How do I bathroom / kitchen / extension? etc.

^photo uploads not working will try and upload later.

Could the plasterer leave a shadow gap?

This would give the clean look and also mean the depth difference was mostly irrelevant.

Are you planning on keeping the doors?

FWIW I have an internal door with no architrave and the vibrations from closing it cause cracks, only small ones, but it does need touching up every now and again. I finished it myself with skim of filler to blend out any height differences, also did that with new loft underage storage.

Between this and chopping the surface in half I worry about the safety of those around you.

I'd worry about your safety more...

Are you planning on keeping the doors?

Unfortunately yes (too many £s for negligible return). Anyway if supermarket flooring can make a comeback so can fake lead inserts 🤣

Good point though.

shadow gap?

How is this done? Do you need to chase out an extra section?

Also worth saying that room quotes are currently £400-600. So more costly work has to be measured against that.

My only thought other than an L-Shaped trim was whether there was a way to build out the frame using some clever otp trim I'm not aware of.

I reckon if you took off the existing plastic trim you could get the plasterer to overboard the door lining perhaps? then could use a stop bead where the plaster meets the PVC door frame.

i can't tell if that makes sense the way i've said..!

so remove the red bits; board the yellow, stop bead the green*, corner bead the blue
or you could go do a fancy and instead of plastering the yellow bits, use some nice wood/other material as a posh liner of sorts.

*might not be needed, we had these types of areas just plastered to butt up against the door frame, not perfectly clean, but not at all noticeable when lived in day to day

1 Attachment

I'll post some more pics as I'm struggling to work out your suggestion.

The issue is the frame is wood and you can't plaster on top of it.

Here is a birds eye view of the issue.

At the moment the wood frame is flush. But after the skim it'll be too low.

4 Attachments

aha! the idea in my head is screwing plasterboard to the current wood door lining and skimming on top of that, then the gap can be filled and a corner bead used atop

1 Attachment

Right. I've got you.

I'd be reticent to remove the wood frame in case there's anything semi-structural. It can't go ontop. As the skiritng is on, and from a timings pov I won't be able to do everything required.

Stop bead where the plaster meets the lining, then use some fancier strips of wood to have a decorative edge/extension to the lining to bring it out flush..?

I should probably stop now, soz! :)

1 Attachment

Can't you (carefully) scrape/cut that lead stuff off?

For the frame, get wall plastered, see how much depth you are missing on the frame, get thin plywood in right depth, glue onto frame, make nice? Paint plywood if preferred, oil if it's nice.
Plywood then plaster would be better ofc but you said time is short.

All our sheds fell to bits, max they are 5 years old.

Is the door reveal painted timber board we can see the end edge of ?

What’s the skirting doing at the bottom ? My instinct is you need to add an architrave of some kind or plant a stop bead on the existing lining and then add a new lining inside that to get a minimal look.

To solve a similar problem (plasterboard butting up not very flush to an aluminium frame), I used angled pine moulding / beading.

1 Attachment

Yes.

I've relalised it might be confusing as you can see a wooden edge, but the main surface is white. This was all covered with cladding before.

Here is a better breakdown plus skirting and a view from further back.

I think I'll msg one of the plasterers to check if you can fix a slim stop bead to the wood and then go over that, or will the wood still absorb though it.

3 Attachments

still reckon you could line the existing wood frame with a slightly deeper bit of ply (as per @Sheppz) after removing the plastic trim - perhaps the 4mm veneered stuff here* - it being thin should mean it'll still just about sit on top of the existing skirt without protruding.

Then have the new plaster butt up to that ply, either with a stop/corner bead or with the gap/recess to the current frame filled with something flexible under the skim... maybe?!

*could then stain it to be a bit more teak-y colour if that fits with the rest of the furniture in the room too

edit: 'trimless door detail' seems to be the google image search that brings thing up close-ish to what's in my head

@hugo7 it looks like the wall surface is a couple of mm prouder than the wood frame. Can you not get some strips of pine/wood a couple of mm deep the same width as the frame, pin them to the wood frame, let your plasterers do their thing, then run a nice sharp blade between the plaster and the newly attached strips and then fill with a flexible caulk?

Should allow you to have a minimal level appearance and the caulk will hopefully avoid any cracking appearing.

I have used paintable exterior frame sealant/caulk in my place where wood meets plaster and the movement has been hidden by the flexible nature of the caulk.

This I think ^ is what I'd do if you didn't want to alter the skirting into the reveal.

The plaster bead thing fixed to the existing wood could be a bad idea as whilst the bead flange holes will let the plaster grab you cant be sure the wood wont move.

1 Attachment

Any recommendations for a structural engineer, for dormer loft conversion calcs?

Preferably in East London… ours has disappeared :(

What company are you using? They are usually included, I'll try look out who did ours with Bespoke.

We’re not using a turnkey company; arranging everything ourselves to try to keep the costs down… that’d be great, thanks!