimney breast). Oh! The plan is to have some kind of double/french/sliding doors between living room and dining room - not just an opening.Still waiting on solicitors (been two months - chain free sale) to do their thing before we can properly get cracking though.
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• #896
You'll probably get forced in to installing a sprinkler system with that very open plan layout.
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• #897
Oh pants. That I could do without..! Will investigate - thank you!
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• #898
your downstairs layout is basically identical to our old place (only your kitchen looks to be a much better width), only we were more open from front to mid room downstairs, BC were fine with it.
We put in floor-to-ceiling cupboards continuing the line of the stairs front to back, providing a pantry and hiding washing machine/boiler, as well as a bit of outside storage. Super useful. Agent floorplan attached.
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• #899
That's amazing, thanks! Definitively worth us thinking about more storage if most of the understairs is going to be a loo in theory, especially with two littl'uns in the house.
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• #900
Late to the party, but that balustrade looks much lower than building regs would let you get away with now. Quick google it needs to be 1.1m from the flooring level.
We have this little outdoor balcony thing that currently has felt (lol) and deck board on it but it’s being replaced with FRP and tiles. But what tiles, and where from?
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