-
• #2
^ sounds a bit ballsy as all you're doing is prestressing the stack which I do by hand with an allen key, (ENVE say 1.6Nm) I use the front brake test for any wobble after torquing the stem bolts to 5Nm. Theres a lot of theory on here that says you should have one spacer above the stem, so the stem bolts are not effectively making the top of the fork into a cone shape under compression which can cause the headset to come loose.
-
• #3
Bearing preload via the top cap bolt is not 6Nm. It's enough for the fork to turn smoothly without play in the headset.
The stem pinch bolts will be a specific torque - should be on the stem.
-
• #4
Yes 6Nm felt like way over doing it. Wasn't comfortable about it. Also I feel that level of tension between the top cap and the wedge is likely to unseat the wedge. I'll probably slacken it off when I get home. Carbon fibre is scary, I'm scared I'll do something stupid and wind up with a piece of junk
-
• #5
Yeah, stem bolt torque says 4 to 6 Nm on stem pinch bolts. But it says 6Nm on the top cap and on the PDF manual I downloaded.
-
• #6
I heard about someone junking a CF frame putting on a front derailleur. So I feel your pain.
-
• #7
I think 6Nm may be the torque for the bung/wedge
Given crank preload is less than 1Nm the idea of 6Nm for a headset is ridiculous.
-
• #8
Over tightened or not, you've applied preload and there's still play?
-
• #9
Yeah @dancing james 6Nm is stamped on the top cap but that's the torque for the wedge clamp accessed through it. That and the PDF manual diagrams confused me (was late at night). Thing is that the steering hasn't locked up like I would have expected. Hope the whole thing dosen't implode before I get home to fix it.
-
• #11
Glad to have helped
-
• #12
love a happy ending...
-
• #13
Thanks all.
I got a new Cannondale Synapse disc last Autumn. I've been having a problem with play in the headset which was persisting although I kept preloading it in the way I've been used to. I have to say that its the first bike I've owned with a full carbon fork, every other reasonably up to date machine I own has one of those star washer devices rather than the expanding wedge device in the Cannondale .To do things by the book I decided to buy a suitable torque wrench as up to now I've just owned the sort that operates in the cyclinder head bolt torque range. Last night I took the forks out cleaned everything up and put it back together, hopefully in the right order. The torque setting for the bearings is 6 nm and having now set this up with a torque wrench rather than guesswork I realise that 6nm feels massive for this situation, I would have expected the steering to be locked up pretty solid at this torque but everything feels smooth and fine. I assume this headset works differently and doesn't require preload and the torque setting is what's required to hold everything in place.
Another thing, the Cannondale intruction says that all spacers should be below the stem, non above so that the top cap and wedge assembly can support the clamping force of the stem around the fork. Mine came out of the shop with one spacer above the stem so I moved this below
Guessing lots of folk on here have experience with this sort of setup and can advise if it sounds like I've done things right.