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• #3252
If you’re going to have a soil stack going floor to ceiling I’d have some full hight cabinets around it, fridge freezer and eye-height oven. FF that far away / disconnected would drive me mad. You can have book shelves or something on the back, coat hooks & shoe storage maybe. Could help give a little separation from entry-way into living space.
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• #3253
The wet room it's going in is under 2m² so if it couldn't go in your kitchen it wouldn't be too big for that as well?
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• #3254
Price check pls...
We've just had our first quote for redoing our ground floor in oak Herringbone, and are a bit taken aback.
Quote breakdown:
- Oak floor; supply, install, sand and finish inc. 15% waste £8,745.00
- Boarder £720.00
- Skirting boards: remove, replace £1,200.00
- Remove OG floor (incv £300 for skip) £732.00
- Existing tiles disposal £270.00
- levelling compound, supply and apply £1,472.00
^ all ex VAT obvs.
I know we can do some of that list ourselves and I asked them for the fullest quote, but it's still basically £12.5k for self leveling, wood, fitting and finishing.
Am I being unreasonable, is this just what ~53m² of floor costs?
Cheers.
- Oak floor; supply, install, sand and finish inc. 15% waste £8,745.00
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• #3255
That's roughly 250 per m²?
Yes, expensive, but quite doable to pay that amount for flooring without any prep I thought.
And oak herringbone isn't exactly a budget choice. -
• #3256
Yeah. That's what I thought.
My OH is really set on Herringbone. I'm keen that whatever we put down is hardwearing or can be refinished, so that's how we've ended up with solid oak.
Might be time to rethink material.
I just haven't seen any composite? (forget the word) flooring that I like and isn't basically the same price as oak.
I'm wondering about revisiting tiles and just doing the hall and kitchen, then refinishing the dining room.
Basically we don't like the hall and it doesn't match, the kitchen is proper shit, and the dining room is knackered in the high footfall areas. Hence just doing the lot.
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• #3257
If the hive were going for a tile for a narrow dark hall and a bright kitchen what would it choose?
(no terrazzo - spent too much time in supermarkets recently)
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• #3258
Hallway - seagrass (or marmoleum with a large mat)
Kitchen - cork
Refinish dining room (parquet right ?)Fuck bougois herringbone
Mix don’t match - choose function and economy over all else. -
• #3259
+1.
Terracotta tiles for the kitchen. Herringbone doesn’t belong in a house built after 1900 in the UK (neither does parquet imo but I feel many will disagree). -
• #3260
As much as I like the idea of Cork for a kitchen. It seems like an awful idea with a young family. My parents kitchen when I was really little was Cork and it didn't hold up well.
Similarly won't seagrass just get absolutely filthy in a hall?
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• #3261
Forbo/marmoleum would work well for hallway and kitchen imo - not sure if it will be tons cheaper (but I have no basis for that).
Other idea would be to use a product like Kabric floor - I now have two friends who have done it themselves and it looks great. The how well it holds up vs kids would be an unknown
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• #3262
neither does parquet
It's retro basket weave. Is that OK?
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• #3263
We’ve just taken delivery of cork and rubber for the bathroom and kitchen respectively, both from colourflooring - will add pics once in (two kids (5+1) and a dog in the house)
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• #3264
not sure if it will be tons cheaper
This is the thing. I probably need to revisit all the options, but whenever I've compared stuff in the past, other than shit laminate or shit vinyl, everything else ends up being pretty similar.
The micro concrete looks interesting. I was pricing it up last night and although it'd still be >€6k (I didn't check VAT and P&P) for the whole ground, doing the hall and kitchen would be nearer £2k, then we'd just refinish the dining room parquet but with better products.
Also I think diy is an option with micro concrete. My only concern is that the wood tiles are stuck with some sort of bitumen and the wood floor guy said the reason they use self levelling is because the bitumen is almost impossible to remove.... However, it'd just be the hall that we'd have to deal with as the kitchen tiles will be on normal adhesive.
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• #3265
I’d go with a mix of fun stuff like marmoleum / quarry tiles / bubble wrap, but each to their own.
If you’re set on herringbone we’ve used these guys to supply on a few commercial jobs. Good solid oak blocks a lot cheaper than I’ve seen elsewhere. Worth calling to find out what they’ve actually got in the warehouse just now.
https://www.encorereclamation.co.uk/product/oak-parquet-250mmx72mm/
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• #3267
^ cheers.
Also for ref this is the layout. Kitchen cupboards marked in red.
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• #3268
Kabric
Oooooo I like the look of their wall paint - everytime we see a nice freshly plastered wall it almost feels a shame to paint it, maybe this solves that issue in a few places..!
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• #3269
👍
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• #3271
@Tenderloin - what colour Kabric floor did your mates have?
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• #3272
Seagrass is a silly suggestion yes - cork was for lfgss lols (but I still would !) . Seeing the plan - a single material through there would be nice. We have the same type of floor I think - concrete - bitumen - and 5 finger parquet. It’s a headache because you need to self level over the bitumen (and they need to use the right product to seal in the nasties.) I would have done marmoleum if I could have afforded it - but you could look at their click fix tile range. I guess to avoid self levelling you might be able to glue standard pine or reclaimed gym flooring down (using special bitumen compatible glue) and then sand and oil.
The benefit of wood is that it gives a little (tiny bit) of insulation for foot comfort - the slab won’t have insulation and so is cold on bare feet in winter (with tile particularly)
Cost wise that herringbone is £15o pm2 - sheet marmoleum is like £20. Self levelling will be the same and fitting could be cheaper. Tile - must be about 50 pm2 and same again for laying maybe.A simple plain tile in a grid would be good too .
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• #3273
So the last couple of weeks have been interesting, hopefully we'll have a nice house before the summer ends.
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• #3274
Something in the first photo terrifies me a bit but I guess everything turned out ok :)
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• #3275
One thing with herringbone parquet is that I never saw it looking good in renovations, even really expensive ones. Borders, doors, never looked as good as the old stuff. Might be that it needs to look used, but to find someone who works with the same care as 130 years ago might just be impossible.
If I was on a position to get new flooring in my apartment it would be linoleum all over, maybe different colours. It is nice to live on, and has the potential to look good with walls and doors that are a bit wonky as it looks very clean.
Something I saw recently in renovations is using lose granulate stuff instead of self leveling stuff. Leveled with the help of a big spidery thing, then have floating MDF, and then linoleum. To me as an interested non professionnal that looked really good and would ad bounce and insulation.
Needs more not heated corridor I reckon