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• #752
Like Matt says... for good adhesion, you need a key in the substrate. This will be visible as you build up colour products... the lack of a key is why CromoVelato finishes fall off easily after chipping.
If we're working directly over chromed or stainless steel (or Ti etc), we can do 'Cromo Velato' style effects at Cole Coatings Workshop using 'Direct Adhesion' products. These are products designed to be used without standard primers but they have no anti-corrosion properties and act only as a barrier to the elements - hence they're better suited to materials that won't rust.
We definitely wouldn't recommend this effect over the textured/pitted surface left behind following media blasting. As smooth a surface as possible will give the best effect.
As Matt has said, similar finishes can be achieved using chrome effect paint products or good quality silvers in a more standard candy application. This however brings with it the problems that are associated with the use of silver paints - all the painters here will know this... for silver, a smooth finish is needed... any imperfection or prep mark in the substrate or the primer will be visible in the final finish if it is not removed.
One further thing to know is that candy/ink/dye style products are somewhat limited in their colour choices compared to the vast array of 'normal' paints out there and additionally, given that they have some translucency, these products get darker as more layers are built up so you can't always choose the EXACT colour you want.
Hope that's helpful.
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• #753
Thank you both for your detailed replies. Iβll do some thinking (as to if I want all the paint or fall off or not!)
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• #754
So much going on here I didn't think one or two photos would suffice.
A friends paid me to repaint his bike, I agreed on the condition that I was able to paint it how I liked.
This is the result
http://www.instagram.com/colinlikesbikes/ to keep up with the things I'm welding and painting. -
• #755
Saw this on IG. The splatter is not my thing but I can appreciate the work involved. I like the fadez too!
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• #756
Thatβs savage. It looks like that Peugeot colour scheme, but itβs been on the absinthe
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• #757
I have a no name badly painted Columbus Air frame and forks that needs some kind or radical fadez/splatter.. this is strong
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• #758
Hello all... we currently have an active 20% discount code for our webstore which is active until midnight Friday.
All the 'House Specials' are sold out for 2019 but if you were thinking about coming along and doing our paint course, it's currently reduced by Β£160 if you use code 'BLACKFRIDAY20' at checkout.
https://colecoatingsworkshop.com/store/
Apologies in advance... I'm gonna post this same message in a couple of relevant threads so anyone interested might see it - ADMIN: please delete if not appropriate.
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• #759
Why not get it chrome plated?
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• #760
That is the dogs Pollocks
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• #761
I can't link from instagram to here. But it's a video of a set of handlebars using thermochromic paint. Paint which dissapears when it gets hot.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BsL_1cGFBoE/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet
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• #762
Hey guys... looking for some info on this.
Is it just a colored clearcoat ?
I want to repaint a carbon frame this way...
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• #763
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• #764
Only kidding, looks ace!
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• #765
"Mr blobby chainsaw incident" is the paint swatch name. :)
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• #766
It can be done with an ink or dye in the clearcoat but that's not best practice if you wish to polish the clearcoat afterwards.
At CCW, we apply a tinted 'direct adhesion' clearcoat.
It's basically part primer, part clear and we add ink to it.
We then clearcoat directly over the top of that.Applying the white graphics over the top without colour bleeding is particularly skilful.
Whoever did this knows their onions.The colours available are somewhat limited and it is a pain to capture well in a photo.
Most costly part of a finish like this is having the original factory finish safely removed from your carbon frameset (if it hasn't come straight from the factory in a raw state).
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• #767
Applying the white graphics over the top without colour bleeding is
particularly skilful. Whoever did this knows their onions.Intercoat-clear; post vinyl stencil, but pre white?
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• #768
@privatepatterson thanks for the info! Seems like a difficult task to achieve here in Bulgaria :D
I'm removing the original paint myself... it's a pain in the ass! -
• #769
Yeah. For sure. That would definitely be one method of approach... Then allowing it an appropriate curing time and then abrading it before applying your masking vinyl. I would choose that option if painting white base over say, red base but perhaps not in every case involving a candy (or in a fade/complex pattern) just because the colour and depth of the candy is so heavily determined in the application so any type of hiccup makes a repair a myth.
The timings are essential in that scenario because the intercoat clear is effectively adding more solvent which can reactivate the candy and cause it to bleed even more!
For a real safe bet, I'd perhaps give a full clearcoat over the green candy, work on something else while it cured, then wet flat it and apply the graphics over the top and then flowcoat the final clear. This would give you a fully safe barrier between the candy and the white basecoat. It would also give you a deeper prism for a rich glossy clear over the pigment and could potentially help you blend the raised edge of the graphics and make flatting and polishing it smooth a lot easier!
The graphics appear quite flat from the photo too... if you read the reflection of the light as it moves over the actual text it is straight rather than undulating over the letters.
Its only one image but as a paint nerd who spends all his time in the workshop, there's a lot in this for me to enjoy/appreciate.
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• #770
It's not strictly difficult for a good refinisher but it's a lot of work so it can be expensive.
I wish you luck in rawing the frame... It's the WORST job!
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• #771
GCN does @hoops
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• #772
Just watching that. Apt that GCN sent a presenter who is an entertaining as watching paint dry. Dullard.
Would like a Carharrt apron for messing about in the garage.
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• #773
Nice one @hoops
Odd scenario where you'd think the paint nerd would be the boring one and the presenter would be trying to draw any ounce of charisma and charm out of them like blood from a stone, when actually it feels like the complete opposite.
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• #774
The only bit where the presenter showed any emotion was when he turned to the camera and said, "how cool is that?"
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• #775
Maybe if @hoops had lacquered him, it would have brought out some character.
And the fake chrome underneath.
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