LooOOOook 464 Dreadnought Tank

You have mentionned chainring bolts spacers. I take it you haven't found black, double allen key, single ring ones?

how did the anodiser not get the bearing seat anodised? i presume this was done on purpose but i can't work out how/didn't know it was possible

Plugs.

You have mentionned chainring bolts spacers. I take it you haven't found black, double allen key, single ring ones?

I think the Truvativ ones would fit, but nobody ever has them in stock.

Plugs.

This.

Looked like rubber laboratory bung from the quick look I had when the bloke in overalls was checking that they had the right size. Masking bearing seats and threaded holes should be run of the mill for any metal finishing business. The external threads are fine with thin soft anodising, but if you were getting anything hard anodised you'd either mask them or get the threads cut with an allowance for the thicker coating.

thought it would be such a more complex explanation, cheers

I think the Truvativ ones would fit, but nobody ever has them in stock.

I bought some from an Amazon seller recently, these.

No good with the spacers?

Would work, but I already haz the Aluminium ones + ID spacers

Seems like your post on converting the planet x novatech hub axles disappeared? Process should be fairly simple - cut, thread, bolts?

I posted the drawing in Scilly Suffolk's fixed TT project thread, more details here when they are actually done.

I'll keep my eyes open, thanks!

http://www.lfgss.com/post4158486-127.html

is M6 bolt ons enough for track use on the rear?

Yes, as long as you have chain tugs to react the chain tension. The axle extensions sit in the tugs, so there is no shear load on the M6 screws.

ahh, got you, i thought about the bolt on versions of the novatecs but the m6 bolts put me off when all others use m8

So, the equasion is :

axle is cut to the outer width of the drop out (-1 mm?) + threaded to accept m6 bolts + fire eye chain tugs + titanium/stainless steel bolt > cheap, reliable, practical and aesthetical solution

Missing anything?

That's it, except you can make the axle go to the outer width over the chain tugs -1mm. 138mm road axles seem to work well with typical track end thickness on 120mm OLN frames.

Sounds good, just realized the chain tugs are 17 Euro per piece instead for a set (feeling cheap about it since the hub costs that much;). I guess I'll just cut down the original axle that comes with the hub. I was going to wait with more questions, but since the discussion is opened, any tip where to supply rounded massive head hex bolts/washers?

I use countersunk screws with these washers

1 Attachment

bling, bling! cheers

If you're doing more than one bike, stainless steel ones from my favourite screw shop would be cheaper

I'm now using these screws, which I think are an upgrade from the previously recommended 10.9 grade CrMo Allen-key ones, but you do have to remember to add a T30 Torx key to your on board tool kit.

any reason not to use them instead of the stock goldtec ones without a chaintug? Never experienced wheel slippage with the stock ones, they did however crack and goldtec charges 16 quid for a pair.

Goldtec rears are M8, the ProBolt M8 washers are 25mm for countersunk or 26mm for socket cap, you'd need to check whether something that big would look right on the outside of your track ends.

Accuscrews M8 countersunk washers are 22mm, which should be OK with any sensible track end, but the MOQ makes them £14.46, so no real saving over OEM.

Ah, looked at the SS washers at accuscrew earlier, didn't notice the MOQ..cheers! one more question, is it possible/recommended to tap an internal thread in a front road qr axle? thinking about a cheap and low profile (everything besides atomic22 looks fairly shit) safety skewer, a countersunk washer with security bolts of some sort should do the trick, right?

I've tapped plenty of standard steel front axles, and I'm not dead yet. Obviously not good to mix with disc brakes, but then neither are QR skewers.