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• #2
Teeth are overrated.
It's been done before. If you're careful and drill within the clamping area I can't see it making much of a difference #notanengineeroktechnicallyanengineerbutsoftwaredoesnotreallycountinthiscase
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• #3
You will die
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• #4
Of interest: https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/315753/ ?
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• #5
Yeah thats exactly where I was imagining... The general idea led me here: http://nyvelocity.com/articles/equipment/cx-di2-live-build-with-mark-purdy/ but I have carbon bars and fork to contend with.
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• #6
Nice, so a bontrager stem could help avoid drilling the bars and resin round the steerer hole could add some strength. Hole of 5mm to squeeze the connector through, or a 3mm hole, cut it and reattach...
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• #7
The connectors aren't 5mm are they? That seems 'large'.
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• #8
Yep 5mm says the internet
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• #9
Yeah
http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=94395
Thinking about it, I filed out a hole but it was only for the wire diam. not the connector.
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• #11
I want to drill a hole in carbon bars to fit di2 wires into a stem housing a junction box, 11 speed. Then, I want to run the cables down the steerer and out of a hole into the top or down tube....
Yes, I did exactly this with aluminium bars and a carbon fork (steerer). I have been fine for 3,5 years now, which included al kinds of gravel, mud, whatever some MTB trails threw at it..
Drilled the bars:
Drilled the steerer:
Had to use a Dremel with a grinding stone for the headtube:
Than had to pull the di2 wires through after I used some fishingline and lead:
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• #12
Awesome, thanks for posting! I'll have a clear idea what I need to do when this arrives, for example how will a dremel react to Ti...
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• #13
Great build by the way that's awesome bike
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• #14
Thanks! You've got a nice one coming your was as well :)
Titanium is a bit softer than steel, so wouldn't be a problem. It took 7 grinding stones though..
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• #15
Ti doesn't conduct heat well (for a metal), your tool will absorb a lot of the heat and wear out quickly.
And many alloys have a tendency to work harden.
Getting through the head tube with a Dremel could be troublesome, considering access.
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• #16
Yeah it could be fun... project thread coming soon
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• #17
Hi Japp, do you have any photos of how the wire runs from the stem & into the steerer, past the star nut?
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• #18
None of that bothers me except the hole on the bend of the bars. That looks well sketch to me.
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• #19
Yep not keen on that either, but then again I hardly ever use the drops...
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• #20
I think the zipp sc70 ergos are the way to go on this over the fancy carbon bars I had imagined
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• #21
Happily the head tube has holes leading to the down and top tubes... options
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• #22
I'm sorry, I don't have any pictures. But I used this extra short expender plug instead of a star nut. Drilled at the lower part of the stem clamp in the steerer so it just clears the expander.
@hippy, I was lucky enough to have a whole crowd of people criticise me for drilling the bars. But after 4 years of real abuse they still don't have any cracks or signs of wear/stress/fatigue.
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• #23
I have a SL70 ergo on my Cielo.
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• #24
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• #25
Ahh I get you
Drilling carbon handlebars??
I want to drill a hole in carbon bars to fit di2 wires into a stem housing a junction box, 11 speed.
Good idea / bad idea, resin around the hole as a fix?
Then, I want to run the cables down the steerer and out of a hole into the top or down tube....
Whadda ya recon?