• Just annoying the issue seems to be the valve. Hey ho!

    I'd think that a bonus because it just means it's an easy problem to fix!

    Valve recommendation; Stans own, or Halo.

    I favour Halo simply because it's easy to undo the washer to be use to remove the valve core;

  • That's a nice touch, but I need to get value for money from my Park Tool remover, but if the alternative valve doesn't work too, it's good have a plan B.

  • Ah clever. Those small things always disappear.

  • Yeah, it's nice having it on the bike than on your person/tool bag.

    I usually just push the bead and pour in the sealant, but with road tyres, it may not be possible to re-seat it without a compressor.

  • Bloody tubeless tyres. Re-fitting IRC pro rbcc after a winter on g-ones, and even with a compressor they aren't sealing - just doesn't feel like the air is getting in fast enough!

    Anyone have any tips? I can try and put an inner tube in to get the tyre nicely in place but I was hoping not to as the valve was nicely in place before, and that's what I normally have issues with. Urgh

  • When I put tires back on that were used tubeless before, I had to add a round of tape to make them go up because they had stretched. (And then a valve leaked...)

  • Such a pain in the arse isn't it?

    I keep wondering if maybe tubes were worth it after all

  • How tight is it?

    c.h.e. is spot on.

  • Yes. But once it works, it works and rides great.

    Are those IRC tires as good as they're expensive? You don't happen to have ridden Schwalbe one and have a comparison?

  • Have ridden both the pro one and IRC, in that order respectively. Whilst the IRC are not as fast (read ‘slick’ ) as the schwalbes, neither are they the glass magnets the pro ones are, which is probably why mine are massively outlasting them.

  • Thanks!
    Found my pro ones not that bad, but then I have no idea how long they really lasted for lack of keeping track of Kms. Maybe 4-5000?
    And they were just used for rides, not a lot of Monday morning rides in the city.
    But massively outlasting sounds good.

  • another layer of tape. IT the dreaded bead stretch. Dont remove them just wear them out. That applies to all tubeless tyres. If you change tyresregularly then consider taking the lazy approach and have a do it all tyre. I use the lazy approach and ride my road tyres off road when I want too.

  • TBF, I think Pro Ones are more marketed towards roadies rather than commuters, in which case they're amazing. But once my IRCs go, I can see myself replacing them with the same.

  • put an anchovy in a rear g one speed at the weekend. How long can I safely leave it in?

  • A tip for people when applying tape

    Warm the tape on a radiator before applying. The adhesive is not very strong and is more active and the tape is more pliable and likely to conform to the rim bed when warmed.

  • my mate uses a heatgun thing to apply tape - seems to work great.

  • Gorilla tape gives no fucks

    Now boring discussion about Gorilla tape eating your sealant

  • I use my thumbs. This is why kinlin rims are the best as tape is really easy to apply to them. It

  • For the life of the tyre unless it pushes out.

  • Inflate it to the max PSI. If the thing slowly creeps out put some rubbery super glue and insert anchovie.

  • So, I'm having trouble setting up my first tubeless wheel from scratch (I have a pair that were set up for me on which I've changed the tyres without issue).

    Kit is as follows:

    • DT Swiss 411 rims
    • schwalbe pro one 28mm tyres
    • lifeline 25mm tubeless rim tape
    • lifeline valves
    • schwalbe doc blue sealant
    • airshot cannister

    I have done two wraps of tape, added sealant, and am trying to get the beads to seat. However hard I try one particular part of the bead (almost diametrically opposite to the valve) just won't stop leaking air. The closest I have gotten is about 30psi with little bubbles of sealant coming out. I've left it at this point but my current assumption is that it will continue to deflate.

    Does anyone have any ideas to try? Having read up my thoughts are:
    1) perhaps the tape is too wide and interfering with the bead. I've looked and can't see anything obvious, but is it an issue to use 25mm tape when DT Swiss note their inner rim width as 18mm? https://www.dtswiss.com/en/products/rims/road/performance/rr-411/
    2) should I whack a tube in, leave for 24 hours, and try again?
    3) is there something funny I've perhaps done with the bead when mounting the tyre? I used thumbs only (no levers), but the area it's not sealing is possibly the last bit of the bead that went on the rim

    Typically I have been doing this on the same day that I got a whacking great hole in my cx tyres so it's tyre fun all night for me

  • I had a nightmare setting up Schwalbe marathon supremes on mavic rims last week. I say I, I mean Jesse at micycle and I had a nightmare. He did most of the work. Got them on, inflated up with compressor with sealant in and then everywhere it was leaking pushed/ pulled the tyre back and forth in the direction of the axle.

    Isn’t opposite the valve normally the first part of the tyre that goes on?

  • Air the tyre, then hold the wheel, with the valve hole at the top and spin the wheel with the tyre pivoting between your palms, keep rotating it until you've been all the way round. If that doesn't sort it, leave it overnight for the jizz to go tacky, then it'll probably seal, provided it's on the beads.

  • Valve recommendation; Stans own, or Halo.

    I like the Efetto ones you can tighten them nice and tight without damaging them.

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Tubeless Tyres -"saying the same things about tubeless tyres over and over again" Hippy read the first f**king post

Posted by Avatar for dancing james @dancing james

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