First build

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  • I've got a couple of handlebars you can have free, standard low riser MTB ones, that look good cut down a bit to taste
    ,or some nice chrome drop bars
    (you pay the post and will send em)

    Happily take you up on that. I'll PM you.

  • A dawes galaxy I'm doing up for my girlfriend. Im 99% certain this would have had 27" wheels originally, but is currently with 700c.

    The canti's don't sit perfectly but they still work.

    I took a photo of my headset removal 'tool' as well:

  • Hmm. Now I'm starting to worry that what I've bought isn't what it's made out to be as the lug work on the frame is nowhere near as detailed on mine.

    Anyhow it's still nice and light and something to start with.

    I'll post some pictures later.

  • I certainly remember using a similar tool for headset removal back in the day. Think I remember it being my dad's idea :-))

    I'll give it a go.

  • You'll only need those to remove the frame cups: do you need to?

    Once you've got the forks out, get a ballpoint pen and run it around all the surfaces the bearings run: if they're pitted and need replacing you will feel it.

    If they're smooth then there's no need to remove them. Good practice to replace the bearings regardless: they're cheap and you don't know how well they've been maintained.

  • Does yours look like this?

  • surely with cantis/ canti bosses if the frame was for 27" then the brake pads wouldn't sit on the rim of a 700c wheel. Or is difference in size between 27" and 700c too small for it to matter?

    pics of the frame please!

  • Thats my one! Made for 700 wheels..
    http://www.hilarystone.com/frameset13.html
    I was certAin it was 27".
    Oh well.

    Does yours look like this?

  • I was wrong, sorry!

    surely with cantis/ canti bosses if the frame was for 27" then the brake pads wouldn't sit on the rim of a 700c wheel. Or is difference in size between 27" and 700c too small for it to matter?

    pics of the frame please!

  • dont be sorry! i was just curious because the clearances on your frame are really quite big, making me think it was 27". guess its just for fenders and masssssssive tyres :)

  • Heres a pic, it was the massive clearance on the fork that got me confused

    Back to qwerty's bike now..

    How about a picture?

  • Will post some later

  • So convinced it's not a Dawes now but hey ho.

    Anyhow; the forks are now off and next on the list is to remove the bottom braket (once I work out how).

    I've been quoted £48 to powder coat the frame and forks either in a single colour or in two different colours. Which I think is quite good and given the time to remove rust quite worthwhile.

    Just need to work out if I'm keeping the braze ons for brakes or not?!

    Is it possible to keep the braze ons but still use long reach brakes to fit 700c wheels?

    Pictures to follow.

  • If the bike was made for cantilevers you will struggle to fit a long drop caliper. I think if you posted a picture people would be able to offer better advice.

    Also just because the legwork is different doesn't mean it isn't a dawes.

  • stick a wheel on it and measure from centre of brake hole to centre of rim. that is if its drilled. My bob jackson doesn't have a drilled bridge so canti only on the back.

  • Picked up some cheep wheels this evening. Pictures of everything I have for this build tomorrow once I work out how to put then on the site.

  • As you'll see it's in need of some work:

    http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h352/gazzajohnston/bike/49A9DBD5-F253-4835-9BF9-ACD3A6AB17FD.jpg
    http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h352/gazzajohnston/bike/A44D6F15-E56D-4D24-921B-D3EA0B0A2334.jpg
    http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h352/gazzajohnston/bike/D2F50724-BF6B-4CA5-A394-369A7F4AC905.jpg
    http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h352/gazzajohnston/bike/2A6F358E-1BF3-4E8D-A8CE-FD4B21AE8825.jpg
    http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h352/gazzajohnston/bike/5B7EE04D-D9DC-4959-862A-A3B6DBD5FD38.jpg
    http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h352/gazzajohnston/bike/240E9CCA-E8F3-47E1-A1B1-0DDE4EC01527.jpg

    Currently sitting in my garage like this while I think about what's next on my to do list:
    http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h352/gazzajohnston/bike/3F1B49DC-4813-412F-8F66-90858ECF8E91.jpg

    Awaiting brakes arriving.

    Trying to work out if I need to straighten the drop outs as when I initially offered up the rear wheel it was a bit off centre?! Not too bad when I took more time over it today though.

    Next on my list is to pick up a quill stem, seatpost and bars. Which I can hopefully pick up relatively cheaply.

    Thoroughly enjoying this build :-))

  • if its the rear dropouts you can just slide one side of the axel further forward or back in the dropout. I've had frames with slightly off alignment and that sorts it ok.

  • Hmmm...

    Is "Dawes" engraved into the seatstay endcaps?

    Are the dropouts marked "Dawes"?

    I think you might be right and this isn't a Galaxy.

  • if its the rear dropouts you can just slide one side of the axel further forward or back in the dropout. I've had frames with slightly off alignment and that sorts it ok.

    I think when I slotted in the wheel earlier today that's what I've done.

  • if its the rear dropouts you can just slide one side of the axel further forward or back in the dropout. I've had frames with slightly off alignment and that sorts it ok.

    Hmmm...

    Is "Dawes" engraved into the seatstay endcaps?

    Are the dropouts marked "Dawes"?

    I think you might be right and this isn't a Galaxy.

    Nothing on the seatstay endcaps but I haven't checked the dropouts.

    Not too concerned if it's not a Dawes as it's still a really lightweight frame (first where I've picked / held it upright - rear drop outs upwards - with one hand). Would be good to know though.

  • Nice little thread. I recently helped restore my dad's Super Galaxy with Campy groups and some sensible wheels. Rides like a dream! Please disregard the white hoods, I'm replacing those and rewrapping the bars..

    http://i.imgur.com/23XFNrp.jpg

  • Also going to run this Miche crankset:

    http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h352/gazzajohnston/bike/83F13246-3BEE-44C0-8B2E-CA8A67D7A413.jpg

    Aim is to run on the inside smaller of the two rings but to leave the larger one in place. Unless that is anyone has a reason why this won't work?

  • Also do I need a single freewheel rear sprocket or can I just strip down the rear rings and leave one (with spacers and lock nut)?

  • Brakes have arrived:

    http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h352/gazzajohnston/bike/87C6B1D9-1EEF-47A1-8FFA-306102F5504F.png

    So now I need to make sure everything fits ie will the brakes work if I leave the cantilever braze ons in place.

    Bars and stem should be here next week.

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First build

Posted by Avatar for qwerty69 @qwerty69

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