-
• #3577
Yeah. Reading the spec they suggest that rim tap.
-
• #3578
You want your tape width to be slightly wider (2-3mm) than the internal width, so it part way up the side walls. If you’ve not already done that, it’s worth trying.
-
• #3579
I'll have a look. The stuff I have is for 25mm rims which is wider than the rim I have.
It's almost certainly my cack handedness. Though I take on board testers point about the rim. -
• #3580
DT Tape looks to me like the orange kapton tape with black printing. I have just replaced the DT tape (2.5 layers, problems around the rim joint and valve) with the Tesa 4289 (2 layers) and the TESA went up way easier. Maybe it's my increased knowledge of tubeless and taping now compared to 4 years ago, but the TESA worked better for me on those rims.
-
• #3581
Thanks!
-
• #3582
To add: Previously I've had 28mm Schwalbe Pro-one and 35mm G-one with DT tape. It normally took a few days / rides to get the tires fully sealed withot losing pressure. Now I have 40mm WTB Venture with the TESA tape. TESA tape is much thicker than DT, and the new tire was harder to mount. Tires deflated the first night, but then I re-inflated, rode around a little bit and they're holding well.
-
• #3583
TESA = Stan's ?
-
• #3584
no but it works
-
• #3585
great. am ordering now!
-
• #3586
Looking at going ghetto tubeless with Mavic 319 rims and 38c Gravelking SK (tubeless ready) because we're in lockdown and why not.
Will this kind of tape be enough https://www.wiggle.co.uk/prime-tubeless-tape-1/. Was going to pair up with Stan's valves and sealant
reading mixed things online about the tape needed, mainly from Stan's who say a rim tape won't be enough by itself. do i need to use gorilla tape and then a rim tape, or one of Stan's conversion tapes with the inbuilt valve (which seem to get mixed reviews)
-
• #3587
Had my first ever tubeless fail in over three years of only using tubeless. Cannot get a Pro One to seat after I plugged a hole that wouldn't seal. A G One seats perfectly on the same rim without even using sealant. So currently I have a 25c Pro One on the front and a 30c G One on the rear until I figure this out. I'd like to put a 30c on the front tbh but my fork won't clear it.
Anyway is there a way to figure out where air is leaking from on the other tyre if I can't even inflate it? I am using the same track pump, same rim (obvs), everything is the same other than the tyre.
I stuck a tube in and put it in the bath to see if there were any obvious holes but there weren't (unsure if this would even work given the air is held within the tube). When I pump it up it just sounds like air is escaping from the entire tyre. Have wet the rim, dried the rim, put sealant in, nothing works. I worry the tyre is beyond saving so have ordered another... I also put it in a full bath and pumped it up and there were air bubbles coming from the entire rim so it didn't really help me figure anything out.
-
• #3588
Is the tyre a bit baggy?
Worth investing in a booster pump?
-
• #3589
Not reaaalllly what I'd describe as baggy. FWIW, I set these wheels/tyres up start to finish in about 10 minutes. It was as easy as anything using my track pump, so I don't think it's that. It feels like the channel isn't deep enough for the tyre now that they've stretched a bit on the rim. Whereas when I first did it out of the box obviously the tyre bead was a bit tighter. The bead on a G-One also feels a lot more substantial - as though it could stop air to contain it within the tyre.
-
• #3590
If you’ve got any more tape kicking about an extra layer might help?
-
• #3591
Tried an extra layer of leccy and it didn’t unfortunately. Have no other tape.
-
• #3592
Cannot get a Pro One to seat after I plugged a hole that wouldn't seal.
I had that recently with a rather elderly Pro One. Didn't seem that baggy when I fitted it, but air was pissing out everywhere when I tried to inflate it with a Joe Blow Booster - no compressor in Switzerland sadly, only the UK. So I fitted a new one, which seated immediately.
-
• #3593
P.S. This was on Kinlin XR31 disc brake rims.
-
• #3594
Mine was on a DT 460. Yeah, I fully expect the same thing to happen to me. The difference with mine is that it only has about 300km on it.
-
• #3595
flipping new wheel, new tape, new tyre seated like a dream but pissing air our at the spokes. I really really really can't be bothered to re-do the tape. can I blame the valve or something just until I can face blaming the tape and re-doing it?
-
• #3596
Overlap not enough on the tape? I think I did that and some extra sealant fixed it.
-
• #3597
did you take the valve core out, and dump air in from a canister or compressor?
Probably just a bit stretched, so either do above, or another layer of proper tape.
-
• #3598
Make sure your tape is wide enough for the rim otherwise it will never seal
-
• #3599
Is there a mini pump that will stand half a chance of getting a 2.25 mtb tyre back on a rim if it ever comes off? I discovered tonight that I should probably have a more reliable inflation option than a gas cart, but I'd rather not carry that and a pump if possible.
-
• #3600
Always carried CO2 with tubeless MTB if I wanted to get it back on the rim in an emergency. We had a group in the mountains and had a few roll off the rim after small punctures which lowered the pressure. CO2 got it back on reasonably stress free. For a puncture which needed a tube, we used pumps.
I managed to get a DT Swiss XR 331 working with 2 layers of orange seal tape yesterday. it didn't make a noise mounting but held pressure overnight with some sealant.
it was my 2nd go. first time I put tiny holes in the tape at the spoke holes by pressing the tape too firmly into the well. could hear the air coming out. 2nd time I didn't press it into the well.
I have the same rim in a factory wheel and it came with a metallic looking tape with "tubeless ready" printed on it. that one did make a loud pop and mounted very easily. you can buy DT brand tape. not sure who makes it.
tried just adding another layer of tape?