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• #27
Nice shop you got there
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• #28
Saw these hubs in the flesh and they look shiny fresh. Amazing transformation.
Fantastic build.
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• #29
Cheers guys should have the whole thing complete by next tuesday (so much for taking it slow)
Next things to arrive are hubs/spokes so wheels will be done by the weekend and hopefully the whole build will come up to less than £550!And yeah @user54165 its Cycle PS in Battersea should pop in and pay Marek and Ian a vist!
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• #30
Polish the hubs polish the hubs polish the hubs
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• #31
'kin hell. Those were my hubs some time ago, then they were on the tartan Geekhouse that was on here before that. They've certainly been round the houses a bit, but I don't think they've ever looked that good, clearly bombproof!
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• #32
OKOKOK! but what should i use!? I'm definitely gonna lacquer them though and ahh sweet @bmx_fred nice to get to know a bit of their history and they really are, glad you approve of the refurb!
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• #33
That's looking amazing mate! Love those Profile hubs and great job stripping them. You wouldn't be looking a set of profile cranks in chrome by any chance ;)? Tom
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• #34
Thanks it was well worth the effort I think and unfortunately not man, I'm getting a set of 75s for this build
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• #35
Nice frame, quite similiar geometry to my Lee Cooper Racelite (still need to see it on wheels though), if you usually fit on a 58 cm frame that seatpost is going too be way to short? hubs are shiny, shiny!
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• #36
@Robb0 best job would be to use a rotary tool (Dremel) and some polishing bits (to get into all those CNC nooks and crannies. Failing that, use some Autosol and a rag and maybe some cotton buds, and further failing that, grab a rag and some Brasso and see how that turns out. May as well give Brasso a go before you do anything else, to see if you like, because results from the other two options will be better (Autosol) and better again (Dremel + polishing compound).
If you want a mega high shine, leave it unlacquered and polish it periodically. Lacquer will dull it. I suppose, however, that the finish would be more robust with a lacquer, so weigh up durability vs. aesthetics. -
• #37
I'll get to it on friday once I've finished my uni project Lukas!
Parts Update:
Nitto Risers arrived
Picked up a Concor Saddle off Alialias
Been gifted a Dura Ace hidden bolt stem which is a bit temperamental after some one fiddled with it when they shouldn't but still got it to work!
Collected Sugino 75 170mm polished cranks from Markairsy1 today
And TB14 black 32h rims arrived at Cycle PS today too!
Last thing to get is spokes which should be here in the next couple of days so this weekend is gonna be pretty exiting and the whole thing should be up and running!
5 Attachments
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• #38
That stem...
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• #39
yeah, how does work?
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• #40
cockpit looks sick. What do you have in mind tape/grip wise?
Please replicate the following.
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• #41
Insert Allen key: http://i48.tinypic.com/sqz5.jpg
Lovely stem indeed! Any possible slammage in the future?
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• #42
Those hubs don't look as if they were mechanically polished when new, just machining marks, so your going to need something pretty course to start with, and for about the first hour of polishing they will look worse (your going to be removing the ridges from machine process). Only then move to something finer like autosol and the shine will come up nice.
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• #43
The stem will be slammed once built just didn't want to scratch it before I knew how slammed @Tijs
As for the cockpit Kerin grips on risers isn't my cup of tea @HHC, reminds me as a bmxer of the awful fashion of running ODI Longneck XLs all the way to the cross bar and grips should stop where the bar starts to curve on risers in my opinion. So I think I'm gonna go with ANML Edwin grips since this is supposed to be a functional bike and this is my favourite grip to BMX with. I know most people are gonna hate that but this bike really does need to be comfy haha!
If I'm honest @BrickMan I really don't want to get rid of the machining marks as I like the industrial feel of it so I'll probably just autosol what I've got -
• #44
my experience with this is that polished machine marks are super hard to keep shiny. due to the open surface that the marks leave that white alu oxydation will occur much faster.
a completely smoothed surface will stay shiny much longer especially if treated with a bit of car wax.
ime, m2p.
good luck with the awesome project! -
• #45
You could still get rid of the big flared bit on those grips...
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• #46
Dude! Cant wait to see the kitchen bike finished! You're coming down and building wheels yourself, right?
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• #47
So the bike is now finished (sort of)
I built it up with the dura ace stem and seat post but as expected the post was far too short and the stem wouldn't grip properly even with a shim so currently using generic post and stem until I source something nice. Here are the dura ace build photos though and I will update this post once I get some nice replacements.
Parts:
Kitchen Frame/Fork
Tange Headset
Campagnolo BB
Sugino 75 170mm Cranks
Sram 48t Chainring (This will be replaced with an Arn when my bank balance improves)
Profile Hubs Raw 32h
Black H+Son TB14 Rims (3x laced with straight gauge stainless spokes)
Nitto Risers/Cult x Vans Grips
Dura Ace Stem/Seatpost (photos only)
San Marco Concor Saddle
Generic Black BMX Pedals with Hold Fast Straps
Gator Hardshell Tyres 25mm
3 Attachments
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• #48
Oh and the saddle angle was literally just so I could ride it home with such a short seat post, its level now I promise!
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• #49
this is rad
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• #50
love this frame! hows the fit? put in many miles yet?
Sub'd. This is going to be the bollocks.