Custom Paint - Workshop specials.

Thanks again - would applying a thin layer of vegetable oil on the laquer before tape help with less bonding?

Sadly, I can't speak to the individual properties of different tapes combined with cooking fats!

I think perhaps that would stop the tape doing it's job.
Before tape application, we'd use a degreaser so the glue on the tape can do its job properly.
If you apply vegetable oil, the tape won't do that.

Self-amalgamating tape?

Its non-sticky but sticks to itself when stretched

I can't speak to the individual properties of different tapes combined with cooking fats!

I found a different solution - but I have applied cooking fats and duct tape on a small part of the frame, will report back mid-July.

1 Attachment

If it looks stupid but it works, it isn't stupid right?

Latest attempt to update a classic steel frame.
Orange main coat was done at a local spray shop, then I added the grey and decals and it went back for a clear coat.
Unfortunately the photo unfairly emphasises the very minor difference in the shade of grey between the spray and decals - which only became apparent once they were applied. I think its the base colour showing through.
Going to build it up with (silver) triple 7800 groupset Mavic 719's and 'cross tyres for a nice, light, chuckable off-roader for bombing round the New Forest.

1 Attachment

Built.
7800 triple. Schwalbe CX Pro, Mavic 719's, XT hubs, Cinelli 1A.

1 Attachment

Been trying to UTFS but can't find it - what's the best product to strip frames? If I mix Nitro Mors and dichloromethane will it work better and will I die?

Starchem Synstrip and a hazmat suit.

Speedy response, thanks! So can I do it on my balcony with a pair of me mam's marigolds or will my skin fall off

It burns your skin a little... then it burns a lot - it will visibly mark your skin.
Stings like being tattooed and then throbs like sunburn afterwards.
You can wash it off with cold water though.

You'll need gloves and goggles at the very least.
Some gloves will be destroyed by the product.

Pain it on with a brush, wait for it to start working and then rub it off with red scotch.

Perfect, thanks for the info.
Hopefully one day I'll get you to paint a frame for me, some amazing work on here!

Thank you.

What's your substrate material?
If it's stainless/aluminium/Ti, you can blob the stuff on and use use a pressure washer to hose it off.
You'll be done in 90 minutes.

That's a good idea, have a pressure washer and more space at work. I do actually have protective gear too, was more wondering just how careful I need to be.

Have two alu frames, carbon forks and a steel frame that need doing. I've been enjoying experimenting with rattlecans and dreaming of having more space for a slightly more pro set up!
Thinking about trying out flip paint next, don't know how good it will be out of a can though

Thinking about trying out flip paint next, don't know how good it will be out of a can though

@TvH had some good results with flip paint from a can.

For a 725 frameset what method would you recommend, this chemical method or just a gental soda blast? Got some surface rust too

Sounds good.

If its not already obvious, you can't use the paint stripper on your carbon parts... it's fine on some brands and will destroy the resins on others... you can't find out until it's too late so just use 240grit.

I refinish for a living so I tend to turn my nose up at rattle cans in general.
A rattle can is either "on" or "off" whilst a professional HVLP setup has many variables that can be tweaked in order to get perfect product application throughout and be further tinkered with for different products.

For about £200 at Screwfix, you could get yourself a DIY compressor and a couple of guns and be using 'proper' products after a few hours tinkering.

The real tricky stages are the prep and the clear... basecoat can be manipulated, retouched, mended... even really complex designs are just about working out the order of operations. If the priming and prep is poor, you might as well have not bothered 'cause your paint will fall off and if the clear is poor quality or not applied well, your paint will fall off in a stiff breeze.

You can only get better with practice.

Yeah that was great, that's what inspired me! Think he said it lost the effect after a while though? Guess I could just do it again with my new gallon of synstryp, new paint every week

Depends on how much time you have and how you value that time.
Both are fine.

Red scotch attached to one of these will make light work of any mild corrosion...

A mild blast will leave a texture in the surface which can be useful as a 'key' for product but if the blaster doesn't know bikes, they can potentially damage threads or more annoyingly, get the blast medium stuck in the frame... no matter how hard you try, it will fall out at the crucial moment and ruin your finish... always.

Unfortunately space is the limiting factor, my living room already looks like a shop and my flatmates have a breaking point... Definitely something to consider for the future though. It's mainly due to having some frames with really ugly, bad condition paint, any finish would be better!
Maybe I should save up and get my favourite frame done by a pro - I do enjoy the learning process and creative aspect though, bodged as it is

You should book yourself on one of our 'Introduction to Paint' courses.

You'll walk away with a high-end finish on a bike; you'll have hands-on experience with professional equipment and products, and you'll have repeatable skills and techniques you can implement on future finishes.

FWIW, our portfolio and Instagram don't show even half of the work we undertake... there are 'simple' or straightforward finishes we can apply with a relatively short turnaround and not an excessive budget. Drop me an email via the site if you want to get something looking clean and back on the road.

Cool, I'll have a look, plenty to consider. Thanks for all your help, really appreciate it. This forum is a fantastic place sometimes

I’m thinking of having my new frame painted in matte olive drab, where should I take it?
Saw one in matte brown, such a huge difference compared to the usual shiny finish you see on 99% of frames out there.
I never had custom paint done so any suggestions would be much appreciated.

Just leave it as a thought and don't do it...

Matte finishes are difficult to paint.
They are more expensive than gloss.
They're not as strong as gloss finishes.
They can't be touched up or blown in if damaged.
They can't be polished.
They must factor for a greater amount of surface inclusion during finishing.

If you still really want a matte finish after reading that, drop any one of the refinishers an email. Then when it's done, get it wrapped at CycleWrap.

You can get in touch with us via the Cole Coatings Workshop website if you like. There's also Dr Bobby, Ali Fat Creations, Jack Kingston, Blue Whippet, Enigma, Windymilla etc

Add to that, they are a pain to keep clean.