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• #27
I don't think it's within your budget, but the Sutra can look ace
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• #28
@Heldring Cotic has no front rack :( Trek 520 would do the job though.
@RuffStuff well, my old parts will be going cheap as soon as I get the new frame! I'll let you know.
@Lanterne_Rouge interesting. Any idea what it is? I'm no good at identifying frames.
@PhilDAS not yet. Someone's offered me a frame (no fork) though which could work out to be a decent option. If I end up with part of an Arkose this thread could be an even bigger letdown than DBAD.
@fizzy.bleach is that not a Sutra LTD? Like I said I have been offered a 2013 Sutra which looks great but doesn't have the biggest clearances. Test riding it tomorrow.
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• #29
@fizzy.bleach is that not a Sutra LTD? Like I said I have been offered a 2013 Sutra which looks great but doesn't have the biggest clearances. Test riding it tomorrow.
Yeah, but I'm just using the excuse to share it because it's ace!
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• #30
Definitely, looks awesome. Would be useful to get a look at both in person to see how the 2013 Sutra compares.
If I could get something similar to that LTD, but with 650b wheels and slightly narrower tyres, I'll be a happy chap
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• #31
Hulsroy is selling this for reasonable dorrah.
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• #32
this thread could be an even bigger letdown than DBAD
The suspense is killing me!
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• #33
Have borrowed the Kona for the weekend to make some measurements and inspections. What should I check before I decide?
- 700c clearance
- 650b clearance
- general inspection for rust etc.
Anything else?
It's in pretty good nick aside from being sat for couple of years unused. The Brooks is in especially nice condition!
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- 700c clearance
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• #34
That's verging on a Frankenbike and is therefore right up my alley, but I'm pretty set on discs for this bike. Especially considering the troubles I've had with the cantis on my other bike.
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• #35
I'd straighten that seatpost though
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• #36
Yeah, I've not done any adjusting to the seatpost or bars yet.
Looks like it'd clear 650b × 42? Chainstay is the tightest part. All measured 320mm from axle
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• #37
All measured 320mm from axle
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• #38
So 52mm minus 5mm clearance each side is a 42mm tyre right?
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• #39
Yup. Pretty generous clearances even, depending on the type of riding you're planning to do.
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• #40
Here's an attempt at a geometry comparison thing. Reach is a bit shorter on the Kona but a 110mm or 120mm stem might be bang on.
https://i.imgur.com/xPFdW9d.gifv
Thinking very hard about this now!
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• #41
Kona looks to be in pretty good nick. I'd just go for that.
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• #42
I think it'll just about clear a 622x40. Will borrow a friends wheel to check (hopefully tomorrow). Looks like it might do the job though.
Things to do if I get it:
- buy some low-riders or some other sort of front rack
- sort out front guards - it's a shame only one of them's disappeared; I have to either source a matching front one, have non-matching ones or throw the rear away.
- longer stem, remove some spacers
- swap these brakes for HY/RDs or something similar. These are Hayes CX5 and don't seem great so far. Might be alright with some adjustment or new pads though. And maybe new rotors too.
- remove dork disc obviously
- new tyres, possibly new wheels as the rear especially feels pretty hefty. Maybe keep these for touring as they look pretty bombproof.
- swap over bottle cages, groupset, etc. from old bike
- new cables, new tape, etc. - all round service
- consider a full-length-outer conversion?
It's a long way away from an Arkose...
- buy some low-riders or some other sort of front rack
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• #43
Dork disc?
Also, if you're keeping the bar end shifters you could go for trp hylex.
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• #44
Yeah the little plastic disk by the cassette. They annoy me. Very minor issue
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• #45
Have you considered Juin Tech brake calipers? They get raving reviews and are cheaper than HY/RDs.
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• #46
I googled them once and it looked like they were more expensive. But definitely open to something else, yeah. I'll take a look
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• #47
Liking the Kona, I'd use that and try to pimp it with good stuff, you can always swap frame at a future date.
I have full outers in my GT. Cables don get dirty, but cleaning the bike is a hassle. May not worth it with mudguards -
• #48
That's a plan. I like it. You'll like the Kona I'll be it's rock solid handling. Double subbed to this now there's a plan.
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• #49
Okay, 95% sure I'm going to go for this Kona. It's pretty comfortable to ride with a shorter top-tube compared to my road bike.
Questions:
I'm wondering, should I keep the Brooks? It's in great condition but I think I'd prefer something a bit racier.
What are the best 700×38 road-ish tyres that can handle a little bit of gravel and mud?
Are there any cheap 100×15mm dynamo hubs out there? It would be great to have a front wheel that would fit my 29er and this bike but all the hubs I've seen are either £200 or QR. How much faff is it to swap a dynamo wheel from one bike to another?
The rims are Freedom Ryder 21, hubs are Shimano FH-M525A. Unknown spokes. But basically the wheels feel super heavy. Can I build/buy a lighter wheelset for cheap that'll be sturdy enough for smashing around off-road? Switching from cheap ~1600g 18 spoke roadie wheels to these is going to make me slightly sad.
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• #50
Tyre wise, I use gravelking sks, they're great off road and none too sluggish on it. What's your budget for new wheels? Maybe summat like dt Swiss r460 rims with the best hubs you can afford. I run mavic a719 rims on Shimano xt hubs, not light, but then they are on a Surly Cross Check, so it doesn't matter, and it's the most enjoyable bike I've owned (and I've owned a few).
Saddle wise, just use what your bum likes and what you like the look of (secondary importance, as most of the time you can't see it).
Have you got an Arkose yet?