Cannondale SuperSubFive (kg) Hill Climb Machine

Bit of progress today. Let's hope I don't have to adjust the setback on the saddle.

5 Attachments

Not enough holes in the brake levers and gear lever ;-)
Looking good though

Lovin it.
Speshindale :)

A SS conversion of a dale is in the EC1 thread, you score more HHSB points ( i think) for drilling off the FD mount.

Are the seat rail clamp bolts steel ? you could trim them right down, shave a few more grams off :)

Loving the build and details and drillium. Look forward to it's first race :)

Bet that seat post cracks.

It might, but then it only cost me a few quid so I won't be too sad.

Y u no like thread?

They're titanium so wouldn't save much. I had to grind down the brake mounting bolt to get it to fit though. Never taken an angle grinder to titanium before. White sparks!

Really enjoying this thread! Keep it up man

How much does that spider and ring combo weigh?

5g saving if you lose some length on the derailleur cable housing :)

At roughly 40g a meter I'd have to loose quite a bit to make a difference.

Might anyway though. A gram is a gram, just need to get a wheel into it and see how it shifts. I'm new to SRAM.

Probabably more than a direct mount ring but they're expensive and I couldn't find one in 38/39/40t.

The spider is about 40g and the ring is 75g, but I've got a lighter one in the post.

I had read somewhere that SRAM needed a longer loop than Shimano for some reason. This was a while ago, so not sure if derailleur design has changed since.

How much do you reckon the paint weighs? No idea how much getting it stripped back to raw would be and your thoughts on aesthetics...

100g, £300, it'd look sick.

Having bought a frame where someone had done that (and had it repainted), I wouldn't bother - it is a really long, hard job to get the old paint fully stripped, and then you'll worry about whether you've gone too far and weakened it.

First I would consider the way you clamp the bike on the stand. Squshing carbon frame on the seattube is bad idea. Squshing carbon in general is bad idea. Bike should bike hanging on the top tube tightened just to level of not moving to much.

That was just for photos, it's got a cheapo alu seatpost in it for clamping purposes.

If the spider positions the chainring inline with the spider-crank interface, you could see if Fibrelyte will make you a DM chainring. Their chainrings page only lists bolted chainring options, but they're all made to order anyway. Might need to send them the spider if the spline specs aren't published.

Why not get a doubleiser and then you only have to use one brake lever, could even use a single aero on on the other side of the horn.

Also, nokon style cables will save a good few grams too no?

also you can cut half the BB cable guide off and remove that sticker from the back of the cranks.

In that case....sounds like an excellent plan

@cjr suggested a doubaliser, not sure it would be CTT legal, and it'd only save about 20g - the lever it would replace is only 37g.

Nokon, yes, but Aican Bungarus, but I don't want to spend £50 and wait ages for Taiwan delivery to save 30g.

Sticker is going, mainly for aesthetics. Despite it being a mishmash chosen for weight / cost, it's actually looking pretty neat.

Bollocks - way worse clamping it on the top tube - always clamp via seatpost.

Cross top levers aren't CTT legal either (but if Tadros & co. get away with it...).
I vote single bar end brake lever and doubliser :-)

(b) On tricycles and tandem tricycles, two brakes may operate on the
front wheel but otherwise the braking systems must operate
independently on both front and rear wheels.