Tubeless Tyres -"saying the same things about tubeless tyres over and over again" Hippy read the first f**king post

I bought some cheap valve caps on aliexpress which have the valve core remover built in. I assumed I can't forget them if they're on every tubeless wheel.

I bet this is more expensive, still gets holes in it, and has no industry-agreed inner diameter.

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Won't somebody think of the amateur arts and crafts enthusiasts
https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2022/aug/26/no-country-for-roll-men-tubeless-toilet-paper-a-catastrophe-says-blue-peter-star

The use case is still sfab

Lol.

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anyone had any success with Michelin pro4 endurance v2 mounted tubeless before I waste a load of time and energy this weekend?
different information on compatibility depending on where you look...
(wiggle says yes, CRC says no)
and I can't find any info on the Michelin site

They are not officially tubeless compatible but assume you know this and are retrofitting(?).
Used them for years with very very few punctures, not sure they are worth the hassle of trying to make work tubeless.

if anyone is junking old innertubes with removeable valve cores (especially ones with long valves) I use these instead of buying tubeless valves, please send me some, I'll pay for postage.

tubes it is! cheers!

OK here’s my, OKO report:

I’m using OKO Off Road at £10/1.25l. Diluting 1:1.

Found an industrial staple in my tyre this morning, pulled it out leaving two holes side by side with air whistling out. Rotated wheel and both holes sealed instantly. Very impressed.

So, as you have to dilute it, I’m getting 2.5l of sealant for £10. And it works. Happy with that.

Out of interest, why does it need diluted?

(I’m trying Silca, although your earlier “bad batch” comment did make me think twice.)

It’s formulated for tractor tyres and the associated holes that would deflate one, so is very thick. Someone on Singletrack forum contacted OKO to ask them about diluting and they suggested 1:1 with water. Later they released a bicycle sealant product that was thinner for an inflated price. I’d rather not pay for the service as I know how to operate a tap.

They sent me a replacement bottle no questions asked so I was happy with that. But the Silca sealant is not water based, which can make a sticky mess. OKO is very easy to clean up.

Also Silca can’t be installed through a valve as the carbon strands will block it.

Thanks snoops, and for the info about Nutrak.

When I first read that some sealants were water soluble it did make me wonder how they would work in wet conditions but presumably the plug itself, when it forms and dries, is not water soluble.

I have only just started with the Silca so no significant mess as yet, what little there was seemed to roll up and come off OK. Getting it on clothes would be a different matter I guess.

When I added the Silca at first, it seemed to take a bit longer than I had hoped to seal an existing hole (I used a previously tubed tyre) but fingers crossed. It is quite clumpy in the bottle, I am still not sure if I have mixed it as thoroughly as I’d like. No way would it go through a valve, even with the stem out. Got it in and tyre reseated without fuss though, using an Airshot.

Let’s see how it goes...

This is our quest.

Is muc off sealant good for anything apart from painting your bike pink when you puncture? Doesn’t seem to seal for shit.

It’s been the best one I’ve tried personally (only used Schwalbe and stans normal one before, though)

I've heard this but also heard that it's the best. Seems weird. Did you shake well before applying?

I cannot be 100%, but I would stake most of my money on the answer to this being “no” because I am a huge dumbass.

In related news, just spent a fun hour or so wrestling the tyre on and off my mountain bike only to realise that I put the fucking thing back on with the little rotation arrow pointing the wrong cocking way, so I can look forward to getting covered in sealant (again) when I undo that particular error tomorrow.

Interested to know people’s experiences of hookless rims—any issues with losing tyres at lower pressures? Encountered a world of tyre compatibility nightmares? Everything been fine and it’s put an end to tyres that wouldn’t seat well before?

Thinking more for rims intended for gravel & wider tyres i.e. inner widths of 20mm and above. Any hot takes? Hookless good or hookless bad?

I've had a set of Mavic hookless alloy on my MTB hardtail for a good few years. I like running quite squirmy pressures (17-20psi) and never had a burp despite evidence of serious flex of the sidewalls.

by hookless do you mean non-tubeless specific rims? If so then yeah, pretty much every tyre I set up tubeless is on non-specific rims.

I tend to run them at higher pressures, say 35PSI minimum for a gravel tyre or 30 for an MTB tyre. I only had the MTB tyre burp once many years ago when I got it down to circa 20 psi in the alps.

Hookless are very much tubeless specific! They have no hook to the rim so require a very strong tyre bead.

https://blog.flocycling.com/carbon-wheels/hooked-vs-hookless-rims/

Hookless are very much tubeless specific!

Or, to put it another way, hookless is just a return to the way things were before the introduction of the exotic "crocheted" high pressure rim. It was always good for 45psi on 27×1¼ tyres with steel beads, the crotchet allowed us to reach the dizzying figure of 60psi 🤯

The tubeless-specific part is a shelf and retaining hump for the bead, not the hooklessness

I was all set on getting some MucOff sealant because I'm finding my Efferrto sealant is not very effective and sealing any holes bigger than 2mm. Any feedback on Peaty's or whatever the current forum approved sealant is?