General Disc Radness (formerly disc wheel valuation thread)

Nice! expectations exceeded :)

I guess this raises the question of where to get old school hed stickers....

I had some printed by @mariofuckinghantous - he's probably still got my file you can use.

If you decide to do modern graphics they are real cheap from hed uk

Mh, looks like I got some thinking to do. Thanks a lot for the input guys! I'll contact mario, if I had a file it might be fairly easy to cut the graphics diy style.

Definitely a HED. I think they were early 90s. Good discs back in the day, dead noisy and the bearings are easy to replace!

The disc I recently purchased arrived yesterday and I wanted to ask whether it's normal that it has a casette hub on one side and a thread on for a freewheel on the other side. Is it a replacement hub or did hed discs come with a set-up like this?

2 Attachments

Is that not a freewheel?

Maybe it's a particularly old one; I've not seen one with both.

Drive side is a shimano 7 speed casette, (currently) non drive side takes a freewheel. Interestingly the casette body only takes 7 speed casettes so it seems to be from the time whn they switched from freewheels to casettes.
ed. the former owner mentioned sth that he used the disc on his track bike but wheen he showed me a picture of the disc installed it was on a tt bike. Maybe he converted it so as to make it usable for both disciplines

That's some weirdo shit right there

Indeed, it also implies that the disc is rather narrow. Does that mean it can still be a hed?

Looks like the hed I have, some weird transitioning setup. That are pretty narrow. The one I have is currently built as a front for giggles

Wonder if you could replace the freehub...

Can't argue with that price! Tub or clincher?

Tub, but it had a continental sprinter with plenty of life left on it so gluing tubs is something I can deal with in the future. Might be possible to replace the freehub body. I already installed it and am too lazy to take it out and check but I'll have a look next time I switch wheels :)

If it's native 7 speed HG, there's a possibility it could have a Dura-Ace FH-740X freehub, in which case you'll need to find an 8 speed version... Will stop there because that means finding a hub, making a tool from an old socket, swapping freehub shells, and if that doesn't work, finding TLFH10, which is like rocking horse s--t (although Tester mentioned in the past that Condor have one in their workshop), before swapping the entire freehub body.
Hopefully though, it's more likely to have the most common Shimano freehub interface, which featured on the 600 Ultegra 640_ groupset that, by the looks of things, you already have. If this is the case you should be able to simply bolt on a modern freehub body and respace.
In many ways (particularly if it has that common freehub interface), your disc is MUCH more desirable than the more common Hed 8 speed discs (which usually have that dreaded DA-7403 freehub body). Freehub permitting, it might be possible to run every perceivable fixed to 10 speed drivetrain option, with a single wheel. 11 speed might also work, but the axle would probably require respacing so the wheel would be offset by a few mm.

Crazy how much prices have gone up on these things in the last 10 years. I got my current one of the forum for like €50, I used to have an ARAYA honeycomb flat side disk i bought for $30 ( still wish i had that thing, was heavy as hell but deathproof)

I seem to have just bought the world's rattiest obscure Russian disc. He had it up as a Fluidisc and it kind of looked like one, but it was so cheap it really didn't matter. So it's a solid foam core, UD carbon or Kevlar laid up in panels like a Fluidisc. About 3 plies thick and it's really heavy. Faint outline of a logo which is oval in shape a bit like a long FIR sticker. Not elliptical like a Fluidisc sticker. Proper flywheel, this thing does NOT want to lean over for corners once it's moving!

1 Attachment

Juna
... Although I'm sure they were hollow.

thats the pedalroom one? the consensus was juna as said before

My Juna trispoke is hollow, I wish it wasn't. I'd swap weight for stiffness.

Cheers, thanks for all that information :) finding a hub and making a tool sounds like too much of a hassle atm. What exactly distinguishes a the common shimano freehub interface and the dura ace fh 740x? For the time being, I'll leave it as it is. With the current setup, the freehub fits a 7 speed casette but there's still quite a gap between the casette and the disc itself. That means the casette is mounted pretty far to the right side with the smallest cog even touching the chainstay. The Casette which is on there is uniglide afaik, so i took it apart, dropped the largest cog and, used the remaining six and added a spacer for the lockring to grip so the smalles cog wouldn't rub against the chainstay. Now it's only 6 speed in the back but I don't really mind since I wasn't using the largest cog anyway with two chainrings in the front. As far as I can tell, it's a normal freehub interface (normal 7 speed) so that rules out the possibility of using it up to 10speed that is as long as I leave the hub like this.

p.s. judging from the clicking noise it's not a DA freehub body. I got a DA 7403(?) hub on another roadbike and it sounds very different if that is anything to go by.

Ebay from Poland, but it might be the same one. Got a link to the Pedalroom ad?

I've had a bit more of a closer look and it makes a crinkling sound if I try and flex it - so it's probably foil filled. Sounds very dead if I tap it near the rim and the tone changes about 30-40mm in. The foam must just be up near the rim. It's very, very stiff! Like riding a dinner plate even with only about 80psi in that 25mm tub!

Will also confirm its not a fluidisk

I have a Juna trispoke that I filled with spray foam. Now it's really heavy :-(
Added 300+g. Better off hollow IMO.
Let me know if you want to buy it (haha!) because it might motivate me to finish the job...

TLDR Version:
I 3D-printed a plastic elliptical valve hole insert, to be epoxied-in, after removing some of the material around the hole that had become a bit 'flappy' over time/use by previous owners. Filled it with foam as a reinforcement failsafe repair job after it started to rattle slightly, after I rode it over an unmarked speed bump on a private road, while wearing sunglasses (hence invisible), while delivering newsletters for my local cycling lobbyists. I believe an internal piece of kevlar laminate must have been slightly detached, causing it to rattle, hence adding the foam to prevent it detaching further. I started the job 2 years ago (so at least by now the foam has fully cured) but it's still waiting for the insert to be attached and the wheel to be refinished, as I gave up carefully sanding off the crappy black aerosol paint job a previous owner had applied.