Burls Ti CX Di2

Brooks>>>>>

yeah hes right
a brooks would look like that dude who did a big meeja build few years ago,
waaank on this frame
er, whassis name?.

http://www.theguardian.com/books/2010/jul/10/all-about-bike-metier-review
that one

Managed to find a similarish example to what I was thinking of, tho it may have put me off. I think the isp/lack of any logo's will make it a little better than this. I have a brooks saddle I can test on it in any case

^Contact points that resemble faeces.

http://www.grade9.fr/cache/multithumb_thumbs/b_1024_800_0_10_images_photosProduits_G9RD09_velo-titane-Grade9-Di2-Myticcarbon.jpg

This. Except with brown bar tape.
The saddle will become brown eventually, as it ages.

di2 cross bike?
Are you racing?
How many rear mechs do you think you'll trash in the first year?

btw why canti and not disc? If you are going gears anyway there's no hassle with sliders/rockers.

di2 cross bike?
Are you racing?
How many rear mechs do you think you'll trash in the first year?

I've raced for a few years now and I've yet to kill a derailleur.

But then again, Laner killed my (ex) derailleur on his first race, so perhaps I just got lucky...

I've been racing for 6 seasons now and only killed one mech, a few weeks ago, and that was when I was training.

I'll be racing Di2 next season.

Check you out

ISP topper slight problem...I was hoping to add one of these 'toppers' to give it a nice sleek look at the top

and NOT the normal, clunkier topper that fits on the outside (the cleanest of which looks like this:)

However, owing to the bike being titanium (with thicker walls), the internal measurements are narrower than the (internal) topper (first pic) will allow (it's 30.6mm, as measured with calipers, as opposed to a crabon frame that would normally have a wider opening. Ooo er).

So...I can either simply buy the ISP topper in the second pic.

OR...

Is it super mental to just get a normal seatpost (that measures 30.6mm), chop a lot of it off, then either
a) Insert it and load up on JB weld to keep it in place
b) Insert it and drill a (3ish mm) hole through the frame (just below the tip of the ti seat mast), and seatpost and bolt it in place (will be 2 holes, in one side and out the other)
c) Create a 'notch' in the rim of the ti frame, then have a bolt in the seatpost on one side (to control the side to side sway, with the up and down motion held in by friction

I know it's a little bit silly, but on a scale of 1 to 10...??

How much material would you need to remove from the wedge-topper before it would fit? That's where I'd consider a bodge. If any.

PMP do an internal 'topper' in a range of sizes. I can measure mine for you once I'm back in the UK later this week.

Can't see the internal ones but even their external ones are more aesthetically pleasing...

http://www.pmpbike.net/pmp-bike-en/?product_cat=seatpost-adapters

How much material would you need to remove from the wedge-topper before it would fit? That's where I'd consider a bodge. If any.

Well it's stated outside dimensions are 31.6, and my seatpost is 30.6, so around half a mm all round. Aside from getting busy with a sander or a file, not sure how it could be done (though it is, I suppose, doable).

Can't see the internal ones but even their external ones are more aesthetically pleasing...

http://www.pmpbike.net/pmp-bike-en/?product_cat=seatpost-adapters

I quite like (as in, it's the best of a bad (external) bunch) the one I had posted above, and will fit in with the plainish black look of the other componentry, though again, it's not ideal.

With the sliding wedge design, and it only being half a mm difference, might it just fit anyway? Worth ordering it to try? If not you could send it back?

possibly not... if the material is solid though sanding it down shouldn't pose too much danger?

With the sliding wedge design, and it only being half a mm difference, might it just fit anyway? Worth ordering it to try? If not you could send it back?

possibly not... if the material is solid though sanding it down shouldn't pose too much danger?

I've tried putting it in and it's a no go (without sanding etc)

Engine frame works will modify a thomson post to be used as a wedge style one. Worth dropping them a line. Don't drill holes in anything.

Engine frame works??

http://www.engincycles.com/

or DYI it:
cut your seatpost at an angle a bit below intended insertion point.
drill 6mm hole in the seatpost top along post shft center axis.
install star nut or headset expander in bottom part of the post and attach it with a sufficient length bolt through the top hole.
makes sense, yeah?

PMP stuff is very nice, I had one of those ISP toppers a few months back and it was top notch for that kind of thing. Far better than the shitty lightweight (a la KCNC, etc) ones anyway (in both finish and aesthetic IMO).

or DYI it:
cut your seatpost at an angle a bit below intended insertion point.
drill 6mm hole in the seatpost top along post shft center axis.
install star nut or headset expander in bottom part of the post and attach it with a sufficient length bolt through the top hole.
makes sense, yeah?

^This sounds very promising. If I understand it correctly, it relies on the top of the seatpost being stong enough to take the full force of the clamping bit (as in normal use there's little pressure/force on that side/axis), but a nice bit of lateral thinking all the same!

So I understand a bit better - If using a star nut or headset expander, why would the botton of the seatpost need to be cut at an angle??

Have you asked Burls what they think?