I keep stripping wheels?!

Yeah, fit the cog with a chain whip. You'll get it much tighter.

If you're exerting more force with the skids than you are on accelerating with your bulging thighs, then surely the answer is to switch everything to the left side. Coolness points go through the roof and might get a gorgeous presenter with foul shoes pointing at your "leftness".

I can't work out if my suggestion is absolute genius or pure idiocy...

That does make sense, but I actually don't have that much leg power. It's just that I would assume a lot of force goes into my skids because I'm a decently heavy dude.

@M_V I do put it on with a chain whip, I just ride it around before putting a lockring on for some sort of sense of additional security. My cog is always on very tight

You probably loosen it when you slow down. Then your lock ring goes on top but does not lock the sprocket when the lock ring is tightened.

Okay - I'll accept that I don't put cogs on properly, then. Still, when my cog is put on by an actual mechanic, I still manage it

Do you tighten the lockring again after you've ridden it for a period? My guess is that the sprocket tightens after the lockring has been fitted.

Even a little slack between the two will eventually, over repeated skids, strip the lockring threads.

Have you been using the same sprocket and lockring? Have you tried fitting both, then trying to undo the sprocket to see if there is any slack between the two?

I don't remember reading of anyone else stripping so many threads, so it seems that there is something wrong with your set-up: it's not likely that you have had the bad luck to buy so many defective hubs.

The short answer (as mentioned earlier) is to use a converted disc hub: as the forum's favourite, curmudgeonly know-it-all is fond of saying "using threads to transmit torque, is something that makes engineers cry".

Hi.

Yes, as mentioned before, I do carry a chain whip, and tighten my lockring after I've been riding it. Usually on this first ride, I will use a front brake or foot jam- as not to put any backwards force on my cog. I then tighten it up regularly, because I've stripped so many, but it just seems to keep on happening

Have you always used the same lockring?

I reckon if your chainwhip technique is correct then riding the bike won't be making the cog any tighter. Reason I say this is that I can fit a cog with a chainwhip and no lockring for a 100kg+ sprinter with 2k+ watts in their legs and they can skip skid and trackstand on that without it coming loose.

I know there's a difference between that and whip skidding down the hipster spice route but when track standing they are pretty much riding backwards up a gradient.

They can also do standing starts and sprint efforts ie put all of that 2k+ watts into the drivetrain and nothing strips and the cog comes off easily with a chainwhip.

Given that you've had repeated failures I'd have said the fault lay with either your technique or your equipment (cog, lockring, tools). You say you've had 'an actual mechanic' fit your stuff and its happened though so that maybe removes your technique from the equation but, fitting a cog and lockring isn't something that I'd ever entrust to anyone else and I know/work with some pretty good mechs.

Have you always used the same lockring?

This has been asked a few times, it might be the million dollar question.

@ShutUpBlud it's worth saying as well that is is possible to do a lockring up too tight and damage the threads that way. My general rule of thumb is arm strength only, no added body weight when tightening it.

@Sumo @Scilly.Suffolk @M_V Okay, I realise my mistake now. I used to put my lockring on arm tight, but started using much more power, after I had stripped my first hub - I've likely been over-tightening. The mechanic is always one that I know personally - good mechanics who I would trust with my life. However, I see that I should just be using a decent chainwhip, and a moderate amount of power, and all should be fine.

I don't use the same lockring, I always make sure that it's right for the hub - and I've varied thickness, with little effect.

I'll get a decent hub, a decent cog, and put it on with decent tools, and follow the instructions I've been given here - hopefully that will be the end of it.

Thanks, everyone!

If you just get a bolt on cog and hub, you'll know that'll be the end of it. No stresses of ruining an inferior design hub.

You say you've had 'an actual mechanic' fit your stuff and its happened though so that maybe removes your technique from the equation but, fitting a cog and lockring isn't something that I'd ever entrust to anyone else and I know/work with some pretty good mechs.

Quite: it introduces someone else's technique into the equation. Halfords employ "mechanics"...

This has been asked a few times, it might be the million dollar question.

There's slack somewhere...

[posted before I saw OP reply]

Fair point - I was going to stay clear of that because I wanted a disc/actual track wheel, so I think the solution will to put a disc hub on my commuter, and a wheel with a good quality track hub on my nice bike

Sounds good to me

get a Dura Ace sprocket and lockring too. If you can't get a DA then go for EAI.

I have some of these for sells. Just saying.

I've always used DA cogs, but never lockrings - that would be the logical thing to do

I may buy those when I sell my Vigorelli. I have no cash at the moment. Otherwise, the plan was to get some Phil's

I wanted a disc/actual track wheel

You're not going to skid that are you?

You should bet the fuck not

Facepalm

Just checking.

:)

Just having a nose through the classifieds and noticed these.

Don't know if they're any good for you?

EDIT: I was referring to the wheels!