custom Rychtarski xs winter/light tourer

So struggling to find a bike that fitted my specs I have become ever more tempted to go custom. However I am starting this thread to gather some advice as I dont really know what I am doing..!

I am after a road bike, with space for 28mm tyres, plus mud guards and rear rack mounts that fits me.

I own a caad10 that fits me spot on so I want to try and replicate the reach but with a bit more stack for comfort. One frame I saw that would have been perfect if it was still available was the tokyo fixed wide open.

my caad10 has the following stack/reach:

reach:368mm
stack: 517mm

I copied in the geometry of a 50cm tokyo fixed wide open as much as I could and got this:

reach:346.1mm
stack: 518.8mm

so it looks like I can increase both the reach and stack a bit. Hopefully a slightly longer toptube will help with toe overlap.

One bit where I have no idea what Im doing is designing it so there is enough clearance for tyres.. I copied the chainstay length of a geneis CDF (425mm).

The other decision is wether to go disk or not - disk would solve the tyre clearance issues with rim brakes, although the tokyo fixed wide open seemed to be ok with rim brakes.

Go disc, go mudguards and 30c+ tyres, go Rychtarski.

I don't know enough about geo to be of much assistance here, but maybe a bit more headtube if you can manage it, to up the stack a touch?

All of the above. But also keep brake holes, just in case....
Or just use your CAAD for everything.
But you're correct in thinking the only way to beat a CAAD is to go custom.

p.s. tangent, u got a photo of your CAAD10? It's you, me and @Acliff in the tiny 'dale team atm.

@Mechamorgan

when it was clean

1 Attachment

will keeping the rear brake hole mess up the tyre clearance as the bridge will need to be further down?

One reason to go rim vs disc is that I can swap wheels between the caad and this, It would make it cheaper to get rolling as I wouldnt need any new wheels.

inspiration

1 Attachment

Out of curiosity how come you didn't copy the geo of your CAAD10? Given that you're tweaking the length of chainstays and top tube.

Also can Rychtarski advise on some of these points? Or are they cheaper because you need to do it all?

I updated it so that it has the same length top tube as my caad and increased the headtube, decreased seattube by a cm.

reach: 362 (virtualy same as caad)
stack: 530 (+1.5cm + external headset)

1 Attachment

my understanding is that you need to give Rychtarski full instructions

I based it off the Tokyo Fixed wide open as It was basically what I wanted and figured that its geometry was best suited to this kind of bike. But looking at it there are not many differences now I have changed the tt length.

The other decision is wether to go disk or not - disk would solve the tyre clearance issues with rim brakes, although the tokyo fixed wide open seemed to be ok with rim brakes.

Not a big fan of disc myself but long drop calipers are the worst.

If you don't want disk go mini V.

what's wrong with long drop callipers? they've always worked very well for me.

Never worked for me .. set up by a good shop too.

really?! don't be put off they work just as well as short reach brakes for me, and I set them both up and i'm rubbish.

they've worked fine for me as well and i think im a much bigger lump that amey.

Saying that I vote for discs, big tyres, steel MAX fork and all the brazeons. You've got a race bike this should be for everything else.

you an pick up a cheap 29er set to get you rolling and save the faff of swapping wheels

so can I buy disk groupsets or do I have to buy it all separately? looking very pricey!

What are the best options?

Been researching this all eve and have to say while it would be nice to fit 35mm tyres, I doubt I ever will. This bike is basically just a road bike with the comfort of steel and space for 28mm + mudguards. Discs sound like more effort than I need. Reviews of TRP Spyre's are not 100% glowing, talk of judder have to maintain etc etc.. Bear in mind that I have not adjusted my rim brakes in 3000+ odd miles, i simply can not be arsed with any extra maintenance.

While searching for further inspiration I came across this, which I then realised was also psee's!

to me that is perfect, I don't need any bigger tyres than that and can ride 28mm with fenders.

Discs would also be another £200 odd quid.

Micro cannondales FTW!

A boring suggestion, but how about a Kinesis Racelight 4S in 48cm?
Reach 368 and stack 523
Has space for 28mm tyres, and guard and rack mounts. Long drop calipers required.

Chainstays on that were 425mm i think. 415mm would probably still fit 28+ fenders.

Buy 5800 groupset; sell calipers and get Spyre?

I think the negative reviews of spyre are because 1) user error 2) stock pads 3)improper installation 4) Judder is down to fork stiffness

If you take care of all that then spyre should be as maintenance free as caliper I reckon.

What you are after i.e. 35c + guards I'd say go disc and might as well go 650b ;)

@psee thanks - I actually updated the chainstays to 415mm glad to hear that sounds right.

@amey do you have spyres? when did you last have to touch them?

@Acliff I had seen the kinesis and did consider it, but it doesnt excite me & its also alu, I would like something steel.

This is what I did. 5800 groupset for £256. Sold the calipers to a mate for £25. Bought spyres for £124. So in total spent £355 for a 5800 groupset with disc brakes. I'm happy with that.

I do keep considering discs but my lack of knowledge is also putting me off. Both in terms of spec'ing the bike but then future maintainance.

Do I just have to spec an apropriate drop out? I think I would go carbon fork if I went with discs so what are my options here (with mudguards mounts)

@pete4eyes, where did you get 5800 for that price - is that off eBay?

do you have spyres? when did you last have to touch them?

Not yet; but had V twin and cable disc MTB in past. About to get them for Talbot we are getting for the missus. They are great on paper the only gripe from users/mechanics I've heard about is because of those reasons I mentioned.

You don't 'need' discs for the purposes of braking as such; you need them because of the tyre width you desire.

If it was me and I was going to rychtarski I'd do a mini-V with steel fork for: expertise of the builder on disc specific frame/fork (plus the communication), lightweight, not too far from standard calipers when it comes to maintenance and they will stop you plus you can go 40c without guards and 35c with (TRP CX 8.4).

I'd also go for the lightest tubing you can afford and get far east carbon seatpost. If you intend to put Nitto M12 (plus any other integration like Dynamo lights) I'd say go steel forks.

I haven't touched my spyres since I installed them, that was only a few months ago though. I've also not touched my long drop calipers since I installed them a year ago.

Installing and adjusting spyres is dead easy btw. Id never had anything to do with discs prior to my latest commuter.