Kalavinka Super Exhibition track bike build

rc-540's aren't cheap, but they're pretty much the only sensible japanese option.
There are other harder-to-find Araya rims out there though: ct-19n / ctl-385 / 20a / rs-430, etc

Otherwise you have all the usual non-japanese choices; mavic, h plus, ambrosio, rigida, velocity, etc.
You can have a dig around here: https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/187300/

Tb14s or Kinlin adhn, pretty good price for Low profile rims

also depends on what you're using it for - is it track or slave? brakes or no brakes?
...rc-540's don't have much in the way of braking surface iirc.

When I was building my track bike I just went for Open Pro's in the end: Araya and Ambrosio were comparable weight/quality-wise but more expensive and less readily available. tb-14's are quite heavy and wide, which is good for town but not great for racing. The finish is also much shinier than the silver Nitto stuff.

I guess I don't really have much choice in the matter of keeping it Japanese then, thought there would be some more.

Regarding their use, I haven't really come to a good conclusion yet, aside from brakeless (at least for the most part). Ideally I would like to get into track cycling but it is a bit of a drive, it will also probably be used on the roads tbh.

The Arayas are nice but yeah, I'm not going spend $400 on rims.
There are some Arayas on Hilary Stone but are all grey andosised; think they were CT-19s.
Not keen on H plus Sons for some reason.
I'm thinking that mavic and Kinlin are the main possibilities so far, haven't had a good look at the low profile rim link yet (thanks BTW).

Where do you live?

I may have some hidden away in the shed in 32 holes...

Cambridge,

The plan is still to go with the dura ace 7600 hubs which all have 36 holes I thought (isn't that the NJS restriction)?

Thanks anyway.

just get open pros and take the stickers off.
or buy ed's, obvs.

Deffo reads Kalavinka on downtube- have the same on mine....

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I was thinking Mavic E clinchers. Quite like their shape (the boxiness) nd think they'd fit the part. Quite like Mavic too.

Unless they are known for breaking ect?

Did fond this thread which I may look into at greater detail.

Those Mavics are perfectly good and polish up like mirrors, everyone used to use them when I was young and dinosaurs roamed the Earth. They're not as stiff as modern rims and are likely to need truing more frequently.

Thanks.
So yeah. I'll probably opt for them. I don't think the trueing will be such an issue; this won't exactly be my beater.

Cranks arrived from @killy1, very good seller. Included all the bolts and stuff that may or may have not been included in the sale, so thanks.

They have a few more aethetical blemishes than I thought but that was my mistake. I retouched the Dura Ace logo on the NDS crank arm with a CD marker which seems to be quite durable, but the one on the DS arm at all so that is for another day.
The anodising has been rubbed off in some areas (any way to deal with that?) and there are some deep scratches but they are quite minor.

Nice. Get that 47t olympic zen in classifieds to match?

In terms of rims I would just go for some cheaper rims if your not that bothered about it being all japanese/njs but if you are then wait out for some black arayas, they come up every now and then on ebay.com but they will be double or triple what you will pay for some kinlins etc.

I wish, sadly not economically viable. I am thinking of a black 7600 chainring.

I am keen on getting silver rims and the mavic E rims do look promising, pricing is not bad either.

Can't you get the cranks properly polished or something? Dunno what that would cost.

They're lovely cranks and it would be a shame if you were let down by their appearance.

My main gripe with them has somewhat been negated; I managed to draw, somewhat accurately, the Dura Ace logo on the DS crank arm, so now they're somewhat consistent. To me it has made a considerable difference.
I think I may have sounded a bit too overcast then as the rest is just minor heel rub and a few scratches.
I'll get some more snaps tomorrow.

Seeing as it has rubbed through the anodising I would assume it would be more complicated than polishing the cranks, would have to re-andoise them or something? But I really have no issue with their current state TBH.

Found this image:

Think it is my frame as you can somewhat see the top eyes poking out; something the frame a page back didn't have.

Got the hang of the CD marker. With a damp toothpick you could easily get it off when it was still a bit wet. There are still a few issues, the A's, but I think it looks OK.

Looks like you did a fairly good job. Am wondering if I can do this with the 75's I got!

Is the logo embossed in or is it just anodising on top, and what marker did you use? And won't it just rub off really quick again

just order two of these but measure the current letters so the size matches. if your foot rubs though they won't last long, but neither the marker

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dura-Ace-Shimano-Bike-Frame-MTB-Decal-Stickers-Genuine-3M-Vinyl-Cycle-cube-trek-/161825369542?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

@HHC: What kind of retention are you going to run? If clipless and you set up your cleats properly, heel rub won't be a problem I'd figure.

Cranks look better with the Dura-Ace logos! Well done.

I think it was just anodising on top. Under some lighting conditions (my bathroom) I could see the mark left or something so just drew it in from there and used the toothpick to clean it up.

It will rub off quickly- only the E as that's where the heel rub is, the others maybe not - the marker is seems quite durable. Was thinking of maybe putting one of those plastic films over.

Suginos for the fusida?

^^
Did think about getting some decals but couldn't find any and didn't really know how they'd look; is the surrounding rectangle part of the decal?

^
Will be using toe clips at least for the beginning. After a while may switch to clipless (not quite confident enough yet)

no its vinyl, only the letters will stay on. its durable and waterproof, just the rubbing may cause problems

Yeah sugino for the Fidusa yeah, them and getting a silver seatpost too. Think antidotes has a nitto one I can have.

Will give it a try with the 75 logos as they have a little bit of wear.

^^
Sounds very promising. May look into that in the future.

^
Suginos for the fusida will look noice.
Would be quite easy if they've only been worn a bit.
Certainly made doing the NDS one for mine easier.

The pen I used was a PILOT CD Marker (extra fine) BTW. Personally didn't find that they earnt the extra fine badge.

Very chuffed with myself; bought and installed the BB yesterday. It wasn't Japanese but really who cares about bottom brackets, plus it was either that or the £90 open bearing sugino one.

Haven't done a PLAN in a while:

• Get the Handlebars; I am in pursuit of some but if anyone has any B123aas for sale that they can post to UK...
  
• Chainring; Having just rested the cranks on the BB it is clear that black chainring is the way to go, so really looking for a black Dura Ace 7600 or TBH some other Japanese black ones.
  
• Pedals; Am thinking of getting the MKS Sylvan track pedals off Hubjub but if anything comes around on here.Not really too bothered, really want the black caging.
  
• Chain; Get a black Izumi off HubJub.
  -Wheels; Mavic E rims and Dura ace 7600 Hubs.
  
  
  
  
  

what really is the going price for B123aas now. My LBS were asking for £90 which seems extortionate. Thought back in the day they crested at £60.