Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Posted on
Page
of 335
First Prev
/ 335
Next
  • But yeah the chain thing is still confusing, so they run on either 11sp or with Cues, and vice versa.

    So it's an 11sp chain that's called a cues chain and then not sold at a premium

  • Got an issue with these brakes.

    Brakes are Gusset Chute. Gusset is the in house brand of a UK distributor (ISON). Pretty sure they're a copy of some older Tektros. Not sure which model though.

    The issue I have is the rod of the piston in the lever isn't pushing when I pull the lever. Can't figure out which bit I may be missing or what has failed.

    If I push the piston rod (independently of the lever) the brakes work fine.
    Same issue on both brakes.

    I think the bit that sits on the rod should be internally threaded but the threading has stripped. But I can't seem to find spares.

    Anyone know what to do? Maybe which model Tektro they're based on.

    Thanks.


    2 Attachments

    • IMG_20250114_102553.jpg
    • IMG20250114102303.jpg
  • Question to those running front mech made in 21st century…and please no answers ‘ 1 x’

    Purchased a larger cassette because I am getting older , up to 36 from 28.
    However when in big big combo, the chain rubs on the front mech, but not sides , but the top because of chain height angle to big ring. If I move mech up to clear this it is so high that shifting is crap. Mech is old campag veloce friction shift, that until now has been flawless and buttery smooth.

    In the new world of big cassettes and grx etc, does thus still happen? Running 46/30, and 11 36, but was 11 28.

    Any help appreciated, except 1 x !

  • Sounds like your mech is not designed for modern sized cassettes. Maybe try a 32 as an interim if you don't want to change the FD?

  • If it only happens in big big, don’t sweat it. How often is that actually going to be an issue?

  • I run 46/30 with a 40T or 42T cassette. I use Shimano Di2 though. shrugs

    I don't understand how it's "rubbing on the top" but moving up the derailer isn't the solution. You only need it to -just- clear the chain, like 1mm gap under the cage to the teeth.

  • It'll fit the frame. It won't fit the fork if it's a straight 1 1/8" fork rather than a 1 1/8" - 1 1/2" tapered fork.

  • Rings are a triple converted to 30 46 double so 46 chain line good for all at back , 30 ring bail out. Just looked at my hybrid other bike and the Shimano triple mech has got way more height to top of cage, so maybe veloce front geometry not designed to have very big cassettes.
    All my shit is just cobbled together but normally quite smoothly (in my head) so maybe need to buy a new front mech. Grx front work ok friction anyone?

  • Have to move so high that it just will not shift even being friction and just sending it.

  • straight 44mm head tube. And a 1 1/8th hylix carbon fork

    You need ZS44 both ends (i.e. ZS44/28.6 upper and ZS44/30 lower), or an adapter crown to fit a 1⅛" steerer in an EC44/40 lower if you want the extra stack of an external cup lower bearing, or the rare chimera EC44/30 lower assembly.

  • when in big big combo, the chain rubs on the front mech

    Well, don't do that then.

    old campag veloce

    You mean the one they designed when Campag didn't make a sprocket bigger than 29T? I think you can see where I'm going with this...

  • I’ve not seen these brakes before let alone a Tektro version of it, I’m a little doubtful it’s a rebranded Tektro.

    Only Tektro one that look similar is the Auriga.


    1 Attachment

    • IMG_2747.jpeg
  • Yeah I just couldn't remember what they were based on.

    I think its possible they were based on Avid Juicy. Being as they're DOT. Dunno if Tektro ever did any DOT brakes. That being said they aren't exactly the same.

    Unfortunately we don't have any spares to scavenge from.

    Plus you can rotate the master cylinder similar to how the Tektros you posted do.

    I doubt gusset would've designed their own brakes.

    I'll probably just give up on them and keep the calipers and hoses as spares.


    1 Attachment

    • avid_jcy3_08_m.jpg
  • Get Shimano, cheap as chips, reliable and not much fuss.

  • They are.

    It's not for me though and budget won't stretch to new ones. Also we tend to buy Clarks because they're cheaper on trade and just as good.

    It'll probably get whatever cable discs we have in the spares bin. As that's free.

  • It still bothers me that I can't just fix these though. So much waste over a tiny failed or missing part.

  • Cost-Benefit analysis, if you wanna tinker about, Tektro sells refresher kits for their levers blade and pivot which cost just as much as a full lever, I concur it looks close enough to work but you'll never know until you try.

    Give ISON a call and ask if you are really into fixing it.

    Again, Cost-Benefit Analysis, by the time you've spent researching and cost for the spares, it'll be more than a MT200 on trade.

    I'm all for fixing stuff but not when it takes too much time.

  • Less than £13?

  • Pardon?

  • I've finally snagged some hydraulic shifters after months of keeping an eye out for some I could afford.
    Any suggestions for guides to setting them up with the calipers that have been sat in my parts box for ages?

    GRX BR-RX400 calipers and 2x11 GRX ST-R600 shifters.
    I have the bike tools you'd expect but the only hydraulic specific tool I have is a bleed kit (which I've only used once whilst supervised by a grown up).
    What might I need to add? I'm not sure my cable cutters are up to cutting hydraulic hoses cleanly, unless there's a tip/hack that I should be aware. Can I get away with crushing the hose slightly or does it need to be a super clean cut?

    Finally, is there any noticeable difference between compatible hoses or is there something in particular I should be looking at? I can get Shimano stuff at trade prices but happy to look at other brands if needs be.

    Thanks in advance gang.

  • Chainline!

    I theoretically have a 73mm bb shell going back to a 142 space disc brake frame which mandates a 51mm chainline. I want to run a square taper bb with a SPA narrow wide crankset. What bb length do I need to achieve the 51mm chainline?!?!?

  • Stick to Shimano. If your cutters do a bad job use a Stanley, if you've got the little yellow hose clamp jaws you can do pretty much everything with a vice or mole grips and something twatty, hammer or a flat bit of a heavy tool to knock in a barb, it's all pretty standard tools for occasional work other than the bleed kit. You can buy stuff to make it quicker and easier but it's not necessarily.

  • I theoretically have a 73mm bb shell going back to a 142 space disc brake frame which mandates a 51mm chainline. I want to run a square taper bb with a SPA narrow wide crankset. What bb length do I need to achieve the 51mm chainline?!?!?

    Zicral rings are CNC machined 7075 T6 in a polished black finish with laser engraving to complement the cranks.
    Recommended bottom bracket: First Components DX-30 110mm

    Do you know what chainline they're aiming for with the 110mm? You should be able to adjust to 51mm from that once you know.

  • Cheers! Really helpful.

  • Post a reply
    • Bold
    • Italics
    • Link
    • Image
    • List
    • Quote
    • code
    • Preview
About

Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Posted by Avatar for OmarLittle @OmarLittle

Actions