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• #802
link?
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• #804
Looking for a 31.8 unfortunately, but thank you anyway
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• #806
Are rivnuts a Tester approved™ method of adding bottle cages to a steel (Reynolds 520 or 531, so suitable porky I'd say?) frame. And if so, would you recommend something like Loctite or a Huntsman epoxy between the nut and the frame? And if not, what else?
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• #807
if not, what?
The proper method is brazing.
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• #808
And when looking for a cheaper / more accessible method? Straight off to the bodge thread with cable ties and inner tubes?
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• #809
£8.50 on amazon, so went with that
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• #810
Adding glue does nothing to help the nutserts hold, if they are installed correctly.
The image is showiing stainless steel nutserts into stainless steel.
Bikes usually have aluminium ones as they are easier to set.
I have nutserts, setting tool and a 7.1mm drill if you fancy doing it yourself? 7.1 mm is the size for M5 nutserts. (rivnuts is an americanism). -
• #811
Realise this may be a faux pas as there is a bar tape thread, however wondered if there's a Tester approved tape?
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• #813
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• #814
Different MDCC, those colours are Mid Devon. You're not the first person to be confused.
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• #815
My apologies!
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• #816
The Sunrace MS8 Wide-Ratio Cassette comes in two finishes, black and metal.
What if any difference does this finish make to durability or performance? -
• #817
Not sure how appropriate
Highly inappropriate. Everything after the "?" in your URL is unnecessary. The URL might go to a 404 error when the product runs out, is discontinued, or CRC just decides it's not worth offering. Strangers from the future will then have no idea what you're asking, just as I can only guess now unless I bother to click on the link and try to decode your enquiry. Put your question in plain text.
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• #818
Apologies edited :-)
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• #819
What if any difference does this finish make
Depends what finish they use. Bright silver on cassettes is usually nickel plating, which is used for corrosion protection and might offer lower friction than the base metal. The ED black is also a corrosion inhibitor, but it's softer than nickel plate. In practice, on a heavily used bike neither will make much more than a cosmetic difference.
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• #820
a nickel plating might provide a higher hardness and thus provide a slightly better resistance to wear but I agree with you on the fact that on a heavily used bike this would not make much of a difference
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• #821
@mdcc_tester I need to replace the bearings in my HED3. The current bearings are marked as “rollway 6001 RSR”.
Looking on bike websites, there seem to be lots of 6001.rs, or 6001.2rs available, and these all seem to have the same dimensions (12x28x8). Do these different codes indicate important differences between these bearings and which bearings do I need? I might even be tempted by tarty ceramics if I can figure it out.
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• #822
6001 is the size, the letters will show the kind of seal, rs being rubber seal, 2rs being one on each side, other seal letters are available.
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• #823
Cheers. On vince’s bearing thread someone was saying that rsr is the same as 2rs and a load of other suffixes (2RSH, 2RS1, LLU, DDU, 2RSR, EE) but they sounded pretty equivocal.
Is there any way to find out if rsr is the same as 2rs, and does it matter?
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• #824
All the rubber type ones will be do the job, I remember enduro having a bit of information on their site about what the specifics of some of the seals are.
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• #825
I might even be tempted by tarty ceramics
Don't. Just get a reputable brand of steel bearings from a bearing factor, not a bike shop. I like SKF, but if you search my comment stream for SKF you'll find all the other decent brands mentioned. I'm actually using SKF E2 bearings in my race wheels for the marginal lolz. No seal drag and low friction cages, but it's tenths of a Watt at cycling speeds and you wouldn't want to use them routinely in wet conditions.
thanks Tester, found one for £3 so thats now on its way.