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• #777
Cheers.
The drawings I posted were from Coreldraw. I have a blagged copy but I’m sure there’s something free out there that’ll do much the same job.
With my first frame I drew something up in the free bikecad then imported that into Corel and laid lines over the top to work out the angles. This time I just drew it straight in Corel.
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• #778
with the guarantee that you won’t be allowed to balls it up.
Haha, I should stop letting myself balls things up!
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• #779
Started the brazing on the next frame but then ran out of oxygen so gave the coaster a service. Chamfered the leading edge of the pads but forgot to take a photo. Oops.
Got a week off as of 1st June so fingers crossed I can get it all done during that week.
I’ve entered SSUK (end of aug) as it’s taking place pretty near by and I am off that weekend, need to figure out if they’ll let me ride a coaster only bike. The fork I’m using has a disc tab so I can always put a brake on if need be.
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• #780
Using cycle design LFB flux paste this time. I’d used sifflux and boric acid powder before.
The paste goes on so nicely in comparison.
It’s definitely more expensive than the boric acid, probably more than the sifflux too but for the volume of building I’m doing, I think it’s worth it.
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• #781
I took the fork off the Holdsworth and put it on the frame I built this week. Its a bit shorter so doesn’t require as long a drop brake caliper and it tightens the bike up a bit which I like.
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• #782
looks great!
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• #784
Fantastic. It’s amazing seeing so many of us giving it a go at the moment.
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• #785
Bike looks so much fun to ride!
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• #786
Nice going, just caught up with this.
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• #787
Slight design alteration, added the c2c measurements for the main tubes and realised the down tube needs to be half a millimetre longer.
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• #789
Getting antsy because I can’t get oxygen till tomorrow.
I’ve always felt like those Nitto x Fairweather bullmoose bars I have were a weird shape. Like the ends of the handlebar section should have been pointed up more.
So...
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• #790
File a couple mitres, add a motorcycle drag bar and...
800mm wide bullmoose incoming.
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• #791
You didn't?
You bloody did!!!
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• #792
I did!
I was going to just punt them after I made new ones but then I thought, "Nitto have made a nice job of this rear section, I could just steal that".
Fully intend to use the handlebar portion at some point too.
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• #793
Fully intend to use the handlebar portion at some point too.
Clean it up and braze it into a normal stem rather than the double on a bull moose so you’ve got another one piece cockpit but with a wider single stem
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• #794
How does that make the stem wider?
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• #795
More girthy
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• #796
Sorry I still don't follow. You're brazing a bar onto a stem, so how does that make the stem any different to how it was (other than having a bar permanently attached)? I may have missed something.
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• #797
When a stem likes a handlebar very much...
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• #798
Sorry maybe I wasn’t clear. He’s cut a one piece into two piece and has used the stem piece with a new bar.
What I mean was for him to use the old Nitto bar section which is currently not in use, with a new steel fabricated stem which is a single rather than double tube. But wider. -
• #799
Did another pass of fillet on the seattube/bb joint this morning and tried to thin out the fillet if started to lay on the yoke.
I was gonna do quite a fat fillet on it but a guy on IG suggested it’d look better with less fillet and when I looked at the Konga feed they were all done with quite small fillets. It’s still not the neatest, I’ll just hide this behind the chainset and hopefully do a tidier job on the other side.
Using Cycle Design Low Fuming Bronze flux now and it’s a pleasure to use and cleans off so easily. If I’d gotten Sifflux or boric acid as toasted as I got this it’d be an absolute ball ache. Sifflux in particular would still be stuck in glass sharp little nuggets even after overnight soaking, the LFB stuff was totally gone after about a 2 hour soak.
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• #800
Great work. Looking forward to watching this progress.
Love the stem, it's a strong look, would love to have a go at one. Really encouraging to see you cracking on with another frame too. Is it Rattlecad you're using for the drawings? I'm stuck with having to work out all the mitre angles by hand from the info you can get from the free version of BikeCad, as £300 for the Pro version is a bit rich for me.