How do I bathroom / kitchen / extension? etc.

Attach the toilet paper holder to the vanity instead of the wall. Then rotate the toilet so it is parallel to the window wall.
Put a smaller towel heater above toilet tank.

diagonal jobbies

The final one is marken who is the dad of herts and Essex bloke and alexs uncle i think

Its a cartel i tell ye

Ha! I think there may even be another? But yeah.

Rotating toilet parallel to window wall doesn't work, no room. Knees would hit shower enclosure.

Towel rad in shower enclosure was something I thought about @chrisbmx116 but it's gonna result in wet towels surely? It might look massive but it's only 1.5m long

Yeah, sorry, meant other way so facing down the room.
150cm is pretty decent size for a shower, think my loft one is only 90, maybe 120? Either way not 150 so you could consider making a narrow cupboard to store things or go with rad in shower which should be an ok distance

Sink in the shower turn toilet so knees are where the sink was.

Cheers, I found the plans on the planning site. From spending ten years in a similiar flat I'd have loved a roof terrace. How much do you think it will add to the cost if you don't mind me asking?

Will be interested to hear how it goes, obviously a big gap in the market for a loft conversion company in the area now.

Do you need such a big shower? You could use half that space, sink against the wall where long shower would have been, toilet flat against the wall and a low/long towel rad under the window

Or could you flip the shower so it’s along the other wall, toilet opposite the window with small towel rad above and sink under window?

We’ve a 150 cm shower tray and there’s minimal splash beyond it, even when the less considerate members of the household use it. Our towel radiator thing is another 50 cms or so beyond it, and the towels never get wet. I think what @chrisbmx116 is suggesting is definitely worth considering.

Having the loo at a jaunty angle would piss me off on a daily basis. The bathroom in our house had the toilet (and the taps) at a slightly off centre angle, which is not something you notice at a viewing, and it bothered me every time I used them.

@Cupcakes towel rad left/the entrance side of shower, loo straight and have it on a wall with storage and reservoir inside, then it's easy to have a shower that has only mixer and outlets visible plus some shelf thing too.
Don't do those big grey tiles, unless you go really big so they disappear, they are dated if you ask me. Same goes for the blocks on shower screen.
Agree on stuff at an angle, will feel like a plane toilet.

Finally got the whole gaff watertight, only to find the place trashed/seshed by foxes this morning.

Claw/tooth marks on the new door/window frames, plasterboard ripped off walls, wiring chewed up, materials gashed. A big sozlol.

Gonna have to get a ‘smart repair’ company in to fix the window frames…

1 Attachment

WTF. Were they rabid?!

Not unless it's 1922.

Foxes are just cunts.

Shit!

We’ve a 150 cm shower tray and there’s minimal splash beyond it

You've made me want to measure ours. But I want to say we don't get splash that far, but it's definitely outside the tray and requires a curtain.

That leads me to think shower head is a factor

JEEZUS BLOODY CHRIST.
Sorry to see that!

This is what I was chatting.

1 Attachment

sorry to see the fox damage!

@ectoplasmosis was it you who was talking about an extractor fan that is in the loft, extracted out the roof, meaning you can have a much more powerful fan as you can't hear it in the room? Thinking of something powerful for the kitchen but hate the noise.

Maybe im making it up.

We have just had this done; one for utility room downstairs, one for bathroom upstairs. You can barely hear them in the rooms but they suck a lot of air. If you go in the loft while they're on you can hear they're quite loud.

what's the system called?

Pass. I just told builder to use whatever he knows to work well.

'Inline' is your search term. Duct, in-duct, or inline duct, etc. as well possibly.

They'll have different power ratings (Extraction Rate #m³/HR) which you can use to tell you how much they'll move - ie what is the most powerful at your price point. Internet advice is you want solid pipes not flexible ones. Your builder will want to use flexible ones because they're quicker and easier.

They look like this https://www.screwfix.com/p/manrose-mf100t-100mm-inline-extractor-fan-with-timer-240v/719gy

^not a specific reco just a pointer

Also they can be much bigger which makes them more powerful.

So, we have some plans and stuff for a new kitchen. Waiting on a quote for the bits then we give that to the blokes that'll stick it in (ooh nurse).

The plumbing in ours is a mess though and I have a solution but I don't know if it's possible nor how much it will cost. We used to have an immersion heater and cold water tank in the cupboard, which has been replaced with a little electric hot water heater for the kitchen and bathroom taps.

For some reason, we have two water meters.

Can I get a plumber to remove all the pipes in the cupboard and along the wall, including the second water meter and relocate (a probably new) hot water heater thing under the kitchen sink, near the other existing water meter? Do you need to involve Thames Idiot Water if/when moving meters or can you just have it done and then let them know the meter is no longer needed because the plumbing has been consolidated?

Any idea what this lunacy might cost (ballpark, obvs)?