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• #27
This^
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• #28
Cables on point! Like you, flites are my go-to saddle but never stumped up for a new one. First impressions? #askingthebigquestions
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• #29
All the symmetry!
But if the LH cable was run into the RH boss (and vice versa) and the inners crossed under the DT, the curve would be smoother (less friction) and they wouldn't be tight up against the HT (no paintrub),
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• #30
Ah come on too early for the money shot! anyway there's the small matter of no transmission and wheels yet.
@Scilly.Suffolk , agreed crossing the wires is generally a good idea , and I did try this first, but the gear inner wires touch the bottom of the downtube and the resulting noise would have driven me fecking nuts. -
• #31
Lovely bike!
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• #33
great idea , will look into it.
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• #34
Bit of a result on the wheel front today. I work in the bicycle industry and one of my long time suppliers offered me these at a silly price, on the proviso I use on the Masi and don't resale them!!
American Classic Argent's , they seem to tick all the boxes;
Light at 1392g , but not carbon or deep section.
Conventional spokes , and spare rim availability , just in case I ding them !
They're look good ! much better than previous versions ,that looked like they'd been sticker bombed by a 10 year old.
Tubeless - really keen to try tubeless out .
Fitted a pair of Schwalbe Pro Ones , they're 23mm but look more like 25mm on the wide AC rims. -
• #35
Im not sure about American classics on an a full Italian build... but the wheels look nice.
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• #36
short top tube+my long arms+Eddy position=13cm Stem
<3
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• #37
Finally got hold of one of the 'must have' parts for my dream build - Super Record 5 arm UT chainset , not the standard model , but the titanium axle model, a snip at £200 , not bad considering these were over £600 new. Being SR, they also come with CULT ceramic bearing.
First a bit of frame prep;
Chasing the threads with a VAR tap , mainly to clear out the 'compound' left by previous Shimano BB.
Facing the BB shell , actually in this case , as it turned out, pretty unnecessary , as it was perfect. I'd like to think Alberto Masi himself, cracked opened his Campag frame builders tool kit and did the job , in his (always) immaculate overalls, at the Vigorelli workshop.
Fitting a pair of SR UT cups , as these cups do actually wear and they're cheap to buy, it makes sense to only fit new ones . SR cups don't have seals so only use the them with CULT bearings.
Seen here being tightened to the old school torque setting of' just nip it up son'.
Fitting the cranks , remembering the clip on the R/H cup and the wavy washer on the L/H cup
You definitely need use a torque wrench on the centre bolt , I've seen a few bolts with snapped off heads through over tightening , just for added amusement this bolt has a L/H thread on the SR Ti model !
Super gorgeous and super free running chainset.
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• #38
Very nice, I'm jealous of your chasing / facing tools ;)
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• #39
This is a lovely project.
Out of interest, that bar tape? what is it?! -
• #40
Cheers , bar tape is refreshingly not very boutique , but it is very good http://claudbutler.co.uk/product/anti-slip-bar-tape/
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• #41
Perfect thanks, it's a nice subtle tape without branding all over it, very nice, and suits the build. Looking forward to seeing this come together man
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• #42
Beautiful build, exquisitely executed. Thanks for sharing.
I have that same crankset on my Condor Acciaio, also an eBay bargain. Took me a while to work out the Ti bolt was LH thread, all the other UT cranksets are RH I believe?
Some very nice tooling you have there too. Snap On 1/2" ratchet? Very pro, and that Super B stand looks like a quality piece of kit as well.
My 50th coming up in two years, might have to convince myself (and the other half) that I deserve something very similar.
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• #43
Thanks , been doing it for 30 years , so I have a built up a collection of quality tools. The Super B stand is really handy , being so light , great when I work at events also perfect for working on aero carbon bikes that don't fit on conventional stands.
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• #44
Right , so things are going to start to get a bit technical now , so bear with me . Now that I have a set of the latest 2016+ Campag SR Ultra-Shifters , I'm fully committed to running the latest Campag deraillaurs , including the rear deraillaur with it's 'embrace' technology , basically the chain wraps around the cassette a bit more and the upper jockey wheel stays closer to the cassette . All good so far , until I started reading through Campag's tech docs and came across this;
According to Campag any hanger outside of these specifications can lead to a serious loss of performance , and guess what , the Masi well outside , with a longer hanger , L is 33mm. Shit , I was beginning to think that I'd dropped a bollock here. But having thought about it, and warning, it's all theory from now on , I think I can make it all work , as long as I don't use a 11t or (possibly) 12t up casstte, it should all work as Campag intended with the added bonus , because the hangers is that much longer I should be able to easily exceed Campag SR's max 29t, hopefully upto 32t , which would be great for the mountains and should stave off the dreaded compact for at least a couple of years!
Which brings us neatly to gear ratio's . Now I'm an ex racer so like close ratio gears, but I'm also a very ex racer so big gears (100"+) would be wasted on me , conversely I can still climb quite well , I can get up anything in the Chilton's on a 39x28. So here's my gear ratio solution;
Shimano Ultegra 14-28t 11 speed , yes it's not Campag , but it will work fine, trust me! -
• #45
Good work. Although 53/14 is not a particularly high top gear.....
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• #46
Still waiting for the final parts too materialize , may as well get on with fitting the front mech.
Latest generation SR
Campag make a special guide tool for fitting these , as it has to be spot on , I don't have the tool
So I used a 2.5mm Akey to get the height right , then used a straight edge to get the cage parallel to the outer ring.
This version has a little adjustable lever that acts as an additional brace, mainly for poor unfortunates with Cervelo's and the like, with flexible front mech. brackets, a bit 'belt and braces' on a steel frame. -
• #47
Impressive build. Tooling is on point!
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• #48
So I just couldn't find a top notch SR rear mech. for the right money, so I ended up with this
It'a brand new Record , the bloke I bought off was going to use it on a 'stealth build'so he acertoned from graphics off, then being a (rich) fickle youth , changed his mind , still cost me £140 , can't believe I just spent £140 on a rear mech! still at least I can get on with the build.
So whats the first thing you do with a brand new Campag mech? take it apart of coarse.
WTF? Ok, so I took it apart to mess with the cage spring settings, in an attempt to get the upper jockey wheel closer to the sprockets to be within Campag's spec , the default setting is the middle hole , I'm going to the left hole, which should do the trick. Remember , I'm only having to do this because of the long hanger on the Masi , please don't try this unless you know what you're doing!
The latest Campag Chorus/Record/SR 11 speed mechanical gear change is superb, but only if it's set up 100% , hence all the fecking around , which brings us to gear hanger alignment
A few measurements using my Cyclus hanger tool and a vernier showed the hanger was a 'knats cock' out , the deftest of pulls and it's now perfect. -
• #49
This truly is your magnum opus, awesome tooling and rear mech tinkering skills
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• #50
I never knew such bits of metal existed. This is the best thing ever.
can we have a driveside shot?