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• #352
Enjoying the commute now the weather here is less freezing. Took the kona on a longer route over some hills.
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• #353
This lovely Rorschach test of a tree root had had me hehehe-ing most of the way home
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• #354
Have bought a few old flites on ebay, to learn about recovering. Got a large-ish piece of thin leather and some glue. Planning to basically follow @Hulsroy 's instructions off Instagram. Started stripping the worst of the lot today.
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• #355
After a lot of careful sanding and rubbing of old glue with my thumbs.
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• #356
I know I posted in a thread about recovering old saddles a few months back, can't find it now. Anyone?
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• #357
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• #358
Thanks!
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• #359
New bars, grips, pedals and brakes on the marin. Got a solid saddle-punch in the scrotum on a descent today so finally caved and ordered a dropper post as well.
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• #360
You have excellent taste in bikes
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• #361
Thanks, that must mean you do too ;)
Cut some leather, soaked it in water and stretched it on the saddle.
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• #362
Dropper post arrived, and slipped in smoothly with a bit of grease as it were. But the cable entry thing interferes with the seatpost binder in a most annoying manner. Thinking about different solutions. Might either hack off the seatpost binder and file back or simply saw off some of the seattube. I have a nice collar I could use instead. Anyone ever done it? @Hulsroy @M_V
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• #363
Or is this mysterious bolt under the seat cradle something that might be undone and the cradle rotated, in which case I might be able to make it work after all? Either google or tomorrow will tell.
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• #364
...is this mysterious bolt under the seat cradle something that might be undone and the cradle rotated,
I don't think so but that looks like an inline post? In whch case, would you even need to rotate the cradle? You see bikes with back to front Thomson posts all the time.
If you go for using the clamp, I'd get the binder off rather than just cutting the seattube. Hacksaw/file will work but it'll take a while, it's a one or two minute job with a brazing torch to heat it up and pull it off leaving minimal filing of the brass or silver to be done but probably resulting in greater area of damaged paintwork.
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• #365
Thanks, I believe its welded and not brazed so hacksaw & file is probably the only way.
I don't need to rotate the cradle, only the lower bit of the post so the lump clears the binder bolt. But the upper part turns with the lower so need to rotate them independently and then fix them relative to eachother again. Hence the idea that the cradle might be rotatable as that would make things easier.
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• #366
I don't need to rotate the cradle...
But if it’s an inline post, just turn it around.
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• #367
I know the cradle bit is usually angled but not so much that it won’t work backwards?
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• #368
Might work but it looks unlikely to me. I'll try it later.
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• #369
Didn't work. Hacked the seat binder off.
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• #370
Result! A bit of hammerite on the bare metal and then I can route the dropper cable.
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• #371
Good solution
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• #372
Thank you. I now have a puny dropper and all is functional as far as I can tell.
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• #373
Nice.
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• #374
Droppers are the best thing since sliced bread.
Both your and the missus HT are prime frames for angleset's down the line, when you really want to get shreddy ;)
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• #375
anglesets
Idk about the P7, it's got a 65 degree HTA as it is with the 160mm fork. The marin oth has a claimed HTA of 69 degrees but as it's now got a 140mm fork it ought to be 67-68 degrees. Anyway, thanks for the input, I'll see if I feel like trying it later on!
Et voila
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