Tubeless Tyres -"saying the same things about tubeless tyres over and over again" Hippy read the first f**king post

Do you have a good guide for tubeless tyre pressure that can be added to the OP?

guide for tubeless tyre pressure

Don't assume that your first guess at correct pressure is the right one.
Experiment with other values.
Use what you like, not what other people tell you to like.
#whatpressureyourunning

#bringbackrep

Probably dumb question.. is it worth using a beveled spacer under the threaded washer on the valve when used on an asymmetrical rim? The hole is offset so the washer doesn't sit evenly. I had a slow leak on another rim which was poorly drilled - not intentionally asym, but similar effect.

DT have these things, though I can't find them locally. Could maybe dremel out a short nylon spacer or something.

FSA:

I'd been putting off setting up some wheels tubeless because, frankly, all you ever hear about is how it's not that difficult and doesn't go wrong that often.

What can I say? Went on easier than some standard clinchers. Bead seated with standard track pump. Sealant went in fine and seems to have done the job.

They haven't been outside yet though, so this could be pride before a fall.

Pacenti rims, G-one 30c, Stans sealant, tape and valves.

Same. 2 for 2 setups and zero flats in ~6k miles. Will be setting up a third set soon. The inevitable unpatchable sidewall blowout will probably change my mind but until then, living the dream.

tried to set up first tubeless last night

HED belgium+ rims + tape
38mm Schwalbe G One
Orange sealant
Bontrager valves

Sealant was happily pishing out the valve hole in the wheel despite me having pressed the valve down pretty firmly whilst tightening the lockring.

Could it be that the valve shouldn't sit at 6 o'clock (ie, on the floor) when you're pumping it up?

Help appreciated.

Could it be that the valve shouldn't sit at 6 o'clock (ie, on the floor) when you're pumping it up?

I have had better experiences when the valve is at 3 or 9 o'clock.

Recommendation for @cycleclinic and his IRC tyres. RBCC were perfect for the ribinou of tro-bro leon.

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for me its 4/8 o clock

It could be for a number of reasons:
You did a too big cut, sealant is leaking as you put pressure
You didn't tightened the valve enough. Try to hand tighten a bit more when you're getting some pressure
Rim tape is too small and as it get pushed in the channel by air lifts on the edges, sealant leaking under
6 o'clock is not the best position to put air as others pointed, try 3 or 9

Do it again, but better, essentially

Don't think it is a tape issue as the rims come pretaped and HED Belgium+ are supposed to be pretty good for tubeless.

Could be that the valve wasn't tight enough. It was cranked pretty tight but maybe it could be closer then tightened - will give it another shot tonight with the valve in a different position.

As I recently learned (#ubintestered), the valve doesn't need to be screwed down super-tight as the air pressure will hold it in place.

I was setting-up a HED wheel which has a carbon fairing over a standard rim, which would be crushed if the valve nut was too tight. The nut is just to keep the stem steady, not keep it tight against the rim.

Try with the valve above 7/5 0'clock and below 9/3.

cheers for that, good to know

Have bought some gorilla tape which I will apply tonight after the wee man has gone to bed, poke a small hole through and try again.

I found that the valve on one of my wheels needed to be pretty tight, and needed a little more hand-tightening after the tyre had been partially inflated (because it was bubbling a little).

I would also recommend milKit valves. It's a great system (even if it is a bit more expensive).

For the same reason as condoms are single use. You could make either more durable if you made them heavier, but people wouldn't enjoy using them.

Sheep's gut FTW

Had to use one of those worm jobbies for the first time yesterday. Pressure ok so far.

Tyres have taken a pasting in the last couple of weeks. Multiple cuts on tyres that had gone the whole winter with barely a mark.

Trying to set up tubeless Specialized Tracer tyres on a pair of Kore XCD 29er rims (supposedly UST compatible according to their website. I'm getting a lot of air leaking out through the valve hole

I've noticed that near the valve hole, there are 4 small 2mm holes in the rim bed near the bead hooks. I wonder if they are a little too far out to be taped over properly as the tape would run up the inner side of the rim and are the actual source of the leak rather than the valve hole itself.

Any ideas for sealing them down? I've made some little plugs out of sugru which I'm in the process of trying. Would a healthy dose of sealant be able to seal the little holes?

Isn't that what the sealant is designed for? Worth a shot anyway.

Finally had success! The extra gorilla tape over the valve hole was enough and have both wheels sitting at around 40psi overnight. Thanks for the help, chaps.

The UST rims I had seemed to require a valve stem with a special shaped plug, and a matching profiled lock ring. Not using UST kit? Might be a place to start.

Quick question. I've finally managed to get my gravelkings on 650b rims. Pumped them up and the beads made a satisfying popping sound. I've not added the sealent yet as I'm off to Poland on the weekend and figured I'll do this when I'm back. But, to my question. After mounting and pumping last night, I found the wheels this morning deflated, though the tyre bead was still in place thankfully. Is this to be expected since there is no sealant in there, or does this point to some fault with my mounting? When I first pumped in up I didn't hear any air hissing out from the valve or anywhere else.

Its the mysterious tubeless air fairy

Is this to be expected since there is no sealant in there

Yes

Good, no need to continue swearing at it when trying to remount the tyres