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• #277
Oh yeah, how did I forget you jorj? Sticky stuff....
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• #278
Hot glue. As in the stuff out of a glue gun that you use at high school. No joke.
It gives a good temporary hold, and is easily removed from both surfaces with panel wipe.Also, if you give me the dims of your bar end shifters, I can probably turn them for you on one of the CNC lathes at work (depending on the work load next week).
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• #279
Sticky stuff....
EVA hot-melt glue? Not sure if your Di2 components could withstand the temperature needed to remelt it, lowest softening temperature I can find quickly is 81°C for 3M 3792LM. Your problem is that you have a relatively tall and thin-walled hollow cylinder of adhesive sandwiched between two impermeable materials, so anything relying on solvent de-bonding is going to be a PITA
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• #280
Without wishing to piss on your fire (again), what are the custom shifter pods achieving which the Shimano ones aren't?
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• #281
give me the dims of your bar end shifters
Looks like he has just tried to add a plain 22mm extended shank to my design
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• #282
I regularly bond SLA printed parts together for test rigs using hot melt. SLA warps at 40 degrees. It come out well hot (many burn stories to tell), but cools very quickly.
Just throwing ideas out there anyways... There is prolly something available that is much more suited to your needs (and neater to apply) -
• #283
Yes, the heat load from bonding isn't going to be an issue. It's the remelting to get them to unstick which might toast things.
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• #284
You don't need to re heat to de bond, just a tiny bit of panel wipe (lighter fluid) instantly breaks the bond.
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• #286
With a hypodermic syringe . You literally need a the smallest amount, and it will soak into the smallest gap/but joint. Quite easy to apply fairly accurately.
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• #287
Make the tolerances very close, then freeze the plug to install/use pipe freeze to remove?
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• #288
Or use a glue-gun, as Hoops would seem to know what he's talking about.
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• #289
No radius cutter in my box, no money to buy one, and no time to make one.
The hardinge does however have a natty little system that lets me bolt a template onto it, so I think that may be the best bet. That or get rob to cnc it on his computer powered turner, but that does seem a bit like giving in. And I will also get monsterous lathe enve.
And yes, mines the same as testers, just much longer. #bragging
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• #290
Double sided tape FTW
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• #291
I'm not using the shim who ones as:
A. I'm brassic
B: spending money on a butchered, obsolete group set seems silly.
C: They are fugly
D: Why not? The loom is already in a million pieces, might as well make it a million and one. -
• #292
A. I'm brassic
I always think of cabbage when people spell boracic like that.
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• #293
Cockernees carnt spel mayte
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• #294
making a set rad cutting tool is pretty easy. assumng the part you're turning is ally?... It's not like your tool needs to be made out of tungsten or something hardcore like that! Does the part even need to be ally?
If you turned it out of a nice hard (or actually soft, but hard enough for your needs) plastic like PVC you could put the rad on by hand pretty easily, and just paint it in whatever colour you want.... -
• #295
I have some lumps of tooling steel, so I have the option of cutting that into a nice radius also. Many options, all slightly time consuming....
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• #296
turned it out of a nice hard plastic like PVC
Acetal is probably the right material if you decide to go plastic, and it's cheaply and easily available, e.g. http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/Acetal_Rod_22mm_dia_x_1000mm__Black_-37112-p
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• #297
or you could bung one of these on:
plastic curtain rod end.
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• #298
plastic curtain rod end
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• #299
Unfortunately the diameter of that one's not right and it would just fall out.
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• #300
it's a common problem
This is where numerical control is a boon :-) You can make a radius turner relatively easily if your lathe isn't already equipped with one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tbvOb-tTNyc