Tubeless Tyres -"saying the same things about tubeless tyres over and over again" Hippy read the first f**king post

One thing I noticed it makes a lot of difference is soapy water

Never bothered. Ever.

They either go up...or they won't.

Soapy shiznit just plays havoc with your sealant. I've heard.

Maybe it's a ghetto tubeless thing - I've only ever been blessed with TC wheels.

I'm also in the "they go up with a track pump or not at all" camp.

Also, what 650B tubeless rims?

Maybe it's a ghetto tubeless thing

My last fit was UST tyres on UST rims, nothing ghetto about that and they were still a PITA to seat. The process which eventually worked was

1. Fit tubes and inflate
   
2. Remove tubes by unseating one bead only
   
3. Install valves and sealant
   
4. Lube the loose bead with Schwalbe EasyFit
   
5. Inflate with Bontrager blaster pump
   

This, I seated some tyres ghetto with soap to help and they just wouldn't reseal when I botched a landing and punctured. Even leaked from the bead

that's kinda disappointing for a UST set up. Which tyre & rim? Road?

Which tyre & rim?

Vredestein T-Lope 26×2.3 on Mavic D3.1

When you inflate with a tube, pump it up to the max, rad.
#givingadviceaftertryingitonce

Progress...

Ghetto blaster is surprisingly effective at mounting the tyre. I tried with 80psi in the bottle and instantly inflated the tyre hard, the downside is that there were a couple of leaks around the edges of the rim where air leaked out...

My expectation was that once the tyre had been inflated the tyre beads would hook onto the rims and remain in place even when the tyre was deflated again. I was then hoping to unscrew the valve core to add the gloop. Unfortunately, in my case, once deflated the beads on both sides of the tyre collapsed back into the rim bed.

I was really just testing the blaster, so I haven't tried with the goo yet but should I add the goo before inflating? Blasting 100psi of air into an unsealed tyre full of goo just seems like a good way to spray it everywhere. Also, if the bead just drops away from the rim, then this doesn't really inspire confidence for low psi.

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Once the sealant is in there it will stop the leak around the bead, although may take 24 hours to properly seal.

Shouldn't. I always put sealent in first then just blast air in. Sometimes a couple of leaks will show up, but some spinning and bouncing of the wheel stops it pronto.
Last set I did was a couple of days ago. 2.2 Furious freds on non tubless XM317 rims with stans tape and valves. Rode down some stairs on them as a test. No pop, no roll, no drop.

Blasting 100psi of air into an unsealed tyre full of goo just seems like a good way to spray it everywhere.

Go on, what could go wrong...

Once it's part seated, pump it up to the max, like totally.

once deflated the beads on both sides of the tyre collapsed back into the rim bed.

And this is why I'm always banging on about sticking to UST certified products.

Ah... I hadn't realised that there was some fancypants standard above and beyond simple "tubeless" or "tubeless ready". Tyres are Schwalbe S-one and the rims are Alex Draw 1.9p... neither of which say UTS. I'm using them with the Stan's CX kit... ho hum... I'll see how I get on with what I've got.

I've found an old syringe to dispense the goo so might have another try this evening.

Here's a rather MTB centered explanation

Try letting the air out as gently as possible. Don't just pull the hose off and release 80psi all at once, release it slowly with the valve on the reservoir.

I've got a puncture that wouldn't seal. It's a gash 2mm long in the tread. I've stuck a standard cut-to-size butyl patch on the inside with rubber solution. Will this do the job long-term or is it worth stumping up for the tubeless patches?

https://www.mantel.com/uk/schwalbe-pro-one-tubeless-set?spec%5B%5D=1724&utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&gclid=CLGzyc2Y4M8CFQcz0wod6joN7w
70 quid for a pair aint bad.

This is pretty accurate and still not holding. I get it inflated but there is a major leak between the rim and tyre a few cm round from the valve. I managed to spin the wheel to get sealant into the area but tyre still completely deflated after about 10 secs.

Multiple attempts later and my fridge is covered in spunk.

If it doesn't work soon I'll pay the lbs to do it and let me watch.

Did you put an additional layer of tape on it?

Unless you are using a UST sealed rim, I'd try that. Sounds like even in the bead lock the tyre isn't tight enough.

+1 for more rim tape

Also have you tried rotating the tyre to see if it is a particular bit of the rim or tyre bead that is the problem?

Right, so I've got some non-tubeless Reynolds Assaults and wondering if I'm being mental thinking I can run them tubeless.
Tubeless rim tape, valves and tubeless tyres - will it work?

Is it for road? I have little experience with ghetto tubeless but I doubt you can put high pressure in it

I wouldnt go ghetto tubeless for road speeds & tyre pressures

I've done it on some Shimano RS11's without issue. Just used Stan's tape and valve. I also did it on my Ritchey carbon wheels but the 17mm internal was a bit too much of a stretch for 23mm tyres, so although they worked fine for about 6 months, when I went to replace the the sealant I couldn't get them to seal again. I reckon it would be fine with 25mm tyres.

Run out of Stan's. What's the go-to sealant at the mo? Orange Seal?