The Klein CAAD12

Last bit now is for some Red 22 BB30 cranks

HY/RD are sooooo heavy though

Already been thinking about "upgrading" to TRP Spyre SLC coz carbon

I'd pass on throwing more money at the brakes and hunt some hydros when finances allow. Mines have been running for thousands of miles with no problems, daily winter commutes included

I now have some Juin Tech R1 and yokozuna cables spare if you want?

hmmm....

Both black btw

Agree with this

Again, I won't be going hydro. I have sram red 22 on it. The equivalent levers in hydro will cost 500 quid. Otherwise going cheaper would improve braking while compromising on shifting, feel and weight.

How many penny?

@spotter could be interested in a second dibs situation

Say £100? Can throw in some rotors too, but they'll be non matching.

I’ve got one of these if it’ll help make your life any easier? Unsure if standard Sram red cranks will work with it though

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Think I'd need some kind of NDS step down to 22mm shim. I'd rather take advantage of BB30 if my frame has it though. Even if it takes longer. Still got this weird BB30a thing to get my head around. I don't even know if Red22 cranks can work in it.

Thanks for the offer, I'm gonna pass I think. I'd rather put the money towards the cranks to get it going for now.
Cheers

I have that adaptor, so many creak-free miles. That said, here is a bit pointless, SRAM gpx is 100gr heavier than BB30, and with the adaptor may be even heavier. Good if you want to run Shimano tough, would recommend.

Just going back to the cabled brakes issue (don't do it! No really, don't!) I think swedeee or maybe Dick started their CAAD10 with one of those adapters, and it didn't leave any space for a brake cable run. Moot if you do go BB30, but thought it worth pointing out. I run the MFG adapters on my CAAD10 and have had a years worth of creak free miles but I think that has something to do with @Chak doing a great job on the installation for me

Never seen a CAAD12 bb up close but could the rear cable just come out the bottom of the bb instead of going through the chainstay?

Potentially but I wouldn’t personally.
I’m thinking of running full length compressionless and maybe putting two joins in with a female to female ferrule so I can use a short ~10cm length of non compressionless, more bendy bit for around the BB. It’s really fucking tight without stiff cables.

I can only speak for the 10, but I think they're the same, in which case it wouldn't help much without a drill being used I think.

Has anyone suggested you try full hydro instead?

@PhilDAS

Where can one get an Alu frame stripped and for how much?
Its just the commuter so cheaper is better

But you won’t go full hydro?

;-)

£20 for sandblasting and £500 for hydro is a bit of a jump. And I’m not stripping this frame yet anyway

@duckland has a CAAD10 with cable discs. They work very well actually. People are defo whining for no reason

caliper brakes also work well.