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• #4777
Clean the old sealant stuck onto the beads, as well as onto the grooves of the rim.
Usually it helps a lot. -
• #4778
I'd replace the valve cores and remove big boogers. Getting it all out is too much work.
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• #4779
In future, just whack in new sealant through the valve if you can and keep the tyre beads seated.
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• #4780
Turns out my problem on the rear was insufficient tyre and rim prep… I went round the seating interface of both pretty throughly with a toothbrush and warm soapy water and the tyre went up first time and is still holding air a week later.
On the rear my rim tape has a hole at one of the spoke holes and I presume the rim itself isn’t airtight so now I need new rim tape. Is it all pretty much the same or is some stuff better than others? Rim internal width is 18mm
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• #4781
The Stans injector is probably one of the most overpriced but still useful TL things I've bought. Much easier and cleaner than just tipping sealant in and out of tyres.
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• #4782
I've used DT, Tesa and the green stuff and they've all worked fine. It's critical that it's the right size for the rim though. The issues I had when I first converted my gravel setup was because the Tesa wasn't quite right for the rims.
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• #4783
Yeah I’ve got a cafelatex syringe but on my cross bike the tyres pop off the bead whenever I let all the pressure out.
With rim tape, I measured the internal rim width to be 18mm… what rim tape width do in need. So far as I can tell from wiggle I get the closest to 18mm that I can, but if not size up?
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• #4784
You bought that syringe thing? Everyone else just uses a refilled small (60 ml) Stans bottle, which is about £3.
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• #4785
Someone gave me a syringe thing that I thought I'd never use but actually came in useful when using Stans race which just blocked up a small Stans bottle.
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• #4786
I bought it years ago for my first tubeless setup. I also wasn't using Stans sealant so that's no use and it has proven to be very useful over the years for doing tyre swaps and stuff, where you can suck out sealant and reinject not make such a mess as the tippy tippy squirty crew.
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• #4787
This looks neat: https://bikepacking.com/gear/reserve-fillmore-tubeless-valves-review/
poppet valve presta replacement, no more sealant clogged presta valves.
$49.95 (pair) though, LOLz (until the copies arrive)
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• #4788
How does it prevent clogging other than just making the sealing surface a bit bigger? It's still just a rubber surface making the seal, and you still have nothing separating the seal from the sealant.
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• #4789
Because the seal is down the bottom, a lot bigger and pushes out when you open it compared to the tiny seal of a presta, which leaves all the sealant in the tiny tube
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• #4790
But then the seal is just swimming in sealant all the time compared to presta where it only really gets sealant if you inject it with the core in. Presta also pushes open when you press the top. I don't have anything against the design and I'm sure it works on wider rims, but I think with tight tyres you'll struggle even more with that big valve inside. Also I've never really had a problem with sealant blocking my valves.
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• #4791
It's just a flat, large surface though and easily broken when you open it compared to the very tight gap of the presta.
I don't know why I'm even explaining this. It's not my product. It either works or it doesn't. I can see how it would work but have no practical experience so maybe I'm wrong.
Presta valves do clog up though and are fucking annoying (I have one now) so I would look at replacing them with valves like these at least to try them.
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• #4792
And this is why TL suckkkkz
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• #4793
Just carry a bit of old spoke in your toolkit to poke through blocked valves 👍
Can also be bent and used to hook the ends of a broken chain, making rejoining a lot easier.
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• #4794
You can poke through the valve stem but not the valve core...
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• #4795
I misread - my blockages tend to be at the base of the valve stem, so respond well to a good poke.
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• #4796
what's the goto at-home tubeless inflator of 2021?
I have a specialised air blast reservoir, it's shit, and pumping it all the way up to two million PSI leaves me completely wiped out
I'm done with paying a bike shop silly money to pop it up on their compressor.
anything smaller than a big compressor and cheaper than £150 considered. -
• #4797
what's the goto at-home tubeless inflator of 2021?
Any that doesent use the valve as mechanism to trigger the air chamber. Valves fail.
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• #4798
I have this https://www.topeak.com/global/en/products/41-Floor-Pumps/1322-JOEBLOW-BOOSTER
And have found it very good - I've only used it for 650x47 tyres, so can't attest to bigger. Very glad not to have to go to shop to switch tyres.
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• #4799
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kingfisher-8L-High-Pressure-Sprayer/dp/B008CZZF00/ref=asc_df_B008CZZF00/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=226005619422&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=635571578032955396&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006598&hvtargid=pla-421939318501&psc=1 one of these has been working for me. Only non destructive modification needed so can still be used as a pressure washer.
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• #4800
I have this https://www.topeak.com/global/en/products/41-Floor-Pumps/1322-JOEBLOW-BOOSTER
Much as I love using my SKS Rennkompressor pump for tubed tyres, something like that JoeBlow Booster pump has to be the future of track pumps with the rise of tubeless tyres. Their video makes the whole fitting and pumping sequence look particularly straightforward:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-295E_vZ4SM
What do people do for tubeless maintenance?
I’ve neglected my cx bike and the tyres have completely deflated. I tried just adding more sealant and re inflating but the tyres won’t even get close to seating. How thoroughly do I have to clean out all the old sealant etc? Do I need to replace or clean out the valves? They seem ok but a bit bunged up.