Project: Talbot Frameworks 1x & Cinelli Mash Parallax

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  • hah. good spot, probably time to remove the single speed from the thread title

  • Not taking the piss! I’m doing something very similar to an old mtb at the mo!

  • I think he does/did it himself

  • Yep. Matt painted this one himself.

  • better pics to come tomorrow rain dependent

    So, I think it’s finally ‘finished’.

    38c Ramparts added, 1x10 11-42 with a 42t front chainring

    Shifts a beauty. Had some small issues with indexing that were resolved by adding a couple of washers on to the hanger to pull the RD away from the sprocket

    Chuffed to say the least.


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  • In need of a more elegant solution for the cabling other than zip ties which are quite sharp when cut. Any suggestions?

  • Use nail cutters to cut the cable ties!

  • Absolutely genius. Champ, thanks man.

  • Always used to heat up a big flat screwdriver with a lighter and then use the heat and flat edge to melt the end of the cut plastic flat
    Can’t say I did it on all of the customers bikes, only the really nice ones

  • Feeling good so far!


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  • I always heat the sharp ends with a lighter and smooth them of with my thumb in a teaspoon. Sounds random but it works

  • So, after the Talbot is pretty much finished. (Some final tweaking for some bikepacking trips or pending) I’ve been looking for another track bike to put a little more focus/attention in than I did the cannondale.

    So then the Parallax came up a couple days ago!

    Went for Stayer 60mm laced to the DT. Has the seat from the Cannondale & a generic Bontrager Post currently.

    Current decisions are crankset? Record pista/Suginos are on the list.

    Then deciding on bars & stem! Definitely going to keep this flat bars as I just prefer riding brakeless on flats, but yet to decided where to go.

    I would like some dead flat bars (no rise or sweep back) any ideas?

    (Also apologies for the shit photo & my messy flat, too excited for good weather to post this)


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  • Ended up keeping the drops on the Parallax for now, have enjoyed using them a lot more than on my cannondale.

    It’s definitely in need of a zipp post (if anyone has one in 27.2!) and some fabric tape has been added since the first photo! Also possibly a chrome thomson clamp?

    Both bike appear to be finished... for now. Quick shot of them post wash & grease today!

    Pretend tour bike & shit fixie skidding machines nearly complete


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  • hows the chain line on the talbolt when in the heavist gear?

    im running 1x10, gxp cranks, nw, sram rival etc.

    its just a bit rough..

  • What do you mean by rough?

    Mine seems to runs smooth!

  • when in the largest gear it just sounds rough, like friction from a bad chainline on the front ring.

    must be a me problem

  • have enjoyed using them a lot more than on my cannondale

    How's the ride compare to the CAAD? Stayer's look speedy, regret selling my DT/Crabons.

  • bikes looking pretty hip !
    that mash screams for watts

  • a little more aggressive for sure but I seem to enjoy it more, might also be because of the drops and wheels.

    stayers are lovely as they’re so wide & comfy. dam yeah those DT carbons were lovely!

  • haha thanks dude!

    wish I knew what you was talking about however .. 😂

  • Noob question incoming :

    Was pretty sure my forks were straight, just had a quick check before I buy some forks and now I’m really not so sure. They’re disc CX wound ups.

    Any advice/help would be much appreciated!

    Thanks
    Callum


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  • I think you’re referring to the angle between the steerer and crown?
    The forks are straight blade, but still need to create an offset (equivalent to the curve in a traditional fork), hence the angle of the steerer/crown. Other options are to have dropouts forward of the blades e.g. old Pace forks.
    Offset is a measurement which can alter, 40mm or 45mm etc. No idea what you’d need to match the Woundup.
    Someone will probably explain that better than I can.

  • He means if the steerer is straight 1 1/8" or 1 1/8" to 1 1/4" tapered.
    Measure, the crown race I.D. should be 30mm for straight 1 1/8".
    https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/standardized-headset-identification-system#:~:text=The%20steering%20column%20is%2028.6,approximately%2033.8-33.9mm%20ID.

  • Thank you both for the reply. This is hilariously complicated, will get back to you soon with what I find out!

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Project: Talbot Frameworks 1x & Cinelli Mash Parallax

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