Stack and Reach: Why It's Your Best Friends

Yeah the NFE gives a pretty upright position and still have abt 40mm of spacers.. that will probs halve this w/e though. Tweaking now I've put a few hundred on it. But the geo of that is perfect for what it does... I am looking at a second had Tarmac for the road.

Good stuff - confirmed my thoughts.

Trying to work out my new bouncey bike build. Need to make sure the front end doesnt get too high.

So i worked out the stack of my old 29er.

With external headset I make it 610mm.

Commencal claim my Meta SL will have a stack of 551mm.

That cant be right?

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What's the stack without the headset?

600mm I reckon.

Small longboard 29er.

http://www.cyclesnack.com/2012/01/spot-longboard-9-geometry.html

Pumped the numbers into....

http://www.bikegeo.net/

Small-handed riders!!! On my current road/tourer, riding with my hands on the top of the hoods is fine, but I don't have sufficient reach to pull the brakes effectively!

I'm doing a big ride up to the arctic circle through Norway in July, and it will involve A LOT of hills, so I want to make sure I can brake with confidence.. I've currently got Tiagra shifter, but they are rather clunky - can anyone recommend anything suitable for smaller hands, and compatible with my current set up (Shimano Tiagra 2 on the front, 10 on the back)?

Thanks for the help, and sorry if this is the wrong thread!

Di2 and hydraulic brakes

hydro brakes need very little force to operate

di2 does not require much force to operate and you can install remote buttons too

Adjust the reach, the newer Shimano levers right down to Tiagra 4700 is much more suitable for smaller hand.

and compatible with my current set up (two on the front, 8 on the back)

Di2 and hydraulic brakes

Uh ...

Lastly, two more thing, did you fit the shim for the old Tiagra shifters?

Also, fresh new cable and housing, plus Swissstop Blue pads will improved the feel and power that take less effort to modulate.

If you're building up a new bike,there's a Tektro junior road levers paired with bar end shifters mean it'll be much more suitable for smaller hand.

I have short fingers. I also live in norway.

I find the adjustment on higher end shimano levers to be be good.

Ultimately you want your bars high enough that using the drops for longer periods is comfy. Some of the roads are pretty poor. So you want to be descending in the drops.

......bring a goof packable rain jacket

So. I want to buy an All City. My race bike has stack and reach of 525x380 with a 540mm TT - I have a few spacers and a 90mm stem. I want a Macho Man for commuting. The 52 is 563x378 with a 550mm TT. The shop I'm talking to are saying this will be too large and I should size down. Happy to ride with a 90mm stem. Thoughts?

You can keep the 90mm (the diff is mere 2mm) and get rid of spacers. All city stack might not account for external headset stack. So add stack height of your chosen headset.

Forget about all other dimensions, just stack and reach can determine your reach/bar position.

Yeah. That's what I thought. But this shop keeps nattering on about the TT length, and I'm trying to preach forum wisdom that S&R are king but have now entered the realm of self-doubt.

That'll teach you for not buying mine ;)

Tell them to fuck off

Shop are old fashion, top tube length were the original way of finding out what sizes you need.

Follow the S&R, and you'll be able to get a precise fit with little to no adjusting.

Looking at a new frame for long distance rides and possibly some gravel stuff. Will be Ti with carbon fork and discs. Will have clip on aerobars for really long rides, too.

The geo chart is at the bottom.

I currently ride a 60cm supersix evo HM (2015) with a slight setback post, 110mm stem and about 3cm worth of spacers.

here's the geo for that

I'm 6ft5 and apparently I have a positive ape index (long arms) along with long legs but a relatively short torso.

How does the geo of the new bike look for me in size 60? I can customize the frame if I like so if anything leaps out as not quite right, lemme know.

Ideally I'd like a bikefit for this stuff but £££

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Simple, do you want it shorter/higher etc. then go for the one with the correspond measuremnt (such as for shorter, the 58cm provide a higher handlebar position and a shorter reach).

Measure the following on your current bike (assuming you are happy with the fit):
1) Distance (i.e. the setback) from middle of B/B to front of saddle
2) Distance (i.e. the drop) from top of saddle to top of bars
3) Distance (i.e. a variety of 'reach') from tip of saddle to top of bars or back of STI lever hoods

You should then be able to map those numbers across onto your new geometry with a bit of simple maths.

Okay, I get you.

Generally, does that geo chart look like a decent endurance/comfortable bike? It's got taller headtube, shorter reach than my current bike (racy/aggresive) so I think it should work.

Generally, does that geo chart look like a decent endurance/comfortable bike?

yep

The new bike have a slacker head angle which indicated an endurance geometry, with the additional benefit of a shorter and higher set up, if you need more help, go on this site and put the measurement on it and it should visualised what your bike look like;

http://www.bikegeo.net/

Smashing, thanks dudes.

Slacker means angled more towards the rear of the bike?

Head angle is slacker, create slower steering = more stability (on top of longer wheelbase).

For some people it's a put off but doesn't stop people from having a lots of fun on it (like the carbon Cannondale Synapse)