• Happily I have jerry cans of petrol of various vintages. I think my most mature is a half can of BP Unleaded of about a 2012 vintage.

  • I'd just tape over the stuff, removing it is a nightmare

  • Forum approved tubeless valves?

    Not having a good time with WTB...

    :(

  • Well the lifeline have been a disappointment.

  • Muc off have worked fine for me

  • Petrol. Works wonders.

    It did! Ta.

  • Thanks they look promising.

  • I've used Muc-off, Silca, Stans or some generic version of them and WTB and they've all basically worked the same (or not worked as the case often is with tubeless setups, but that's usually tape issues, not valve issues, the valves have all performed fine).

  • It's usually the hole, not the valve, what's causing issues.

  • I dont really want to dremel the valve hole to accept the valve...

    Perhaps two layers of tape not helping, but I think valve does have an impact and the rubber grommet needs to be soft enough to seal around the valve opening and not be rock hard like my WTB valves... maybe its a size thing hence why mucoff send you three different fittings...

  • What’s the issue? Can’t get a seal at the valve?

  • yup - may try retaping (PITA)

  • Been having a few fails lately, probably tape not wide enough or taping around the valve badly. Struggle with how deep the channel is on some hope five 20 wheels. Ended up taking them off my bike and throwing on some Hunts with factory fitted tape.

    Anyway, what I wanted to ask, is there a method to get tape on as nicely as Hunt do from the factory? Maybe it is my choice of tape, it seems too rigid to fit so flush, need to add heat, other, not possible for a home mechanic?

  • That's what I did when my WTB i23 wouldn't seal with new tyres.

    It wasn't my tape job originally but I retaped it and it sealed fine then.

  • Different tape probably. Also pull it tighter and smooth as you go.

  • Is there a rule of thumb on Stan's sealant additions, ie. how often are people topping up their sealant and with how much?

    I'm asking for 47mm tyres which probably had 100ml sealant to start (MOAR IS BETTERER!)

  • Have you used a pair of pliers to get a really tight seal? Just remember to back it off once you have otherwise you’ll be swearing like a trooper when you’re out in the pissing rain trying to get the valve out.

  • For MTB tyres, I'll use 60ml

    Road, 30ml to seal then 15-20 when topping up

    CX, 30 to seal then 20-30 when topping up

  • Big volume it's better to use more sealant (unless you're weight weenie xc racing) but I'm more interested in the rough time it's taking people's sealant to dry out, ie. how often are you topping up?

  • I'm asking for 47mm tyres which probably had 100ml sealant to start (MOAR IS BETTERER!)

    I do 90ml on road tubeless which had an interesting effect when the rear GP5000 decided to let go of all pressure (I inflated to the limit in the cold and it got too hot after a long ride probably) and dump the whole sealant to the poor chap on my wheel.

  • I probably change my rear tyre on my MTBs every few months and will top up the front then if it's not being changed.

    Road/CX every three months if I remember...

  • I'm safe there - I don't use road tubeless and have no plans to. It's the big volume gravel/xc bikes I'm curious about top up frequency for.

  • Ah ok, you wear out MTB rubber like I wear out road tyres :D

    If you're replacing tyres faster than sealant you're not my target market with this question :D

  • Just topped up my 38mms with 50ml of sealant. Been meaning to do it since September but look as if completely dried out. Effetto Mariposa sealant.

  • Post a reply
    • Bold
    • Italics
    • Link
    • Image
    • List
    • Quote
    • code
    • Preview
About

Tubeless Tyres -"saying the same things about tubeless tyres over and over again" Hippy read the first f**king post

Posted by Avatar for dancing james @dancing james

Actions