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- sumo - sumo - type 2
- sumo - Jamie McP - type 4
- sumo - Jamie Mcp - type 4
- Mihajaru - Jaru - type 4
- Scilly Suffolk - Scilly | Suffolk - Type 2
- sumo - sumo - type 2
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Just wondered if mine had been sent too Mr T?
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No, still waiting for the laser etched ones as they ran out of pre-anodised blanks due to a couple of errors on the engraving.
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Has mine been posted? Can't remember which type I ordered.
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Not yet, was holding on until the slam that stem is done so I won't have to charge you postage for your free swap :-)
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Oh nice one, cheers.
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Yes, on Saturday morning.
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Yes, delivered on Monday according to the Post Office, check your post room.
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The screws are 7075T6, not cheese. I've never had any issue with these screws (from ProBolt) when using decent tools and appropriate tightening torque. You shouldn't need to apply more than about 2Nm to the headset preload bolt when adjusting, and I usually tighten mine to 4-5Nm for extra security after securing the stem clamp and have never had this issue. It looks like some combination of insufficient tool insertion, over-torque or use of a ball-ended driver has exceeded the strength of the bolt.
Because the bolt is aluminium (7075T6 is strong as aluminium goes, but still only about 1/2 of the strength of 8.8 steel or A4 stainless steel fasteners) and uses a smaller driver than the cap-head used on other headset preload bolts, it is imperative that you use good quality tools and a decent torque wrench to avoid a repetition of this failure.
I'll drop a replacement screw in next time I'm in the Chancery Lane area, try not to break it.
It seems as though I've managed to do a Vince and strip the head of the bolt too...
I torqued it up (not too tight) but when I was trying to unscrew and remove earlier the bolt just melted around my Allen key.
What's the best way to remove it? At the moment I've glued an old Allen key in there but if that fails what is my next option?
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drive in a slightly oversize torx bit with a hammer.
We have a winner.
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when I was trying to unscrew and remove earlier the bolt just melted around my Allen key
Was it a ball ended Allen key?
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Any chance of just getting hold of one of the security bolts?
There are no security bolts. I need to have a chat with the people who make stainless steel screws black to see if it's going to be economically viable to get some pin-Torx ones done alongside the main run Torx screws, if it is then a limited quantity of them might become available.
Sumo
Shroomite
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ak
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About
For Sale: Stem cap with integrated spacer
Posted by
@gbj_tester
Time to start a list for Batch 3.
List format:
Use multiple order lines even if you want repeats of the same design.
I'm investigating an alternative fixing screw, so it's likely that this batch will be supplied with 30mm long A4 stainless steel Torx screws in place of the 35mm long anodised 7075T6 Allen key type. Extra strength (particularly in the tool socket) for an extra couple of grams.
Once there are enough orders to go ahead, I'll take payment
Types:
1 = engraved
2 = engraved then anodised
3 = anodised then engraved
4 = anodised then laser etched
If you want something other than simple lettering (or you're a typography tart who wants simple lettering done just so), create your artwork based on the attached template. Bear in mind that the template is at 1200dpi, but the rotary engraving process uses a cutter about 0.5mm wide, so any features smaller than about 20 pixels wide are likely to fail. The etching laser will actually create features down to 1 pixel wide at 1200dpi, but as that's about a quarter of a hair's breadth you won't be able to see them, and there's a conversion process between your raster image design and the final output which will reduce the resolution anyway. TL;DR - don't get too fine with your design.