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• #177
I'd never considered bolt on cogs before but that's very interesting. More accurate chainline adjustment and more secure than a threaded cog. Appreciate the advice.
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• #178
The first post from this thread needs an update. Can someone nicely formulate all Tester's most recent recommendations so I can copy at paste it in?
I am become the new G2AG. God save the Queen, hang the bastards, etc.
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• #179
n/a
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• #180
Tester approved carbon seatpost available in 27.2mm with layback? And not too expensive?
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• #181
I don't approve of not-too-expensive carbon. Why do you think you need carbon?
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• #182
Where might I get a Novatec bolt-on cog hub as above in the UK?
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• #183
what about a USE sumo pave post, is it any good? I've been thinking about getting rid of it so I can have a carbon free bike.
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• #184
I don't approve of not-too-expensive carbon. Why do you think you need carbon?
I thought its towpath-dampening properties were superior to alloy posts.
Are layback posts more forgiving than inline?
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• #185
If you want comfort, sit on the bike in the right place and get bigger tyres. There is a slight advantage in selecting the post which places its clamp closest to the middle of the saddle rails when your saddle is set in the correct fore/aft position for your body.
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• #186
Where might I get a Novatec bolt-on cog hub as above in the UK?
Google says ask your neighbourhood Polski Sklep to help if you don't read enough Polish to order from one of the various Polish online bike shops which list them.
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• #187
If you want comfort, sit on the bike in the right place.
Milton Keynes?
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• #188
Not sure what their towpaths are like. Round my way, the gravel by the Jubilee and Thames rivers is smoother than the tarmac on the local highways.
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• #189
Tester, please help: I want to put some modern sram chainrings on some non-sram cranks, the sram rings are designed to work with their hiddenbolt cranks; that moves the pin round that stops the chain getting stuck in between the crank and big ring. So it looks like these:
Other than the pin moving meaning so there's nothing to catch a chain drop, which can be combatted by setting up you're high limit up properly, is there any other potential problems?
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• #190
You're on your own with that one, I can think of several ways it could go wrong, but SRAM's documentation is poor, so I can't confirm which of the possible problems will actually manifest itself.
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• #191
Mavic open sport or h son tb14 for commute/occasional bad terrain riding?
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• #192
One is half the price of the other, if that helps in the decision making process...
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• #193
TB14s probably not recommended due to them being overpriced hipster tat
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• #194
One is half the price of the other, if that helps in the decision making process...
unfortunately not here, both cost roughly the same.
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• #195
One is half the price of the other, if that helps in the decision making process...
Unfortunately both of them cost roughly the same here.
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• #196
I built last wheelset with tb14s and very happy with them. 23mm width with 25c tyres=comfortable.
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• #197
Mavic open sport or h son tb14 for commute/occasional bad terrain riding?
Rigida Grizzly
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• #198
in 700c?
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• #199
in 700c?
yes
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• #200
I was asking whether the rigida (ryde?) grizzly is 700c
Not a Phil lock ring, it's the wrong size for Novatec hubs. The Novatec hubs come with their own functional but not particularly pretty ISO lock ring. The Token one is nicer looking and still probably stronger than the hub threads.
Since 'street' use doesn't require sprockets smaller than 16T, I'd go for a 6-bolt arrangement as the first choice, e.g. Novatec D166SBT. Very popular in Poland, for some reason. You can still have your Phil sprocket with this.
http://novatecusa.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/RH-D166SBT_large.jpg
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