Surly Bike Owners

With the steel fork should be able to get a Pacer sub 9kg, swap out the steel fork and maybe under 8.5kg.

Just looked into a cervelo R5 at 974g for the frameset at £3,500 and 6.69kg complete build at £5,100
So swap framesets and add around 2kg........
Swap just the frame and add just over 1kg.......

Current Rollers 56cm 2087g, uncut fork 986g Pacer should be similar weights.
:)

New page fail

so if you had two full water bottles on the cervelo and I had just run out on th pacer we'd be about equal bike weights...

Something like that Sacredhart, if you stripped the cervelo and put the same parts on the pacer.

There's a tricked out pacer or cross-check somewhere on this forum, it's red and the picture is by a canal. Will try and find it tonight.
100% behind the idea, for what it's worth

Found it way back in the thread. Yes this is what I was thinking but with a 21st century saddle and a slammed stem.

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That's a slammed stem

What is it about the pacer that you prefer over getting something a bit older? For the price of a pacer frame you could get some swanky 90s steel (if you don't mind the 1" steerer) then go neo-retro or whatever we're calling it.

If I was gonna invest I'd go for a copy in fancier tubing from a polish builder

1. No1 slams a surly, they have TINY head tubes and long top tubes
   
2. No1 tries to make a surly light
   
   

It weighs a tonne, you can lock it anywhere. But don't fool yourself by trying to do those things .. buy it for 'steel is real' hipster points and a million mounts.

If you want a 'nice' (a bit light) steel bike you need to look at the likes of Ritchey or Genesis Volare. Scoble is selling one cheap atm too.

Light doesent really matter, riding quality does. If you like steel/surly build it for the ride quality and your preference, making it light is going against its nature.

I know the owner of the pacer, it's mostly a parts-bin build (they have an impressive parts bin) for a long, hilly ride. It replaced a stainless volare, which might have been lighter but they find this more comfortable.

Maybe you are the right person to ask this but a thread-wide question ..

Surly 1x1 and Alfine .. what do I need? Will it need any frame modifications? I want as clean Alfine set up as possible. I will get the frame and fork drilled for Dynamo cable anyway.

Just building up a flat bar 26" commuter.

@M_V has something similar no?

I used to think light matters until I did some proper distance on my 10kg orlo. Realised if I'd been on a 5kg road bike, the weight id still be pushing up the hill would only be ~6% less ie not enough for me to notice. I can see that light rotational weight matters the most for lightweight 'feel' so a pacer with <1400g wheels and gp4ksii's would be how I would approach it

I got a Concorde 753 frameset with a dented toptube for about £30. rode it til the dent became a crack, then paid Neil Orrell £200 to replace the toptube, get it resprayed (nice glittery metallic) with repro graphics, and fit a nice Stronglight headset. Add in some travel costs, call it £250 for an as-new 753 frameset.

How much is a Pacer frameset?

A cracked one + repair? Less than £250?

My 1x1 is back to 1x1 now but yeah, I was running an Alfine 8 in it.

Not much needed, best cable setup for Alfines seems to be full length outer so no cable stops required, just a way to attach the cable to the tubes, zipties work fine, there are, I'm sure, more bling ways of doing it if you want.

You may need to buy a different set of the anti turn washers, my Alfine was 2nd hand and the washers it came with worked just fine in the horizontal dropouts though.

mine

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Not much needed, best cable setup for Alfines seems to be full length outer so no cable stops required, just a way to attach the cable to the tubes, zipties work fine, there are, I'm sure, more bling ways of doing it if you want.

I like full housing route. Zip ties are fine but if I am taking the frame to get it drilled, might as well get some of these brazed on for a neater zip tie routing. Plus it will destroy the paint which will be unattractive to thieves.

How much do you have any pics of the routing and dropout?

Not on the hard drives I currently have plugged in.

I just ran it down the downtube and along the chainstay, terminating at the cassette joint thingy.

There is a version of the Alfine 8 that requires routing along the toptube and down the seatstay actually. It's to do with the way the shifting works. The one I had (and the Nexus 8 I currently have) are push the shifter with the thumb to go to a harder gear and these have the cable going along the downtube and chainstay, the other version has push with the thumb to go to an easier gear and uses the top routing.

Actually, seems I'm wrong and both types can be routed along the chainstay, this is the cassette joint for the other type,

I have read shimano manuals .. but this is the MOST complex: http://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-SG0004-02-ENG.pdf

Need a cheap, outside lock-able small person commuter .. I was thinking Alfine 8 .. if nexus is cheaper and the same might go that way?

Yeah word on the street is that newer Nexus 8 is the same hub as Alfine 8. I think there are some differences in the way it closes on the drive side so maybe Alfibe is better sealed?

There's some in the image dumb on surly's site.

I had a hanger brazed on my steamroller to solve the problem, but a pacer would have been more sensible option.

Holy shit.

There have been plenty of very sensible and practical reasons not to do this aired, but it's still kinda just awesome.