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• #4777
Were you based? Feel like borrowing my mullet wheelset? 30mm internal!
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• #4778
2.6 on 35mm internal is pretty good. I ran 3" knards on 35mm external for a while and it was about passable, but far from ideal.
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• #4779
Haha thanks but I’m way up in Scotland.
I have both 650b and 29er wheelsets in the garage, neither are wide ‘plus’ size rims though but I at least have the option to experiment before getting some wider rims.
I imagine though that a 2.8” 650b plus tyre must be very close if not the same diameter as a 29er plus wheel?
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• #4780
Thanks, I run ‘normal’ 2.6” tyres on 30mm internal rims on my other mtb.
I found that wide wtb rims can be bought quite cheap so I think that’s what I’ll go for. I just can’t be arsed to build them. -
• #4781
Yeah. I got some i45 toughs for cheap and have the on a Krampus I never ride. 2.8s look good on them though!
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• #4782
Mine are a measely 25mm internal width (Enve M70), and have been fine with 3.0 tyres. Probably not 'perfect', granted, but I haven't ever had wider rims to compare against. Besides, the wheelset is too nice not to use.
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• #4783
This rim chat is making me feel better about the rear wheel/tyre that I couldn't get to seal with a Spesh tyre and is still losing pressure with an Argotal. It's an i35 rim and 2.6" tyres by the way.
That's on my Honzo which I've not taken any decent photos of yet.
Here's a couple of photos of my LTS. The tensioner still allows for a bit of chain slap. Not sure if shortening the chain and repositioning the tensioner would help with that but think I'm going to crack on with trying to build a bb concentric pivot frame anyway. Did briefly think bout doing a URT design, I think bb concentric pivots have almost as many negative points as URTs so...?
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• #4784
It is. After years of fucking around on stuff that wasn't mine but I could freely destroy, I'd settle on way wider rims if I was running 3". I'd start at 40mm internal at least. 30mm will pinch that shit.
Build thread, and let the interwebz arguing begin! -
• #4785
Wait....What, the fuckedy fuck am I looking at here??? I've not been keeping up with your build threads here but wut? I sort of recognise the rear end, but that front end is way too slack for it.
What the hell are the lowers on that fork (revelations?)
This is wild dude? Can you change the geometry of the shock?
Vandal made bars? That sweep is looooovely; almost Cinelli priest like -
• #4786
Starting point was a steel GT LTS500o. I chopped the front off and built it the new longer, slacker one. I also steepened the seat angle and fucked about with the top of the seatstays and lower shock mount in order to decrease the bb drop and provide room for the 2.4" tyre. It's proper mullet, 29" front, 26" rear.
Fork is a custom painted Pike. Well, it was sold on ebay as a Pike but the serial number comes back as a Revelation. It has more travel and better damping than a Rev would have though. That said, it's started leaking from the damper side so I have some parts on the way to rebuild it.
Edit: Yeah, bars are made by me too. And yeah, the black 'chips' are meant to be reversable to change the shock geo. I've not tried them the other way. I think (originally) this way is more travel, the other way is less. I'm not sure that the spring would clear the rebuilt mount if I were to try them the other way around.
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• #4787
Just going to hide in here while the mtb thread goes completely to shit
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• #4788
Fucking loveliness as usual. Well considered and looks like a riot to throw about.
I’m getting back the niner after loaning it out and the. Debating selling it. Weirdly enough, I’m sort of looking forward to ride it during winter more so than summer!
@BareNecessities Ben ignoring that thread a while. I’m predicting either Neil has something new, there’s a compression or wheel size debate, or e-bike hate.
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• #4789
smart move.
2009 GT Peace 9er single speed has just appeared near me for sale. Do I need it? no. tempted as I have all the parts? yes.
Anyone ridden one?
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• #4790
I've not ridden one, but I always wanted one. I don't think you can really go wrong with a rigid 29er with classic geo.
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• #4791
don't think you can really go wrong with … classic geo.
Easy now!
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• #4792
this is entirely your fault.
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• #4793
Is the DS chainstay ok in the dimple? I hope so; a lot of potential in that right there.
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• #4794
Previous reply did send so i try again. there isn’t a dimple - there is some paint scuff and then clear tape, if we are looking at the same thing?
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• #4795
Ah yeah I hadn't zoomed in, but can see the cleartape now. Looking forward to the build thread / finished build.
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• #4796
parts bin throw some parts at it is the current plan! i just have to decide if i reuse some parts off a currently built bike…
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• #4797
Mock up one. Front wheel will be swapped to match rear, rear tyre will be swapped out once i find one. Brakes to go on (and be bled). probably add some hollow tech cranks…and looks like I might be able to get a saddle operated dropper for it.
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• #4798
Splendid
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• #4799
Minor progress (no photos) today but it got me thinking. Thoughts on dingle speed in the forum hive mind?
I have: 30t chainring, 11t cog, 16t cog, deore xt crankset from 2012
I reckon with a 26t inner, should have the ability to have trail & commute gearing. Or I just ride everywhere nice and slowly on 30/16.
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• #4800
So obviously still needs a different rear tyre. Brakes need attention and ideally black spacers for the bars. But it’s sort of rideable.
Need to address some of the rust spots before they worsen and the frame has some quirks - there were clearly drop out screws that have rusted in, but the tab is inboard so catches the cassette lock ring - clearly a dedicated single speed hub would be better.
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30mm is fine for 3" but won't be ideal with a Duro imo.
Vittoria Cannoli TNT is a good option for 30mm. Think Maxxis are making the Minion DHF in 3" again as well.