Waterford R33

Confession; never heard of Waterford before.

Wouldn't change a thing on that except for deeeep crabon. Theres always room for that. ;)

A lovely bike, enjoy!

Parlee Carbon Goodness (7g) arrived today, replace the Shimano jobby (35g)

Was quite hard to install and the holes didn't align properly when clamped so I had to shave some of the carbon off one of the holes with a knife.

I had a "Parlee-a-like" one of those, it cracked eventually as it couldn't cope with the torque that the front mech put on it when changing rings.

Keep the Shimano one just in case.

I had to shave some of the carbon off one of the holes with a knife.

further weight reduction. doing it right!

I had a "Parlee-a-like" one of those, it cracked eventually as it couldn't cope with the torque that the front mech put on it when changing rings.

Hopefully the Parlee one does a better job. It should last for the kind of money they expect.

I was using Di2 as well, which puts a much larger strain on the clamp.

A simple test would be to check if the body of the mech is deflecting during a shift- if it is then the clamp is not strong enough, if not then it is, if that makes sense.

The look a like I had appeared to be a radius pultrusion so all the fibres are aligned along the length. The Parlee one I have is a moulded piece part with unidirectional fibres. The difference in manufacture method should give a stronger part but at a higher cost. Saying that though Di2 and EPS would probably still damage it as they 'ram' the gears into the next ring .. I see Campagnolo offers a specific clamp to brace against the frame for EPS systems.

I'm only running mechanical, do you reckon it would go through the same stresses as Di2 or EPS?

Parlee Carbon Goodness (12g) arrived today, replace the Shimano jobby (35g)

Was quite hard to install and the holes didn't align properly when clamped so I had to shave some of the carbon off one of the holes with a knife.

Sincerely hope you didn't pay the $100 for it?! Because exotic make an identical one for about 10g for about £10 - £15

I didn't. I think I paid $60 odd. I couldn't find an exotic one with 28.6mm clamp size.

I can only offer anecdotal advice .. but I have used a Parlee one on a hybrid red (Dura Ace, Tiso front mech and know Red) mechanical group for getting on three years with out issue. Unless there is a defect in the layup I'd suggest it will be fine.

The Exotic is indentical in apperance only. I am not 100% sure on the manufacturing method, but the one I had appeared to be a glass fibre radius pultrusion with a carbon beauty layer.

^Thanks for that.

New brakes arrived today.

However I encountered a problem with the rear brake on installation. I am not sure whether it's just me being an idiot though.

I found that the brake won't align properly so there is a big gap on the right hand side and zero gap on the left hand side. I tried moving the brake itself, it will move but will always go back into this position. Any ideas?

Poor self-centring is a common flaw of the single-pivot caliper design. Campagnolo offer a dual-pivot rear option, but the single-pivot is the standard item because it's lighter (and they consider that you don't need as much power on the rear brake). Not sure if there's something you can do to fix it, I haven't run modern Campag single pivots myself.

It's a single pivot brake so a little trickier then the front. Two questions .. When you installed did you use a 13mm spanner on the lock nut behind the arms to keep the brake centralised while screwing the Torx frame mounting bolt in? Is the cable outer the correct length and not 'pushing' the brake to one side .. what happens when the cable is completely released does it re-centralise.

I always have to use a cone spanner on the brake side nut to straighten rear Campag single pivot callipers whilst tightening them up.

I find it helps if you loosen off the brake frame mounting bolt completely, hold the brake in the correct position, then tighten up fully, that tends to correct things. Either that, or, once the brake is tightened up, use an allen key in the bolt on the front of the brake and move the brake by turning that bolt clockwise.

also http://www.campagnolo.com/repository/documenti/en/Skeleton_Brakes_ENG_03_2013.pdf

I had this problem too... LBS used a cone spanner to tighten the nut between the frame and the calliper.. if that makes sense.

Ok I when I tried to fiddle with it just now, I loosened the mounting bolt and that fixed it. Could it be that I overtightened this bolt?

Sounds to me like you've effectively twisted the brake back round to a central point using the mounting bolt. If you use a 13mm spanner on the lock nut you can hold the calipier in this position while you re-tighten the mounting bolt. Doesn't sound like the cable is pushing the calipier over.

The new brakes replace these (-130g):

Edge stem arrived too (-37g)

Replacing this:

Weight stuff :

Quick releases 131g to 43g

Cassette 209g to 183g

Chainset 685g to 646g

Bars 252g to 198g

Cups 49g to 45g

Chain 273g to 233g

Brakeset 411g to 281g

Stem 158g to 121g

Front derailleur clamp 35g to 7g

Total 446g loss

Once you finally build everything up, you'll be disappointed to realised it doesn't feel as light as it sounded.

I know but it's fun isn't it?

Good God Ed you do write some bollocks.